lkailburn Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 ^Did you make sure that the wired pressure switch connection is back together solid on the top of the PS Pump? Yup checked it right before installing the pump :-/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doobaruGT Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 I changed out my PS pump yesterday and flushed my fluid. I must have air in the line though bc when I do my figure-8's, I lose my PS. It returns under mild turns. Is there an easy (or more involved) way to get the air out, or will the air eventually make it to the reservoir? I'm not losing any fluid since my last top off. I've read about bleeder systems and such but I'd rather not mess with it if it comes to that. I just don't have the time. Inspection is due this month and I still have to replace my leaking fuel elbow before I take it in again. Updated parts list since original part-out here. Original Full part-out of my LGT HERE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lkailburn Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 mine seems much better after a week or two of driving. smooth and quit(er). I still don't think this reman pump is that great but I guess what do you expect right. doobaru- I think you just need to keep driving, as long as you don't hear any horrific noises, belts are on correctly, and you're not leaking, probably just a lot of air. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doobaruGT Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 mine seems much better after a week or two of driving. smooth and quit(er). I still don't think this reman pump is that great but I guess what do you expect right. doobaru- I think you just need to keep driving, as long as you don't hear any horrific noises, belts are on correctly, and you're not leaking, probably just a lot of air. Yea you're right. It cleared up and drives like a champ again! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2 Updated parts list since original part-out here. Original Full part-out of my LGT HERE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 If your not leaking air to fully bleed out the air use Max's method. Go to a parking lot and do 8 figure eights steering lock to steering lock. Works like a charm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erama Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 Is there anyway you can make a video I'm sure it would help out a lot of people to see it visually rather then in words. Its straight forward but you really can't beat the detail in video instructions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doobaruGT Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 Is there anyway you can make a video I'm sure it would help out a lot of people to see it visually rather then in words. Its straight forward but you really can't beat the detail in video instructions If you can't loosen a belt, pop a return line, and turn a pulley, perhaps DIY mechanics is something to steer clear of...<- see what I did there? Ha! On a serious note, a video would be easy to follow, but the job really is straight forward. Any takers on the video? I just did mine or I would probably help out Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2 Updated parts list since original part-out here. Original Full part-out of my LGT HERE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Claw Posted June 3, 2014 Share Posted June 3, 2014 ^Thanks! So, just to illustrate this by using a picture, I pointed out the clamp that we should loosen: http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1589&pictureid=8075 Dammit, mine looks nothing like that. I have an 05 LGT too. The line you indicate there goes right into the PS reservoir, so there's no clamp to loosen up. If I undo the clamp closest to the reservoir, I expect it to drain right down in by the fender. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Claw Posted June 4, 2014 Share Posted June 4, 2014 Alright, what I did was undo the clamp at the bottom, then attach some silicone tubing so the reservoir wouldn't drain. Process after that was pretty much the same as the PDF documentation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ece_tim Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 Just wanted to pop by and say this process worked great for me. At 108K miles, my power steering started getting noisy and started screeching if I would turn the wheel without some momentum in the car to reduce the load on the power steering. The power steering assist was weaker at low speeds too, it was obviously having some kind of problem. Hoping it wasn't the pump itself, I followed the directions here and changed out the fluid. Problem is 100% gone! I made sure to flush a lot of clean fluid through it, probably more than necessary; but fluid is cheap and I didn't want to do it again! Regarding making a video for this, I hear you but it really is a straight forward process. Your power steering reservoir has two connections on it: one pointing towards the driver's side with a hose that goes to the power steering pump. One pointing towards the rear of the car with a hose that follows the top of the strut tower (per the pic on page 2) and then goes down behind the engine to the power steering rack. If you can locate these hoses, remove the inlet/return hose (the one pointing towards the rear), and remove the power steering belt, that's all there is to it. Also, I don't think you really need a second person to tackle this at all. Just make sure you fill the power steering reservoir all the way up, then turn the wheel from one end to the other and back. That amount of movement will take the reservoir below the minimum mark, but not empty it. Then fill it back up again. A second person REALLY isn't necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elightbo Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 Thanks for the info! My power steering was squeaking when parked and turning at 70,000 miles. Flushing the fluid as suggested worked like a charm. Just a quick note, my 2005 legacy wagon (non-turbo) had the fins you described for cooling. I couldn't find dexron full synthetic fluid as you described, so went with the closest I could find at the local auto parts store. Will this work ok, or should I find something better and re-flush? [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-VV324-6PK-MaxLife-Automatic-Transmission/dp/B00DJ4FGTY/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1404963363&sr=1-1&keywords=valvoline+synthetic+maxlife+atf]Amazon.com: Valvoline (VV324-6PK) MaxLife DEXRON/MERCON Automatic Transmission Fluid - 1 Quart, (Case of 6): Automotive[/ame] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ece_tim Posted July 10, 2014 Share Posted July 10, 2014 Any Dexron compatible fluid is fine. Considering the factory fill lasts well over 50K, in my case to 100K, I wouldn't bother with synthetic. But all should work fine! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted July 15, 2014 Share Posted July 15, 2014 I'm glad this thread got bumped because I've totally neglected my power steering. It always whines at full turn and upon checking the fluid, although it looks a clean red, by putting it side by side with fresh ATF, it is definitely darker and also feels thinner. Unfortunately it is both too hot outside to be working on the car and I'm not going to have even 15 minutes, so I just plan on sucking out the reservoir and line and topping it off repeatedly until it's all clean. 115K miles on the factory fill is outstanding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 I've done the same using the Subaru ATF. But I'm seeing all of you use dextron of some sort. So now I'm due two things. 1) get to replacing the o ring on the feed hose to the pump. 2) use some other fluid for this than the Subaru ATF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ece_tim Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 Per the factory manual, power steering fluid is ATF DEXRON III or equivalent. If you want to pay more for the actual Subaru ATF, it should work just fine as well, but technically it's not specified and Subaru doesn't state their ATF (PN K0140Y0700) is equivalent to DEXRON III. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 Yeah I began changing it slowly a long time ago with a vac tank here and there a long time ago. Gonna start doing the same and get a couple quarts of Dextron III to make the swap with this method. I need to put this upgraded oring in there too so may as well kill these two birds and see if I can get more miles out of this pump. Would do it now but my lower back is jacked at the moment. Leaning over the car would cripple me in this condition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 Yep, I also checked, and manual does say power steering to just use Dexron III. I wouldn't bother going out of my way to get Subaru ATF. I ran to Walmart and picked up a quart of Valvoline Dex III. I plan on going through 2 quarts just to be sure I've got it as clean as possible for a measly $8 total. So far I've replaced half of a quart and already I am seeing a difference. The power steering whine is completely gone. What I am wondering is ... is there any way to drain any of the fluid from the bottom? I have to wonder about deposits just sitting in the lowest parts of the steering system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted July 17, 2014 Share Posted July 17, 2014 I have the Subaru ATF in stock. Bought a case a while back and have plenty on hand after the last transmission flush. But if I don't need to use this I wont. Made a right mess last time I tried to replace the oring. Have the replacement but need the time (and spine) to tear into it again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaStaMooN Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 Decided to do a PS fluid change the 'easy' way by pulling out the old stuff, replacing with the new stuff and driving/running hte car for a bit. This is what I was pulling out vs what I was going to put in. Nasty. I did about half a quart on saturday, probably do the other half this next weekend. See what the fluid looks like in a week or 2. This was at 104k miles. Jon - vBGarage Profile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted August 4, 2014 Share Posted August 4, 2014 That's some nastiness. For me, I really prefer the "pump-it-out-with the PS pump" method. Probably the most-complete exchange of old-for-new that you can get, especially if you buy an extra quart for the process. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted August 21, 2014 Share Posted August 21, 2014 (edited) Revised and updated the PDF. You'll also find the updated version on ScoobyMods here. Included in this updated PDF are the Subaru P/Ns for the 4th Gen Legacy Power Steering O-Ring "Maintenance" item, and the OEM Power Steering Fluid, as well as information on how to set proper belt tension for the front and rear belts (Alt/PS & A/C Compressor).DIY Power Steering Pump Fluid Flush and Refill Walk-through Rev2 8-20-2014.pdf Edited October 15, 2018 by SBT Attached the revised version - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 Thank you for your help SBT. Did the o-ring and the complete flush. Unfortunately, I suck with fluids and they leaked down into the engine bay - so that has to burn off. But I got all the old fluid out, the 0-ring in, and the PS band tightened and every appears to be working. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thesavo Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 (edited) I just downloaded your PDF guide. I'll Try it on my '04MY tomorrow. Does the o-ring (34439FG000) apply to Gen 3s as well? Update: NO. Update. So the pump did change from 04 - 05. Gen 3 (99-04) - 34439AE00A Gen 4 (05-09) - 34439FG000 Does this same part fail the same in older models as it is want-to-do in Gen4's? Reference: http://parts.subaru.com/showAssembly.aspx?makeName=subaru&modelYear=2004&modelName=legacy25l-at-4wdl-s-wagon&ukey_assembly=6027933&ukey_category=54100&assembly=b12-348-01 http://parts.subaru.com/showAssembly.aspx?makeName=subaru&modelYear=2005&modelName=legacy25l-4at-4wd25i-limited-wagon&ukey_assembly=6027973&ukey_category=54100&assembly=b13-348-02 Edited October 4, 2014 by thesavo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 Different pumps between the two generations. 3rd Gen inlet side requires two O-rings... Item 7 here, P/N is 34439AE00A http://static.opposedforces.com/epc_img/366495034801.png 4th Gen inlet requires one O-ring not shown here, but fits between the flanged pipe in the center above the pump. P/N is 34439FG000 http://static.opposedforces.com/epc_img/366495134802.png - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thesavo Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 It's not critical I change it on my 04 is it? It doesn't appear to be leaking at the moment. I'd rather drive to the dealer after I make progress on these fluids. Getting started on a project can be difficult for some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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