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went to the dragstrip


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Well I just read about the procedure for the center diff bulletproofing and it seems pretty straight forward and easy to do a days worth of work for me but the trouble still lies with 1 being that it is the problem and 2 I've got very bad financial problems with no work so its just gonna have to wait till I have money to fix it with the bushings or climberd center diff if it already is bulletproof. I'm so fricking pissed!!!! I don't have a good tune and still need more work now on top of the 3600 dollars I just put into this Damn car. This just makes me want to go out and beat on her till she brakes lol :(
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You're braver than me, had I hit fuel cut or boost cut once at the track I think I would have shut it down until I could look over things again and see what's going on... A couple runs down the track isn't worth losing a ringland...
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You're braver than me, had I hit fuel cut or boost cut once at the track I think I would have shut it down until I could look over things again and see what's going on... A couple runs down the track isn't worth losing a ringland...

 

+1. Even a slight stutter and I'm checking LV. My wife thinks I'm nuts.

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The handful of center diff cases tend to begin with a launch, which creates a noise, followed later by complete failure. Did the noise start after you put pedal to floor? Did it start immediately after the VB install? Can you spell out the timeline? Anything is possible. The VB directs fluid to the rear bearings and center diff, so something as simple as install error, or complex as technical defect, could possibly cause it. This is probably not the case, and a total long shot, but let's explore every angle for now. If it drove fine with the VB before you started launching, then indeed you may be joining the center diff club. If it was me I would:

1) drain fluid (save if fresh)

2) take apart the center diff

3a) if problem found, fix it

3b) if everything looks perfect and no slop anywhere, put back together and reinstall, then swap the VB for another to eliminate that last possible variable. That's just my style, try everything before you spend any serious money dropping the whole trans and having a pro take it all apart.

 

As for cost: 1 depends on how much fluid you re-use. 2 is the cost of a gasket or two, $20 or $40? 3a is necessary to keep car going, if the case, 3b is simply the cost of liquid gasket and lost fluid, and the second F1 valve body loan would be free in the end, but I don't loan things out that cost a fortune without a refundable deposit. Just don't blow the center diff. That's like $1000 if you actually ruin it. So the fact-finding part is low cost, and the repair will be limited to the damage already done. If it's minor, then pressing in bulletproof bushings may be enough to cover up the failure. If something unrelated to the planets, you can buy most of the parts individually from Subaru, or from me for less.

[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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Well after thinking about how I've been driving the car I did not here the noise after the install of everything sometime after the tune I was in a parking lot and I put it into 1st gear and started doing doughnuts...well tried and after that I started hearing the noise. So I think that was the cause...?
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Well after thinking about how I've been driving the car I did not here the noise after the install of everything sometime after the tune I was in a parking lot and I put it into 1st gear and started doing doughnuts...well tried and after that I started hearing the noise. So I think that was the cause...?

 

You didn't do the doughnuts counterclockwise, did you?!!

 

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My '05 LGT

My '07 Supercharged Shelby

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um .. it was hard to see .. in the video .. you had the car jacked up on jack stands ?

 

and spining all 4 wheels ?

 

i don't think that noise is center differential center diffrential noise would be a " tank tank tank" noise when accelerating and turning.

 

when all 4 wheels are spinning the center diff is turning as one complete unit. and the center diff will never make noise when all 4 wheels in the air.

 

if the noise is speed related it must be a bearing or could be bits of metal from center diff in the bearing.

 

does the sound change when accelerating or coasting ?

 

does it go away in 5th gear ?

 

it could be the transfer clutch thrust bearing.

Now that's thinking out of the boxer!:lol:

fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader

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Yes it was on jackstands and the noise is only noticeable in 1st and 2nd gear between 1500 to 2500 rpm. It does sound like a bearing noise there is no grinding or whining noise. when I was right under the center differential that's definitely where the sound is coming from. High speeds you can't hear it I can drive next to a curb and here it when in first and second gear at those rpm only when accelerating and coasting down in them gears at that rpm.
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http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_6/automatic_transmission/at_transfer_and_extension/illustration_1/

 

See #4, #6, #12

 

 

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_6/automatic_transmission/at_transfer_and_extension/illustration_2/

 

#11

 

When you pull it apart, you should be able to identify the part that is messed up. Hopefully it's indeed just one of these as mentioned, not something harder to get to. Some of these bearings are already hard enough to extract, some are easy. The service manual tells how, and if all else fails then take the affected part in hand to a professional and have him do the part(s) you are not equipped to handle.

 

 

Separately, I'm going to have another round of bushings machined, since several people want them. If you're already in there, the question becomes whether you want to put another $200 into it. That's entirely up to you. But first, find the issue.

[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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Ok so the tuner came by today And got everything right as far as I know. There is no more studder in any gear and WOT is good it was boost cut that was happening. But he said I need to get like an AEM map sensor 3.5 bar because the stock sensor only is able to see up to 22.5 psi... and boost control solenoid then I would be able to run my full boost which he says I can get 25 maybe 26 psi...

So now I just need to get my trans straightened out and I should be ok...for awhile until somethin else breaks!!!! Lol

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Your tuner sounds a bit liberal with boost (not a problem IMO if it tapers), but his recommendations for a 3-port EBCS and a higher pressure MAP sensor sounds very reasonable. Some would say you don't need the EBCS for EWG, but on mine the 3-port solved boost control issues instantly, and was thus worth the money IMO.
[CENTER][B][I] Front Limited Slip Racing Differentials for the 5EAT now available for $1895 shipped, please inquire for details! [/I][/B][/CENTER]
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Ok so a lil update with the transmission noise. Now when I come to a stop at a light or stop sign it is making a rattle noise when its at normal idle in gear waiting to go when I'm stopped. It doesn't do it every time but more often then not. I can here it in my car.there is nothing loose on my car it is definitely coming from the trans. So what is moving still when I am stopped in gear?
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