Gauging Interest: DIY 5EAT built rebuild kits

[KoukiS14]

I am interested, but, I am very hesitant. I'd like to see and know more about details, how your mods have been tested and to what power levels.

 

The only answer I have for that at the moment is in post #65 of this thread. As other folks purchase these and put them to the test, there will be more real world experience that may help you feel more comfortable with purchasing the kit.

 

That said, it's comparable to, but, in my opinion, better than the IPT 5EAT custom build. The stage 3 kit equals their clutch count in every position, with the exception of the front brake, where the my kit adds a third clutch pair, versus the stock two pair setup. The frictions and steels equal or exceed theirs.

 

Also, this is the only kit available with increase clutch counts. the IPT kit that you can purchase for a local install is stock clutch count in all positions. No upgrade other than the friction material. If you want the increased clutch count setup from IPT, you need to ship a transmission. With these kits, you get pre-assembled clutch packs and an overhaul kit with the steels and frictions for the remaining clutch packs, allowing an easy install for a local trans shop or the do it yourself types.

 

I'll throw up another post shortly so that you guys will have a better idea of what these kits are about. It may not change your mind, but at least you'll have some more information to go off of.

[dr20t]

Adam I am super excited for the kit to arrive and will post up a review as soon as it is up and running.

[KoukiS14]

We're all excited to see the results of your build. I think you'll be quite happy with the new transmission's performance.

[Squad51]

Reviving this.... Any word on the performance of these kits?

[KoukiS14]

The only people rocking these so far are me and dr20t. I've broken u-joints at about 12 psi brake boosting at the line, but the Penultimate build was un-phased. Dr20t stripped the teeth off of the rear diff input shaft sun gear, but as far as I know, the Pinnacle kit was not in any way perturbed.

[doccrowley]

Can you remind us what power level he was running to be able to strip those teeth?

[KoukiS14]

I'm not certain, but I think it was around 500 whp give or take 20.

[ClimberDHexMods]

I really believe dr20's center diff issue was due to a previous issue with a symptom of drivetrain noise, and we will know for sure soon.

Also KoukiS14, you are the only person I've ever heard of breaking a u-joint on a 5eat, and that includes all the big power builds over the years. IIRC, your u-joint wasn't completely original and untouched? I continue to see the 5eat as a very stable platform with just the two weak links of the stock valve body tuning, and stock center diff, and I have the sample size to support that. Then again, no one is disagreeing.

[dr20t]

Pinnacle kit and hexmod valve body is fantastic

 

Centre diff output shaft teeth were completely stripped when a mate of mine drove my car (first and last person to drive it).

 

It's what happens when you wheelspin through first and second and shift at 8500rpm with full boost and not letting off the loud pedal. Wheels grabbed traction whilst sideways and stripped the teeth completely bar half a tooth. Literally.

 

Power is circa 500whp on my car. Has trapped 125.4mph which confirms this power level.

 

The kit itself is amazing. Love the power delivery and crispness when desired yet smooth as silk operation in cruise mode.

 

The only problem I continue to have is when in normal auto / drive mode, some vibration / shuddering in second gear low revs medium load. So if I turn right at a set of lights from first then shift to second at say 30km/h, it feels like its sticking. I think this is vb or torque Convertor related although in saying that the Convertor was rebuilt when the kit went in and again when the centre diff shat itself.

 

It's like a slight binding. But again only in second gear and for a split second and only in auto mode. When manually shifted in sports mode it does not do it. And when I feel it come on I immediately back off and then go to manual mode as I don't want to risk damaging the box.

 

But in terms of the kit - no slip whatsoever - ever. And the vb is awesome like I said - shifts smooth and factory like when cruising but put your foot down and clamping pressure and shifts are fantastic and motorbike like.

 

Here are some links to some videos :

 

[ame=http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=fTx-AwKLJd8]2004 Liberty GT JDM EJ207 GTX3076 5eat - YouTube[/ame]

 

[ame=http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=c0VMO_XoHAs]2004 Liberty GT JDM EJ207 GTX3076 5eat - YouTube[/ame]

 

[ame=http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2x0V_001Egc]JDM EJ207 V10 Spec C GTX3076 - YouTube[/ame]

 

Mick

[Rester5350]

Dr20t, were you in auto mode or manual mode in the second video?

[dr20t]

Both manual mode - why?

[Rester5350]

Just wanted to see how fast it reacted with the manual input.

[dr20t]

Very quickly

[KoukiS14]

Yeah, the u-joint that I snapped was the first one at the front of the shaft. Turns out I'd popped the boost line off of the compressor, so was getting uncontrolled boost. It launched around 3600 RPM with somewhere north or 12 psi and instantly went bang. The shaft was a remanufactured unit out of Colorado. Not sure if it was a weak u-joint or simply too much power. Still slowly pursuing a built driveshaft option.

[ClimberDHexMods]

Yeah, the u-joint that I snapped was the first one at the front of the shaft. Turns out I'd popped the boost line off of the compressor, so was getting uncontrolled boost. It launched around 3600 RPM with somewhere north or 12 psi and instantly went bang. The shaft was a remanufactured unit out of Colorado. Not sure if it was a weak u-joint or simply too much power. Still slowly pursuing a built driveshaft option.

 

This was your problem. There are cars making 500whp with the stock 5eat driveshaft, and no problems. Stay stock (or OEM), stay happy

[frank_ster]

my drive shaft has zero issus thus far.. and i'm usually rwd..

[CAMS]

What are you doing for the forward brake and low coast brake?

According to Subaru if either one or both are bad the whole unit (trans) must be replaced.

I am sure you know this but for those other inquiring minds...

Upon disassembly of the trans after you remove the reverse brake you will find a plate that is held into the trans case by three torx bolts that thread in from the valve body side of the trans. If you remove those bolts and the plate you will find (depending on year of 5eat) a sprag/one way clutch, and two clutch packs. One pack is the low coast brake and the other is the forward brake (not to be confused with the front brake).

Both brakes restrict the reverse rotation of the mid planetary sun gear in decel while in 1st or 2nd of sport mode. Low coast is more crucial.

Neither are high wear items in my experience but are working for those using sport mode and auto-xing or downshifting 3-2-1 in sport mode.

[CAMS]

The reason Subaru says to replace the unit if either are bad is because the plate is "laser" aligned with a special tool at the factory and cannot be removed and reinstalled correctly without messing up the alignment.

Not trying to cause a problem for you I am just genuinely curious as I am balls deep in my full race overhaul for the street.

I blew my first trans stock. After installing my second trans I installed the transgo hd2 kit which worked well. Then I blew the center diff. After that I installed a second hand unit with my VB and new center diff bushings but it is showing signs of shenanigans after 20k miles. I am now building (out of my first trans core) a bomb proof trans for the street. This is all trial and error at this point as far as machining baskets/pistons and trying diff steels/frictions/snap rings goes.

Also trying single sided frictions as well. (this has me really excited)

 

Edit: Sorry to give life to such an old thread...