bmx045 Posted November 1, 2011 Share Posted November 1, 2011 When the wastegate flap can't fully close(or fully block the hole), the compressor side will NOT build enough pressure, aka not reach target boost because the exhaust is being released and not used to turn the turbine. You could fix your turbo, seems like a simple fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelsbreakloose Posted November 1, 2011 Author Share Posted November 1, 2011 When the wastegate flap can't fully close(or fully block the hole), the compressor side will NOT build enough pressure, aka not reach target boost because the exhaust is being released and not used to turn the turbine. You could fix your turbo, seems like a simple fix. Yea, I'm gonna give it a shot. I already replaced the Turbo yesterday, but after looking at it more, i think I can just drill the roll pin out, tap the rod over, and install a new roll pin. I'll also need to clamp the waste-gate disk tight again. It was all loose and rattling. (that was the sound I was hearing from the turbo). I thought that my Turbo was worn because of the shaft play, but after I got the new one, It seemed to have just about the same amount of play. Least If I fix it, I could maybe sell it and get some money back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted November 2, 2011 Share Posted November 2, 2011 or BNR it for your eventual 16G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted November 2, 2011 Share Posted November 2, 2011 Oh BTW.. heres the vin and photo's of the car we traded in. VIN#4S3BL676854205451 http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff33/wheelsbreakloose/2005%20Subaru%20Legacy%20GT%20limited/Seattle-20111028-00187.jpg why the outback grill ? Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelsbreakloose Posted November 3, 2011 Author Share Posted November 3, 2011 why the outback grill ? The car came with it. I didn't know that it was an outback grill when we first purchased the car. Then when I finally noticed, I started doing a closer inspection, and realized that the car had been hit been in a fender bender at one time on the passenger front. But the car fax came up clean, so they must have fixed it themselfs, and paid out of pocket or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelsbreakloose Posted November 3, 2011 Author Share Posted November 3, 2011 Sorry that this thread has become way off the original topic. But I had another question for all of you. How long did your original clutch last in your cars? This Spec B has 75K on it, and I believe I'm starting to feel it slipping a little. The clutch doesn't engage until the pedal is almost all the way out, and then Yesterday when I was merging on the freeway and in forth gear, the RPM's shot up from 3000 to 4000 and then it felt like the clutch engaged again. I tried again to duplicate the symtom, but could only get it to do it a few more times and then it seemed fine again. FYI, I have been in the process of teaching my girlfriend how to drive it, but she's been doing very well. She's only burnt the clutch just a few times. And this did happen right after I had her practicing starting out in first gear on hills for about 45 minutes. Is it possible that the clutch was just glazed?.. is there a way to adjust the engagement point? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted November 3, 2011 Share Posted November 3, 2011 sounds like its on its way out. if you have spiking rpms with some jerking it is slipping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelsbreakloose Posted November 3, 2011 Author Share Posted November 3, 2011 sounds like its on its way out. if you have spiking rpms with some jerking it is slipping. Kinda what I figured. just seems odd that it would be going out so soon. Guess its better for her to use whats left of the life in this clutch, then it is to burn up a brand new one. gotta see the up side to everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelsbreakloose Posted November 4, 2011 Author Share Posted November 4, 2011 ummm.. any recommendations on brand of clutch I should get? I was thinking of maybe getting an Exedy, but then I thought I should just stick with OEM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 Just about anything other than OEM. Look in the Transmission forum, lot's of good info there. Me, I very happy with my Spec 2+ over 72,000 miles on it and it still grabs like new. For some reason people don't seem to like Spec that much, I'm very happy. You may not need a 2+ but a 1 or 2 may be fine for you depends on your HP and goals. A lot of guy's liek the Clutch Masters set up too. Read, you'll find what your looking for. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 The oem is exedy. Exedy stage 1 is a decent clutch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelsbreakloose Posted November 4, 2011 Author Share Posted November 4, 2011 Just about anything other than OEM. Look in the Transmission forum, lot's of good info there. Me, I very happy with my Spec 2+ over 72,000 miles on it and it still grabs like new. For some reason people don't seem to like Spec that much, I'm very happy. You may not need a 2+ but a 1 or 2 may be fine for you depends on your HP and goals. A lot of guy's liek the Clutch Masters set up too. Read, you'll find what your looking for. I'll check that out!! thanks man!!! at what mileage did your original clutch go out at? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 about 72,000 miles. The OEM clutch didn't give out, I figured while the dealer had the tranny out, I should up grade the clutch based on my two pervious legacy GT's. Even this one would smoke the OEM clutch backing up in 3" of snow. My Spec 2+ has never slipped. A few of the old timers know my clutch story. Late Jun 07, I was the first to have one of these installed. I had the 2+ clutch before I gave the car to the dealer, tranny was under warrenty, dealer called when they had the tranny out and old clutch off, said they oem flywheel needed to be replaced. If I wanted to go with a aftermarket, they would give me a day to get one. Spec wasn't done with the first batch of LWFW's yet. My son called a Honda buddy who works for Spec. He gave us a person that had one of the final proto type LWFW's on his desk. He boxed it up and overnighted it to the dealer. I had the car back that afternoon. We have also had great customer support from Exedy with our drag race civic. