compsurge Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 You don't need to log the knock active sw. I've found it to be impossible to log with it since it's not fast enough. Check for leaks in the intake tract. Do you have OEM intercooler? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
butters Posted September 14, 2011 Author Share Posted September 14, 2011 You don't need to log the knock active sw. I've found it to be impossible to log with it since it's not fast enough. Check for leaks in the intake tract. Do you have OEM intercooler? Yeah I meant to take that out of the log but forgot. I've checked the intake and I didn't see any cracks. Intercooler is stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
butters Posted September 14, 2011 Author Share Posted September 14, 2011 Took off the intercooler to inspect the tabs. The tabs down by the turbo were bent out a bit but none of them were cracked. I tired to take some pictures but all I have is my iphone so they aren't that great. I bent them back as best as I could and put it back on. How does it look? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 Looks like what mine did. It was a 2 person job to fix it though (eventually went IPR). Used one person to hold the black end tank in and another to clamp over the tabs. Do you have access to an air compressor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 Also change your data log parameters I'd suggest this: A/F Learning 1 (%) A/F Sens 1 Ratio (AFR) Boost (PSI) Dyn. Adv. Mult (DAM) Calculated Load Feedback Knock () Fine Knock Learn () Ignition Timing () MAF (g/s) RPM (RPM) Throttle Pos. (%) We know it's knocking, let's see how the ecu is handling it (FBKC, FLKC,IAM/DAM) and there is no misfiring (cylinder roughness). Does your car stink of fuel/exhaust when you get in it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
butters Posted September 15, 2011 Author Share Posted September 15, 2011 I used some vice clamps to hold the end tank and then bend the tabs back. I will probably go aftermarket eventually but I'm somewhat broke at the moment haha. I do have access to a small air compressor. I don't ever notice any fuel smell. I will get an updated log up tomorrow. Thanks again for all the help. I've done a lot of reading the last few days but I've learned a lot about my car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 One thing you can do on the cheap is build a pressure tester at Lowes/Home Depot/Harbor Freight. Basically you need pvc pipe for the inlet tube/airbox and a quick change adapter. Pressurize the system to 20-25 psi and hold for a couple seconds while you listen for air leaks. I skipped some important points, but there are DIY Boost Pressure Tester instructions freely available on the internets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 15, 2011 Share Posted September 15, 2011 I use a pint paint can to plug the hose from the air box. Pull the small line of the BOV and use a air hose at the gas station to put a quick shot of air into the small hose. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted September 16, 2011 Share Posted September 16, 2011 ^ yea Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
butters Posted September 22, 2011 Author Share Posted September 22, 2011 Well I took the car back to the dealer on Monday and they fixed the oil leak but they said they couldn't find anything else wrong with it. I noticed by battery tie down is missing so my battery has just been sliding around. I ordered a new tie down and bolts today. I also found a ground wire for something that is broken and took a picture of it. It's grounded to the firewall under the intercooler on the passenger side and the other broken end was laying down beside my turbo. Any idea where this is supposed to go? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 Transmission. It should be on the driver side near the top. Ask me how I know (forgot it when doing a clutch job) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 Pull the knock sensor and check for cracking. Retorque is very low - like 15 to 17 ft-lbs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted September 23, 2011 Share Posted September 23, 2011 Also, while datalogging/viewing the knock count, try dragging the clutch partially engaged to see if your knock sum goes haywire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
butters Posted September 25, 2011 Author Share Posted September 25, 2011 Also, while datalogging/viewing the knock count, try dragging the clutch partially engaged to see if your knock sum goes haywire. Tried this and it didn't affect the knock count. I noticed yesterday that the gasket between the bov and the intercooler is missing so there is a leak there. Ordered a new one so that should be fixed in a few days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted September 25, 2011 Share Posted September 25, 2011 If nothing else appears to be leaking, you can do what I did and use AccessTUNER Race and adjust the Ignition Tables > Knock Control > Fine Knock Learning Modify (Load Range) to 0.85 / 0.95 | 2.10/2.20 from the stock 0.7/0.75 (? | 2.10/2.20. I think some members have done so with even a 1.1/1.2 edit. My car has stayed put at a IAM/DAM of 1.0 since. Also, AccessTUNER Race is free from Cobb - follow the instructions on their website. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
