I Donated thefultonhow Posted October 29, 2012 I Donated Share Posted October 29, 2012 Guys, stop trying to say, "I had a check engine light and this was my problem." It's not the CEL itself that matters, it's the code associated with it. P0011 and P0021 are very different from P0130 or P0302 or whatever else. It's the DTC (Pxxxx) that matters! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brich1414 Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 If the timing belt has not been changed as well as spark plugs that should probably be the first priority as these need to be done regardless. The intake cam could have easily been thrown off by a bad belt if it has slipped. To me that seems what the code is telling you. May be wrong but even if you replace the timing belt and pulleys and/or spark plugs and its not them you just knocked out some maintenance and should prevent future problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted November 1, 2012 I Donated Share Posted November 1, 2012 If the timing belt has not been changed as well as spark plugs that should probably be the first priority as these need to be done regardless. The intake cam could have easily been thrown off by a bad belt if it has slipped. To me that seems what the code is telling you. May be wrong but even if you replace the timing belt and pulleys and/or spark plugs and its not them you just knocked out some maintenance and should prevent future problems. Who are you replying to? None of the codes posted recently in the thread indicate a problem with the position of the cam gears relative to the belt. Besides, if a timing belt fails, it is likely to fail catastrophically, not just to slip, in which case the engine would be toast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brich1414 Posted November 2, 2012 Share Posted November 2, 2012 Hey whatever I was just searching through the topics and started reading, thought I might help with some advice because the forum has been a big help for me in the past and I wanted to do the same. Didn't check the date on the post. Sorry that was 4 seconds of your life checking this post maybe you could have used that time to find other posts you could correct and ridicule. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brich1414 Posted November 2, 2012 Share Posted November 2, 2012 P0021 SUBARU - Camshaft Position 'A' Timing Over Advance or Performance Bank 2 Symptoms - Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light) - Lack/Loss of power - Engine noise - Engine rough idle Possible causes - Dirty engine oil - Low engine oil level - Timing belt misalign <------------------ - Faulty AVCS solenoid This is what I was replying to and if the timing belt has teeth worn down on it the cam pulleys could have become out of time especially on the driver side. But like I said earlier this may not be the solution but if you haven't done either the belt or the plugs after 110,000 it's worth it to fix them and maybe this may fix your problem with the CEL in the process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted November 3, 2012 I Donated Share Posted November 3, 2012 This is what I was replying to and if the timing belt has teeth worn down on it the cam pulleys could have become out of time especially on the driver side. But like I said earlier this may not be the solution but if you haven't done either the belt or the plugs after 110,000 it's worth it to fix them and maybe this may fix your problem with the CEL in the process. The timing belt is probably not simply going to misalign itself. As I said, the most likely scenario for timing belt failure is catastrophic failure (i.e. the timing belt breaks). It's very rare that the ribs on the belt wear down before the belt breaks, as the stress points in the rubber usually occur at the thinnest point in the belt. Misalignment usually only occurs when a new belt is improperly installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mkshuteme.com Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 hey guys, my cruise control light started flashing every once and a while and wont go off until i turn my cruise on and off. has anyone had this happen? theres no cel. just figured id ask before making a thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted July 12, 2013 I Donated Share Posted July 12, 2013 hey guys, my cruise control light started flashing every once and a while and wont go off until i turn my cruise on and off. has anyone had this happen? theres no cel. just figured id ask before making a thread. That is very interesting. The only time I've seen that happen is when I clear a CEL on the fly and keep driving without restarting the car. I don't know how it would happen if you don't do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 That is very interesting. The only time I've seen that happen is when I clear a CEL on the fly and keep driving without restarting the car. I don't know how it would happen if you don't do that. Actually, I've reset a CEL on the fly as well once. IIRC, I did not have to restart the car to get the CC light to stop blinking. I just had to press the CC on/off button twice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted July 12, 2013 I Donated Share Posted July 12, 2013 Actually, I've reset a CEL on the fly as well once. IIRC, I did not have to restart the car to get the CC light to stop blinking. I just had to press the CC on/off button twice. That is what he said he did. Hence why I didn't mention it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 Well, technically he only mentioned issues with the CC light and did not mention having to reset a CEL at the same time. I was just saying that when I reset a CEL while driving, CC LED was still blinking afterwards and pressing the on/off stopped the pattern. His issue may be related to the ABS sensor having some problems if the CC LED is blinking on its own and there's no CEL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted July 12, 2013 I Donated Share Posted July 12, 2013 Well, technically he only mentioned issues with the CC light and did not mention having to reset a CEL at the same time. Sigh. That's why I said it was weird and the only time I'd seen it was when I reset a CEL while driving... His issue may be related to the ABS sensor having some problems if the CC LED is blinking on its own and there's no CEL. Wouldn't there be a CEL if an ABS sensor was malfunctioning, though? