urdrwho Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 My son came home with a rear tire that was almost flat. Jacked it up to remove, took off the bolts but the wheel is frozen onto the stub. How do you get the thing off the stub????? http://legacygt.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif I've applied PB Blaster and used a wooden block against the wheel sledge hammer method but no go. Now I think I know why the car had three new tires and not four. The frozen tire is the one that isn't new. Maybe more Blaster and more hammering. I guess the next thing would be heat but I really don't want to do that one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 I've gotten a wheel loose before by putting the lug nuts on hand-tight, and driving in a tight figure-8 very slowly. Not really a great idea, but it worked. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted September 19, 2011 I Donated Share Posted September 19, 2011 try hammering on the wheel from the back side of it. knock it a few times, then spin the tire and work your way around. -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted September 19, 2011 I Donated Share Posted September 19, 2011 Not really a great idea, but it worked. You're right. That sounds like a terrible idea. -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That Guy 2-1 Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 Put one or two lugs nuts back in about halfway, make sure you have the car securely jacked (stands) and start kicking the wheel/tire from the back and go around a few times. Also try a dead blow hammer on the wheel. Believe me you need to be hard on it; show it who's the boss! Have never come across a wheel that didn't succumb to it! even showed a AAA tow truck guy how to do it when he was having this issue with a neighbor's car. he didn't appreciate some dude off the street showing him, but he was thankful Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 Don't go crazy on the rim portion unless you are using wood in between. Hit the center raised section. Will require more effort,but you won't risk denting the bead section. When you finally get it off. Clean the area around the hub (wire brush/sandpaper) and also the back of the wheel where the rust spots are. Lithium grease or anti seize when reinstalling on all of the above. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rice_rocket Posted September 19, 2011 Share Posted September 19, 2011 More blaster, give it some days.. and yeah do the hammer with a piece of wood.. stubborn... I've had tons of issues like that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted September 19, 2011 I Donated Share Posted September 19, 2011 Have you tried sitting on your but and kicking the wheel at the 3 and 9 o clock position repetitively (alternating between the two spots) with the bottom of your feet over and over again? That seems to work on most stuck tires. -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urdrwho Posted September 19, 2011 Author Share Posted September 19, 2011 Finally got it off by putting it up on jack stands, applying PB Blaster, using the sledge hammer from the back of the wheel hitting against a piece of 2X4. Took about 15 minutes of beating. Oh did I forget to say that a lug was rusted on and broke off. I think the previous owner never heard of anti seize. The last time I broke a lug was on a 1964 pontiac bonneville. For some reason they used left handed threads on the rear of that 64 Pontiac...yeah go figure. I had a breaker bar trying to get the lugs nuts off but in reality I was tightening them. That was over 40 years ago. I have the flu and at this time, I do not have the energy to remove the stuff to put a new lug in. He drives 5 miles to school in stop and go traffic, max 40 MPH road. I think 4 out of 5 lugs will do the job until I am healthy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted September 19, 2011 I Donated Share Posted September 19, 2011 I think the previous owner never heard of anti seize. You're actually NOT suppose to use anti seize on lugs. You're not able to get accurate torque with anti seize. Not to mention, why on earth would you want to lubricate something to make it come off easier especially when it holds on your wheels. I think 4 out of 5 lugs will do the job until I am healthy. 4/5 lugs will be fine to drive on as long as the other ones are in good condition. I have 4/5 lugs on the LF tire on my 98 OB......4/5 on my 95 Legacy RF.....had 4/5 on the RF on my 97 Legacy.....and my 01 Taurus had 4/5 on one of the front tires. Never once had a problem and collectively Ive driven more then 75,000 miles on cars missing lug studs. -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urdrwho Posted September 20, 2011 Author Share Posted September 20, 2011 Anti sieze doesn't mean it is going to come off it just means it isn't going to freeze onto the lug. When you use the anti seize you must torque about 10>15% less than factory spec. From an engineering site they had a thread - Use of Anti Seize on Vehicle Lug Nuts They even use anti seize on helicopter rotors but it must be applied properly. http://www.engineersedge.com/wwwboard/posts/13070.html "http://www.mechanicsupport.com/articleTorqueWrench.html If you look at the table / charts provided near the bottom of the page at the link directly above, using anti seize on the *thread only* shows slightly less axial load than using no lubricant at all. This is probably due to the wide variation in friction of identical bolts with dry un-lubricated threads, which can be as much as +/- 25% to +/- 50%.. See the following links for more information. http://www.surebolt.com/ http://www.rstechltd.com/TITERITE.PDF http://www.rstechltd.com/Advanced%20Torque%20Auditing-FTI%20Oct%202001.pdf http://www.rstechltd.com/Technical_articles.htm (some more articles here) http://www.hexagon.de/dose/dose-1e.pdf http://euler9.tripod.com/fasteners/preload.html They say that about 90% of the input torque of the torque wrench is consumed by friction, with 50% of the friction being between the bolt head and mounting surface, 40% of the friction being in the threads, & only 10% being the stretch of the bolt which produces the axial force or preload. The article at mechanicsupport.com references another article titled "Failure of bolts in helicopter main rotor drive plate assembly due to improper application of lubricant" by N. Eliaz, G. Gheorghiu, H. Sheinkopf, O. Levi, G. Shemesh, A. Mordecai, H. Artzi, Published in Engineering Failure Analysis #10, pages 443-451 Here is a link to the article published in engineering failure analysis. http://www.eng.tau.ac.il/~neliaz/Papers_Files/C27.pdf Regarding the article at the link directly above, it seems it was not the use of anti seize that was causing failure of the helicopter rotor bolts, but rather the improper application of anti seize that was causing failure, namely applying anti seize under the bolt head or nut instead of only applying it to the fastener threads. Applying anti seize under the bolt heads and/or nuts increased axial loads substantially. It also appears Tightening by turning the bolt instead of, as specified, the nut, resulted in more torque going into bolt tension rather than being absorbed by bolt head friction. " You're actually NOT suppose to use anti seize on lugs. You're not able to get accurate torque with anti seize. Not to mention, why on earth would you want to lubricate something to make it come off easier especially when it holds on your wheels. 4/5 lugs will be fine to drive on as long as the other ones are in good condition. I have 4/5 lugs on the LF tire on my 98 OB......4/5 on my 95 Legacy RF.....had 4/5 on the RF on my 97 Legacy.....and my 01 Taurus had 4/5 on one of the front tires. Never once had a problem and collectively Ive driven more then 75,000 miles on cars missing lug studs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecBamf41 Posted September 20, 2011 Share Posted September 20, 2011 dude you posted a massive essay on the topic of anti seize. thats crazy BNR18g on 93oct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That Guy 2-1 Posted September 20, 2011 Share Posted September 20, 2011 dude you posted a massive essay on the topic of anti seize. thats crazy he deserves an e-cookie on another note, good info! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urdrwho Posted September 20, 2011 Author Share Posted September 20, 2011 Just seemed worth mentioning it. dude you posted a massive essay on the topic of anti seize. thats crazy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jab83 Posted September 20, 2011 Share Posted September 20, 2011 I'm glad my wheels werent like this. I'd have been soooo pissed!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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