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How to: Installing your Fast Motorsports FMIC

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Contact Joshua at Import Image Racing to order yours today. Hes been great helping me so far and ships really fast.


Continue my most up to date build log here: http://mwsubies.com/index.php?topic=17.0


I would set aside about 4-6 hours for the full job, sadly i dont have an engine right now so i couldnt finish today but will finish the complete how to once i run the piping. :lol:



Full Set of metric sockets and ratchet

Cutoff wheel or sawzall

flat head screw driver


Angle grinder




Step One:

Remove grill -2 bolts and 2 clips


Step Two:

Get the bumper off, there are about 10-12 clips holding the bumper on and a couple bolts. There are 3 or 4 on each side of the car holding the bumper to the wheel well cladding and one on each side holding it to the actual fender. As well as a few on the bottom across the front including a bolt or two.



Step Three:

Once you have removed the front bumper and grill, you will need to remove the actual bumper structure and foam from the car. There are 4 bolts on each side of the bumper and you also need to remove 4 10mm bolts on each side on the bottom of the headlights to be able to lift the bumper structure up and out of the way.




Step Four:

Reattach the 10mm bolts that still have mounting points that you removed from the headlight mounts. Now get out your FMIC mount and finger tighten it to your car, we will tighten this down later. Two bolts on the bottom one on the top.


Step Five:

Get out your cut off wheel and remove the 2 tabs that stick out across the front lip of the core support. The one in the center needs to be cut off almost directly in the middle of the bolt hole and the one of the left just needs to be trimmed flush with the rest of the lip.






Step Six:

Get out your intercooler and begin to line it up to bolt on the new FMIC mount that is supplied. Unless i was just unlucky the bolt holes are off about 1/4 of an inch side to side and front to back. This is where you will use your drill and angle grinder to enlarge the holes for proper mounting. This took me about 4 tries to get it perfect. I suggest getting larger washers then are supplied with the bolts because of the larger mounting holes. (I also put some lock washers on)



Step Seven:

Once you have your mounting holes lined up go ahead and mount the intercooler loosely, we will again tighten this later. Now laydown under the car and check that the bottom mounts line up, mine did perfectly and insert the two bolts and washers supplied with the kit and tighten these down. Make sure that the intercooler has clearance from the lip of the core support and is not touching.





Step Eight:

Once we have the bottom mounts tightened down go ahead and tighten the top mounts. Also go ahead and tighten the mount to the car, again making sure everything is level and there is no rubbing. You have successfully mounted the front mount and are ready to begin running your piping.



This is where i will have to stop for now until i get my black piping and have an engine to run the piping to, i will finish this how to as soon as i am completely done.

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Step Nine:


Grab the two Uish shaped pipes and they are going to be the first pipes on either side of your intercooler. A quick test fit will clearly show which goes where on the first pipe for each side. Make sure to place clamps very loosely on couplers before connecting everything. Also to make it easier on yourself make sure that the coupler is pushed as far as it can go onto the I-C and the pipes are pushed in as well. If not you will be too wide and hit the fog light casings.

Clamps have a 10mm nut and will need a wrench or deep socket to tighten.





Step Ten:

From here the actual pipes that are used may differ from my set up because of turbo, intake manifold or other modifications.

Be sure you have all couplers and clamps you need and begin to piece together the rest of your intercooler piping. Upon having your completed routing of pipe begin at the intercooler and tighten all clamps down using a 10mm deep socket or wrench. Some connections may require a flat head screw driver. Be sure to properly tighten all clamps to avoid leaks.





Step Eleven:

Attach your stock or aftermarket BPV/BOV.

Make sure you have the appropriate gasket, which should be replaced in most cases. Reattach, I used my own hardware here, and make sure all hoses are reconnected and tightened down to prevent leaks.


Insert picture here


Step Twelve:

Now that the engine bay and full FMIC and piping is complete and tightened we need to tackle trimming the front bumper to fit. You will be removing more than you think needs to be removed. From the center of the center brace of the bumper you will cut 14 inches in each direction. And will end up with ~3 inches of depth in the bumper after trimming surrounding the I/C and tapering down from the center. I recommend you use painters tape to test fit where the FMIC lines up on your particular application. Here are some pictures of the trimmed bumper and final fitment.








Step Thirteen:

Reattach bumper using any and all screws, clips, and bolts required. Some places will no longer be able to be used so be sure to use as many mounting points as possible. Double check all of your work, if you want to make a leak tester for the piping as seen here.



Any questions or issues please let me know so i can modify or clarify.

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Well done. Nice post JB. Import Image Racing should give you a rebate for your contribution.


I like the idea of an FMIC but just can't get past the bumper beam issues. I imagine I'll eventually end up w/ either an ITSME or AVO (minimal trimming) but I wanna see how much heat soak a little water/meth can offset before I commit.

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As I mentioned in my build thread, id love if i could have kept it but its not a huge factor not keeping it. Once i get the car back on the road for a while ill probably fab up a different mount that gives more protection, but for now this will do.
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...
Not sure what hardware came with your kit but I caution if the intercooler mounting bolts are M8x1.25x40mm they are TOO LONG!! They will bottom out and strip the helicoils in the intercooler. Buy 4 M8x1.25x30mm. These will work! The only issue I have run into so far but would have been nice to know prior to trying to tighten. This will save some headaches.
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mine were fine. I also double washered them so that might be why.

You would have to add about 5 washers for these to work. Also I did not have to slot the holes in the IC core support as suggested above. They lined up perfect.

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Im having a issue with closing the hood. Hood hits the piping on the left side. Not just a little bit either. Really no tweaking can be done. Hoping the removal of the hood insulation will remedy this. Havent really tried yet as I did the full install while at work and working on other cars at the same time. Just tried to close the hood before I left.



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  • 5 weeks later...


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