NSFW Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 Good point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 torn inlet too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sachilles Posted November 9, 2011 Author Share Posted November 9, 2011 Worked on it this morning. Found that the blue t fitting wasn't connected as suggested above. Got it back together and the idle is smoother. Spraying carb cleaner in that area doesn't raise the idle any longer. So that is encouraging. Below is the learning view from the morning prior to finding the leak. I reset the ecu, did a log from my driveway up the road and back. Then did another learning view. Hopefully this means I've got the vac leak solved, what do you think? Again, thank you very much for the help..romraiderlog_20111109_105104.csv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 looks better in the logs, was the engine fully warmed up? do an idle log with the engine fully warmed in nuetral or park, hvac system off. drive it around some more, it's good to hear it idles better. vac leaks can cause lean conditions and lean conditions can cause knocking, which could explain your original LV that was pulling timing everywhere because of knock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sachilles Posted November 9, 2011 Author Share Posted November 9, 2011 It was warmed up. I'll do another log this afternoon(idle in park, hvac off). Idle is lower while stopped and in gear, going to park raises the idle a bit. Overall a smooth idle. It hasn't been smooth at all the last couple of days, so it is a noticeable change. Yesterday, if you'd come to stop in gear, it would seem like it was going to die. Or if in park you gave a little gas, when you let off, the idle would stumble and come close to stalling. After the "fix" it doesn't do that any longer. Can't help but wonder when those two leaks started in this process Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted November 10, 2011 Share Posted November 10, 2011 Give it a few days without an ECU reset, and look at the AF Learning values. If they're within a few percent of zero, then the leak almost certainly started after the tuning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sachilles Posted November 10, 2011 Author Share Posted November 10, 2011 Will do NSFW BMX had asked for a log at idle with hvac off and the car fully warmed up. It is attached below. Let it idle for a few minutes. Blipped the throttle twice, just to show how it recovers. Prior to fixing the vac leak, it would have nearly stalled after blipping the throttle. There are still small variations of rpm at idle, but not noticeable to my naked ear, and not inconsistent with the other two subarus in my driveway. Again thank you for the help AND patience.after vacuum line fix.csv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted November 10, 2011 Share Posted November 10, 2011 looks pretty good there. I think you're vac leak issues are gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sachilles Posted November 11, 2011 Author Share Posted November 11, 2011 a little frustrating. On the way to work, up a steep incline at about 40mph, car downshifted, fealt like it knocked hard once. CEL instantly came on. No other apparent problems(nothing at idle). Waiting for a free moment to get out and do a LV to get the code and find out what is going on now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 KABOOM! (j/k) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sachilles Posted November 11, 2011 Author Share Posted November 11, 2011 knock was probably the wrong term. My bet is it's a misfire.(and it better not be cyl #4). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sachilles Posted November 11, 2011 Author Share Posted November 11, 2011 Learning view attached. now what? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 oh you overboosted and hit fuel cut (the bucking feeling). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 you need a tune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 click reset ecu with the key on the on position, stay out of heavy boost till you get a tune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sachilles Posted November 11, 2011 Author Share Posted November 11, 2011 Just reading up on the code on nasioc. Temp was cold this morning, high 30's low 40's F. Perhaps "boost limit fuel cut"? Considering the previous vac leak, might it not have allowed enough boost pressure prior to this to have it happen? Combined with chilly temps, and the load and down shift on the hill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sachilles Posted November 11, 2011 Author Share Posted November 11, 2011 oh you overboosted and hit fuel cut (the bucking feeling). I must have been posting as you did. Thanks for confirming it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sachilles Posted November 11, 2011 Author Share Posted November 11, 2011 Did a reset. Left the mountain for lunch and did two logs. Second log is exactly the same circumstances, but temp is up by about two degrees(42f). Added some parameters to the log based on this thread. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/po244-and-other-tuning-related-issues-help-understand-happening-153338.html?highlight=overboost+fuel+cut Could not repeat the issue. romraiderlog_20111111_125506.csvromraiderlog_20111111_132234.csv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted November 11, 2011 Mega Users Share Posted November 11, 2011 Looks like you just really need to get your boost dialed in. Target boost around 12psi and mrp over 17psi. Add in a steep hill and cold weather and you will definitely overboost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sachilles Posted November 11, 2011 Author Share Posted November 11, 2011 For my general education. Target boost is alway 0 or above. MRP can be negative(vacuum). Target boost is the desired manifold pressure, and mrp is what it actually is. On a well tuned car: When not in vacuum is it normal for the MRP to exceed the target boost? Or is it more normal that target boost and mrp are close to identical when on the positive side? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted November 11, 2011 Mega Users Share Posted November 11, 2011 When in boost, you want mrp to match target boost. Target boost is what you want your boost to be. Mrp is what boost you actually have. Basically, you set your target boost, then mess with wastegate duty to get mrp to match target boost. There is more to it than that, but that's the basics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sachilles Posted November 11, 2011 Author Share Posted November 11, 2011 Thanks Seabass, that's kind of what I was thinking. It's always more complicated than the simple answer:lol:, but I get the point. Thank you. NSFW in a few different post I was searching on this topic suggested some log parameters. One that I couldn't seem to find was "initial wastegate duty cycle". I found Primary but not initial amongst the parameter lists. (05 lgt with 5eat). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted November 11, 2011 Mega Users Share Posted November 11, 2011 Initial and max wastegate duty cycle are some of the maps that you use to control the wastegate. Primary wastegate duty cycle is a parameter to log with to see what the wastegate is actually doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted November 12, 2011 Share Posted November 12, 2011 NSFW in a few different post I was searching on this topic suggested some log parameters. One that I couldn't seem to find was "initial wastegate duty cycle". I found Primary but not initial amongst the parameter lists. (05 lgt with 5eat). You are more observant than I am - I never noticed the difference. Go with primary. And now that you mention it, I'm not certain what the difference is. Primary might be initial + compensations (temperature, atmospheric pressure, etc) but I'm not sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sachilles Posted November 16, 2011 Author Share Posted November 16, 2011 Ok, so I'm at the end of engine break in time. Did a LV. Drove about 15 miles, then logged a third gear pull. Sadly I let up off the accelerator momentarily at around 5500 rpm. So there is a dip at that point of the log. This is on the "break in" tune. 50 degrees F Healthy enough to continue on for a tune?romraiderlog_20111115_181154.csv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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