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Hey legacy drivers. Little bout myself so you can get a bit of my background and what i can do.

The car i am here for is my mothers 97 Legacy GT Wagon. (2.5L)

 

As i am sixteen and the car has only been in the family for 5 years and it's not mine, I have little to no experience under the hood of the vehicle.

 

The Mechanics say the "Check Engine" light is bugged... suuuure

 

in Low RPM the exhaust rattle's like you wouldn't believe. and it takes about 5 seconds at full throttle to reach 60km/h.

 

once the Tach hits about 3500-4000 it quiets right out and lunges forward with power. then shifts to second at 5000-5500 (depends on the car's mood i guess)

 

OH and the horn is a button... why because the mechanics went into the steering column and replaced some metal bracket or something but they couldn't replace the horn. So now you can pound on the wheel and nothing happens...

 

My father and I believe that the mechanics screwed up the electronics in the wheel causing some form of short. I trust you guys more than the mechanics. They just put a new part on call it fixed and nothing really changes except moms bank account.

 

I'll post some pics. If you wonder about the hood not having a scoop, ma had a minor accident and got the hood replaced. but bought a non scooped one.

 

Thanks I really wish i could get this thing back to running order. I'm also doing body work on her atm.

 

http://i387.photobucket.com/albums/oo318/Szustygesto/IMG_0146.jpg

 

http://i387.photobucket.com/albums/oo318/Szustygesto/IMG_0145.jpg

The horn can be seen As the push button beside the fog lights.

http://i387.photobucket.com/albums/oo318/Szustygesto/IMG_0147.jpg

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I am leaning towards spark plugs, spark plug wires, fuel filter or injectors. What is the code the car is throwing. If you take it to an autozone and they will pull it for free. Post the code and that could pin point the problem much better
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your horn isnt even on the stearing wheel? wow... that sounds like it wouldnt even be legal in the US. 1st step change mechanics. get a second opinion on things. shes got 260k on her maybe just a tranny fluid flush if that hasnt been done recently. hard tellin not knowin.
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the exhaust rattle is a non issue. it is just the shields on the exhaust pipe. you can use stainless pipe clamps to resecure them. depending on howloose they are, it may take several.

 

the ''check engine'' light on the dash indicate there is a trouble code stored. go to a local parts store and have them read the code. it will be a Pxxxx code and it will tell us what is ''wrong '' with the engine. or at least it will point in the right direction.

 

DO NOT simply take the parts guy word for it if he says '' the codes says you need a new ______ sensor''. get the actual code and report back.

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  • I Donated
Go to any auto parts store. They will hook up a scanner to the car and "pull the code". Meaning they will tell you why your check engine light is on.

-broknindarkagain

My Current Project - Click Here

COME AND TAKE IT

"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing."

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shops are closed today but, made a vid yesterday.

 

both accelerations in the alley are with full throttle.

 

Also, lost vent control. Can't change which vent air come out. there's no lights either.

 

One more thing when starting, it doesn't always start. it's like well nothing, all dash lights come on nothing happens. turn key off try again same thing. try again, and it starts.

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ItXtR-D3EM]‪97 Legacy 2.5 GT .wmv‬‏ - YouTube[/ame]

 

Oh and it can go back to the "sluggish" mode after driving for a while then it goes nice. then it goes sluggish again... etc.

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If nothing is turning on half the time trying to start check the battery terminals...well, the wires actually. I've had this problem myself, 1 even semi-loose wire will cause all sorts of havoc and it's SO easy to overlook especially if the terminal lugs are the nut/bolt ones with the bolts on the bottom. Shakes loose, wire comes a tad loose and looses the connection and all sorts of shenanigans ensue.

 

Start there, you won't see it on any computer unless it shows that the battery has been disconnected in the last XX starts.

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It's 5am the car's going to a shop in a few hours.

Driving it today i realised that it gets really hot.

 

So i parked at home and just let it idle. temp keeps climbing, no rad fans ...

Temp hits 3/4 of the gauge, no fans, nothing. kick up the rpm's... nothing.

 

when running hard smells like burning... something.

 

And yes the codes will be up soon. As soon as the shop opens.

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This is NOT the same shop that did the horn and screwed everything else up is it? If so, you need your head examined not your car. Something is definately not right about what they did to your car and they obviously cannot be trusted and do not know what they are doing. I cant believe that they tried to blow off the horn like it was no big deal.

 

Good luck, dont let the car overheat or you are going to need a headgasket.

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Want the bitter truth?

 

Get rid of it.

 

It'll be cheaper and easier to find another late 90's Legacy Wagon, than it will be to continue chasing geese in this one.

 

She's got 260k on it. Let someone else deal with the problems, and find something else.

 

As for the rattle and poor acceleration, when was the timing belt last changed and was the tensioner changed at the same time?

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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Even with 161k, things are going to start breaking more and more frequently. Sure, these cars can last into their 200's, but it requires almost religious maintenance.

 

I'd drop it, and buy one with half the miles for the money you'll spend trying to get this one into similar condition.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)

P0400 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Malfunction

P0325 - Knock Sensor Circuit Malfunction

P0302 - Cylinder 2 Two Misfire Detected

 

Converters are NOT cheap. I believe you will have to use a direct fit...and those can cost up to $1000 for the part alone. You should probably do your o2 sensors with the converter for safe measures

 

EGR should be replaced. its probably gunked up

 

Knock sensor should be replaced

 

Do a tune up

-broknindarkagain

My Current Project - Click Here

COME AND TAKE IT

"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing."

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Might be better for you to scrap the car and buy a new one. With that many miles, its not worth even fixing. Sell it off for $1500 and put that money towards a new car.

 

Oh yeah, the mechanic that told you your check engine light is "bugged" is a freaking moron.

-broknindarkagain

My Current Project - Click Here

COME AND TAKE IT

"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing."

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P0420 - Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)

P0400 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Malfunction

P0345 - Knock Sensor Circuit Malfunction

P0302 - Cylinder 2 Two Misfire Detected

 

Converters are NOT cheap. I believe you will have to use a direct fit...and those can cost up to $1000 for the part alone. You should probably do your o2 sensors with the converter for safe measures

 

EGR should be replaced. its probably gunked up

 

Knock sensor should be replaced

 

Do a tune up

it was p0325 not p0345, typo or wrong code?

 

not that it matters at this point, time to let her rest in peace.

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