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oh buddy... that's alot of parts


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So after adding up the list of required parts for renewing the old girl I have sticker shock.

 

Total cost: $2800

 

Wha Happn? clearly I need to prioritize.

 

Car is bone stock and has 145K. Tops on my list are clutch and flywheel, struts and springs, tranny mount, control arm bushings, upper strut mounts, and end links.

 

Have I missed some other parts or should I just wait for those things to die on their own? I don't want to pay for an alignment job 3 times.

 

I would also like to replace the front and rear rotors and this seems like the best time to do it.

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Welcome, yea that's what happens when you want to play with your car.

 

I just spent $270 today along for some upgraded parts.

 

As far as prioritizing, rule of thumb is; maintenance first, second is brakes, then suspension and finally the engine/ drivetrain.

 

If I were you, I'd wait until all your parts arrive, so you do an alignments once, or get a limitless alignments program from Firestone.

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How did you spend $2800 on that stuff?
[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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My mistake, this post was unfinished and somehow I posted it. Must be a sticky keyboard :cool:

 

The $2800 was a guesstimate which includes a $850 FX300 clutch kit with flywheel.

 

I'm planning on buying front and rear struts and springs with upper mounts on all 4. Front LCA bushings (both F/R). End links, trans mount, inner and outer tie-rods, rotors and pads on all 4, and stainless flex lines on the fronts.

 

Anything I'm missing here? Thinking small parts like gaskets seals shims etc...

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Why are you changing out suspension pieces? have they all gone bad ?

 

Tie rod ends ? what's wrong with them ?

 

Does your car eat up tires ?

 

If it ain't broke don't fix it.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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If it ain't broke don't fix it.

 

If it ain't broke, modify it until it is!

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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If it ain't broke, modify it until it is!

 

I'm working on that thought process...

 

I think you understand what saying. I haven't replaced my tie rod ends, never had the aligned, tires wear evenly, if it ain't borke don't fix it.

 

They may have aligned it when I had the LCA bushings replaced, but if the trusted shop that did the work did the alignment, hey did a wonderful job. But that's why I use them and recommend them to anyone.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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In Somersville CT, Colonial Tire and Brake. 860 749 7933 Rich is the owner. They are right on rt190. They do all repairs on any car. Don't let the name make you think they only do tires and brakes.

 

My Dad turned me on to them back in the mid 80's.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Tie rods tend to wear over time and it then becomes more difficult to get a proper alignment.

 

An alignment will have to be done after the LCA bushings are changed, and again at a later date if a tie rod goes bad. By paying $200 up front for all new tie rods minus the $75 for an alignment later, means I'm actually only paying $125 for the tie rods. My car is also in the shop one less day, and I get paid more than $125 per day.

 

Who's gonna warranty my new tires if I can't show my wheels were aligned properly?

 

So, back to the beginning, anybody have any ideas on what I may have missed here?

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What about the TSK3 TOB kit ?

 

Good call. Totally missed it, and thats a show stopper once the tranny is on the floor. Hopefully I can return it if not needed.

 

I also missed stabilizer bar bushings, the rear inner/outer link bushings, and a set of steering rack bushings.

 

Hopefully one of our vendors can Provide me with a quote for all this stuff :icon_mrgr

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I have never had to have one of my newer cars aligned. I assume they got it right at the factory and don't ever ever ever let anyone mess with it, haha. I've never had anyone complain about not having an alignment when I got tires pro-rated. I usually have the outer front corners more worn than anything else (repeated fast cornering).

 

Along with the legacy I have a 2002 Camaro SS with 142,000 miles on it right now. As far as suspension I've only ever changed the shocks. All the front hardware and bushings are still in really great condition, I don't envision having to change that stuff until 200K+ at a bare minimum.

 

I have a '78 camaro (~300,000 miles) that has the original tie-rods still in great shape. As far as suspension it had to have the control arm bushings, all sway bar bushings / end links, center-link, and springs around 298,000. I feel like that was mostly due to it being 30 years old. Anyways, the car got aligned perfectly after I replaced all that. It's one of those things, take care of the parts - make sure the rubber boots and such are in good shape and they'll last a really long time.

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So after adding up the list of required parts for renewing the old girl I have sticker shock.

 

Total cost: $2800

 

Wha Happn? clearly I need to prioritize.

 

Car is bone stock and has 145K. Tops on my list are clutch and flywheel, struts and springs, tranny mount, control arm bushings, upper strut mounts, and end links.

 

Have I missed some other parts or should I just wait for those things to die on their own? I don't want to pay for an alignment job 3 times.

 

I would also like to replace the front and rear rotors and this seems like the best time to do it.

 

 

Also, is that it's first clutch job at 145K? Cause I'm going to be really happy if mine will last that long. 58K and mine feels different than brand new obviously, but still in good shape.

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