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 Wouldn't there be a CEL if an ABS sensor was malfunctioning, though? Not necessarily from what I understand. There have been people on the forum who changed their hubs with non OEM parts and had problems later on with their CC. ABS reports to the TCU. You might have had a chassis code. They do not trigger like a CEL. I have posted a way to "check" chassis codes from the dash in my vendor thread. easton is correct. speed sensor is in wheel bearing. this reports to abs and tcu. cruise, vdc, speedo, can all be effected. I have seen a bad wheel bearing sensor stop a 4EAT from even running. In any case, I am not saying that's mkshute@me.com problem. But it could be related.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burkett375 Posted July 12, 2013 Share Posted July 12, 2013 75k miles. 2008 Leggy 2.5i. I've got a CEL and flashing cruise light. I changed spark, spark wires, and battery. The light would occasionally come on after the sparks change. It all started to be consistent after the battery change. I put a can of seafoam in, changed oil, and air filter as well between spark and batt change. I've tried auto zone reader, my buddy's bluetooth OBD reader w/ the torque app, and the internal reader (headlight and trip odometer trick) and cannot get any codes to show. Is my ECU dead? I'm thinking either fuel pump or coil packs. Would anything throw the CEL light and not give a code? Thanks for your help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wader Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 I found this topic on a search, and just to reinforce the idea that a Check Engine Light with flashing Cruise Control (in this case, for a 2005 2.5i Ltd Outback) requires a code check in order to help figure out what's happening, my particular situation turned out to be a catalytic converter going bad. Fortunately, my Subaru warranty was still in effect (i.e., I'm at 9 years and 82K miles) and it was fully covered by the dealer. - wader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charliet1 Posted August 31, 2014 Share Posted August 31, 2014 Hi I'm a new owner of 05 Legacy GT, towards the end of a long drive today 350 miles, the Check Engine Light came on and the Cruise Control light started flashing, the engine still pulls and rev's as it always has and sounds correct. Going to take it to a shop tomorrow morning if I can find one in Buffalo NY thats open. Any suggestions of where I can take it..?? Also any thoughts of what it could be as the engine still sounds good?? When I get the P code (as a lot of you have quoted on here I'll post it) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted September 1, 2014 Share Posted September 1, 2014 Hi I'm a new owner of 05 Legacy GT, towards the end of a long drive today 350 miles, the Check Engine Light came on and the Cruise Control light started flashing, the engine still pulls and rev's as it always has and sounds correct. Going to take it to a shop tomorrow morning if I can find one in Buffalo NY thats open. Any suggestions of where I can take it..?? Also any thoughts of what it could be as the engine still sounds good?? When I get the P code (as a lot of you have quoted on here I'll post it) Sorry, Charlie, but without knowing the specific code (of which, there are quite a few), we won't be able to help you much. Also, if you can't find an Autozone or someplace that will read your codes for free, you can read them yourself, with a little bit of effort. Reach under the carpet at the top of the passenger footwell (you'll have to pull the carpet back a bit) and you'll see two green single-wired connectors. (Also might have to root around for them -- it's OK, you won't hurt anything!) Connect them. Turn the key to Acc, and your check engine light should now blink in a sort of 'morse code' to give you the error code, which you can then Google and begin to find out what's wrong. Unplug the connectors when you're done, as I don't think it'll let you drive around in Test Mode - Or, since you're running OK, you can just wait until later next week to get it checked out. If your Check Engine light is FLASHING, however, DO NOT drive the car. That means whatever is wrong is super serious and if you are moving, you should pull over and shut down immediately. Let us know what you find out, but, put it in a different thread -- this one is for making fun of newbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burkett375 Posted September 1, 2014 Share Posted September 1, 2014 Mine ended up just being a fuse with a hairline crack...didn't notice it the first time I checked them all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 1, 2014 Share Posted September 1, 2014 Hi I'm a new owner of 05 Legacy GT, towards the end of a long drive today 350 miles, the Check Engine Light came on and the Cruise Control light started flashing, the engine still pulls and rev's as it always has and sounds correct. Going to take it to a shop tomorrow morning if I can find one in Buffalo NY thats open. Any suggestions of where I can take it..?? Also any thoughts of what it could be as the engine still sounds good?? When I get the P code (as a lot of you have quoted on here I'll post it) 05 in car code reader. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/CELcodereaderina05_zps012198f7.png 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charliet1 Posted September 6, 2014 Share Posted September 6, 2014 Okay so I drove it home, about 200 mile with the light still flashing no issues. I turned it on this morning to drive it to the shop and no flashing lights...?! It runs as great as ever, do I still need to take it into the shop?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itzed Posted September 7, 2014 Share Posted September 7, 2014 If it's not on now, and the car is running fine, then I would not take it to the shop and risk them trying to sell me something until you are more informed. However, it's quite possible it will come on again after a few cycles, be on the lookout for it. If it comes on again, and the car is still running fine, it could be a code coming from the second (post cat) oxygen sensor, which monitors the heat and performance of the cat itself, and does not affect the adjustment of the engine mapping parameters. In any case, you should get it read by either buying a scan tool, to taking it to an auto parts store and find out the code and what it means. Then post the code here, get some feedback, decide what to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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