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelsbreakloose Posted November 4, 2011 Author Share Posted November 4, 2011 about 72,000 miles. The OEM clutch didn't give out, I figured while the dealer had the tranny out, I should up grade the clutch based on my two pervious legacy GT's. Even this one would smoke the OEM clutch backing up in 3" of snow. My Spec 2+ has never slipped. A few of the old timers know my clutch story. Late Jun 07, I was the first to have one of these installed. I had the 2+ clutch before I gave the car to the dealer, tranny was under warrenty, dealer called when they had the tranny out and old clutch off, said they oem flywheel needed to be replaced. If I wanted to go with a aftermarket, they would give me a day to get one. Spec wasn't done with the first batch of LWFW's yet. My son called a Honda buddy who works for Spec. He gave us a person that had one of the final proto type LWFW's on his desk. He boxed it up and overnighted it to the dealer. I had the car back that afternoon. We have also had great customer support from Exedy with our drag race civic. I see!.. SO your pretty happy with your Spec 2+? How does it feel for using just as a daily driver? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Matt Posted July 1, 2013 Share Posted July 1, 2013 http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff33/wheelsbreakloose/2008%20Subaru%20Legacy%20GT%20SPEC%20B/Seattle-20111031-00216.jpg Notice anything strange with the placement of the roll pin on the waste-gate shaft? http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff33/wheelsbreakloose/2008%20Subaru%20Legacy%20GT%20SPEC%20B/Seattle-20111031-00218.jpg This is my brand new one that I just purchased from Subaru for $993.37. This is what mine original one should have looked like http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff33/wheelsbreakloose/2008%20Subaru%20Legacy%20GT%20SPEC%20B/Seattle-20111031-00217.jpg Notice the roll pin placement on my new one. It seems that maybe somebody was having a bad day at the factory when they were putting together my original Turbo. Mine looks identical to this. Looks like it is pinned is in the wrong location. I am thinking along the same lines: Drill it out and replace it. Did you ever try to fix this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelsbreakloose Posted July 1, 2013 Author Share Posted July 1, 2013 Actually yes!!!. I was able to drill out the roll pin, and then tap the waste-gate arm further into the housing, and then tap a new roll pin into place. I then sold it on Craigslist for $350. Wish I would have tried to repair it before I bought the brand new one, but awell, least I don't have to worry about the turbo for awhile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Matt Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 Thanks, I was looking to know it was fixable before I pulled the turbo. Do you know what size pin it was by any chance? I am concerned because of the noise I am getting when my boost pressure rises, but it may just be the loose disc on the wastegate fluttering around. Should it be loose? Did you fix that too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelsbreakloose Posted July 3, 2013 Author Share Posted July 3, 2013 Im not to sure what the pin size is, but I just matched it up with the drill bit that I used to get the old roll pin out. The rattle noise from the disk was also a concern of mine, so I very carfully put it in a vise. Using a certain size socket (I dont remember what size) on the back side of the wastegate disk where it is crimped on to the lever, and another piece of metal to fit inside the cup part of the wastegate disk, I used the vise to smash down the crimp on the back of the disk. It seemed to do the trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelsbreakloose Posted July 3, 2013 Author Share Posted July 3, 2013 Oh! And by the way! Use some PB blaster and make sure that you got all of that old roll pin out! That wastegate lever is one tough SOB to push in. I eventually had to use a block of wood on the turbo casing, and used a vise to push the lever in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Matt Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 Did you remove the flap from the turbo to tighten the disc (how do you remove it?)? Or did you do it while it is still attached to the turbo? Is the pin supposed to mate with a feature on the sleeve for the wastegate, or does it just smash into the side of it? (Usually a set screw would be used for something like this.) Thanks for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelsbreakloose Posted July 8, 2013 Author Share Posted July 8, 2013 Sorry for the late reply. I was on vacation and didnt have good access to the internet. Anyway, there is really no way of removing the wasgate from the turbo housing because of all the welds. Its a real pain in the neck trying to get that wastegate disk flap tight again. I was only able to get it just a little bit tighter. I honestly wouldn't worry to much about it, but if your that concerned about it, you might try and see if you can find a used blown turbo and just swap the turbo housings. Something that I didnt think about doing until after I had already fixed the issue. Most people who have worn out their turbos, don't run it long enough to damage the turbo housing. That would probably be an easy swap, and probably wouldn't cost much money, that is if you can locate one from somebody.. (shrug) As far as the retaining pin, there is a notch in the waste-gate sleeve that the pin fits into, so you have to make sure that you have it lined up correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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