butters Posted September 26, 2011 Author Share Posted September 26, 2011 If nothing else appears to be leaking, you can do what I did and use AccessTUNER Race and adjust the Ignition Tables > Knock Control > Fine Knock Learning Modify (Load Range) to 0.85 / 0.95 | 2.10/2.20 from the stock 0.7/0.75 (? | 2.10/2.20. I think some members have done so with even a 1.1/1.2 edit. My car has stayed put at a IAM/DAM of 1.0 since. Also, AccessTUNER Race is free from Cobb - follow the instructions on their website. Thanks. I will try that once the new bov gasket gets here in a few days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted September 26, 2011 Share Posted September 26, 2011 FYI (and for eventual google redirects...): Just be sure you've exhausted all other options (leak check, boost test, compression test, etc.). I have done so and found it futile to bother with it anymore. Accepting it is noise, I raised the level and will drive it without bucking and throwing hissy fits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted September 27, 2011 Share Posted September 27, 2011 Edit: Nope. My DAM returned to 0.0, but I have full boost (wtf???). I must have missed something when reading about knock correction. I'll adjust some more parameters with respect to knock sensitivity before calling it quits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
butters Posted September 29, 2011 Author Share Posted September 29, 2011 New bov gasket is on and it's still knocking. I've checked my vacuum lines over and over and I can't find any leaks. It knocks between 2-3k when I'm driving but if I'm sitting still and rev it it usually doesn't knock. Sometimes it will but not nearly as much as when I'm driving. I also noticed that when it returns to idle after I rev it the revs will drop really low for a split second like it's going to stall but then they pop right back up to normal idle. It will also knock once every time i put it in to reverse. I was going to pull the knock sensor off and inspect it but it's going to start raining soon so I had to give up for the day. Hopefully I can do that this weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted September 30, 2011 Share Posted September 30, 2011 The rev dip issue sounds like it could be a possible vacuum leak or normal subaru. Using the AP, check what the boost is at idle. It should be something around -9psig. If you have a boost gauge installed, it should read something like -21-22 psig. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted September 30, 2011 Share Posted September 30, 2011 If you have some tools and are willing to spend at least 2 hours working, you can pull the OEM turbo inlet tube to inspect. At the very minimum some sort of pry bar and angled long-reach pliers. I am going to pull mine to see if I have some chaffing at the turbo with the hose clamp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
butters Posted October 4, 2011 Author Share Posted October 4, 2011 Ok now I'm really confused. The car drives perfect. There is no hesitation at all and it pulls smooth all the way to redline. My DAM is at 1.0 and I'm making full boost. However it's still knocking between 2-3k under low load just as much as it has been. Occasionally my DAM will drop down to .6 or .7 then after 5 or so minutes of driving it will climb back up to 1. Even when the DAM drops the car is still making full boost. It's really weird. If I didn't have the accessport hooked up I would have no idea that there is anything wrong with the car. I downloaded accesstuner race but haven't messed around with the knock sensitivity yet. I may try doing that and see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 It will go back to 0.0, just give enough time driving in the 2-3k range. At a certain DAM, it will pull boost. I think it's 0.5 or 0.3. Until then, it's removing timing. Have you pressure tested your system yet? Do you have any odd vibrations or noises? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
butters Posted October 4, 2011 Author Share Posted October 4, 2011 It will go back to 0.0, just give enough time driving in the 2-3k range. At a certain DAM, it will pull boost. I think it's 0.5 or 0.3. Until then, it's removing timing. Have you pressure tested your system yet? Do you have any odd vibrations or noises? Interesting. It does seem better now than the last few weeks though. The DAM used to drop down to 0 after a half hour or so of driving. I reset my ECU Saturday morning and my DAM was still at 1 on the way home from work this afternoon. I haven't pressure tested yet. It's next on my to do list though. Hopefully I'll get a chance to do it tomorrow. I haven't noticed any weird noises or vibrations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted October 4, 2011 Share Posted October 4, 2011 Let me know if anything you does cures this. We have similar issues (I will try to pull that inlet tube tomorrow, even though I've checked it 2 times - maybe third time's the charm ). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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