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Mileage and sometimes general condition of body.

 

But if you have a lot of parts invested in the car it may be worth to buy it back and part it out - or rebuild it.

 

Get a body from a front damaged car and cut off the rear end and weld it on. Or make a pick-up. But you have to be sure that there aren't any damage to transmission parts then.

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Well, the fact of the matter is that the insurance companies start the price of your car at the lowest trade in value. Once you haggle them and show them receipts and evidence that they're dead wrong, the bump everything up to "dealer ready"
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Questions I have:

1. What state are you in? Is it a no-fault, contributory, or other state? If you don't know what this means I can find out.

2. Who is your insurance company and who insures the other driver?

3. How many miles are on your car?

4. Did they say anything about how they came up with the $7k? Are they deducting for prior damage or the aftermarket parts?

5. Do you still have the stock parts you can swap back onto the car?

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I the accident report cites the other guy at fault, you ought to be bitching at his insurance company for medical, rental, and estimates costs. The insurance companies don't make money by writing checks and assume people are dumb and have no will. If you spend enough time on the phone and not blow a blood vessel, typically, you will get what you want.
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finally back on here.

it has a bunch of miles, but a newish engine

i think mileage is like 140,000. the body is in excellent condition, (except for the ass end of course). ive looked at cars in my area (PA) and am seeing a lot in the high 9k-12k range. I was headed back to PA from an epic 10k mile post college roadtrip, i got rear-ended in Ohio, which as far as i know cited the other driver.

 

i kind of think i should buy it back and part out all the goodies,

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Since this happened in Ohio this will fall under their insurance regulations meaning it is a comparative negligence state. And if you were not found partially at fault, his insurance company will pay for your entire claim.

You should ideally be going through his company if they have accepted liability. And you have the option to go with them since you haven't started repairs to your car or accepted payment.

 

You may have an arbitration clause with your insurance company for the property damage meaning a lawyer won't be able to help. Also, most lawyers won't assist with property damage claims because there isn't enough money for them to make. And even if they did, you are only owed the value of the car, not punitive damages so the lawyer would likely take the price difference anyway and maybe more.

 

You can provide all the comps for your car to your adjuster, and if that doesn't get you anywhere, ask to talk to their manager. Managers are notorious for not wanting to deal with you and if you make a big enough stink, you will eventually get what you want.

If that doesn't work, you always have the option to switch to the other driver's company once they have accepted liability. As long as you haven't gotten a check and the car is somewhere it isn't accruing charges, you can switch. And if you don't like their offer either, you can switch back.

 

And finally, if you are injured you should not consider any money you get from that to make up for the damage. They are 100% separate transactions.

Good luck, it's a long process that can be a pain in the ass sometimes. Soon enough you'll be tooling around in your new car.

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You should listen to landark he gave me sound solid advice which helped me out GREATLY three months ago when I got rear ended.

 

My insurance company covers aftermarket parts NOT that I had any but if i did they would have factored that into the mix.

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get more money, fight fight fight. You don't have to accept their first, second or third offer. fight until your happy. The more time of theirs you take up, the more likely they are to settle with you.

 

100% their party's fault, sue if you don't get what you deserve. Oh, and go see a doctor now.

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I totaled my last car, a 1994 Volvo 850 Turbo Wagon, and State Farm paid me at least the KBB private party value, I think more. I know I considered it very fair.

 

You won't get full private party sell price for your car, maybe 65%...

 

Last time my car was totalled, I also got 7500 for a car that was worth 10k private party. Sry to hear the bad news, good luck with it.

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ok, they are totaling the car, one company said i could buy it back for 1900 the other said 3800, or they take the car and i can take the engine, if i take the engine i want the ecu since its tuned, what else do i need, its got an immobilizer i guess, so the whole ignition/key assembly?
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