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Oops - car was started without air filter assembly in place - got a CEL


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I have a 2007 Legacy 2.5i (completely stock).

 

I was cleaning out my air filter yesterday and while it was drying the car accidentally started (I have a remote starter and left the keys in my pocket and sure enough I banged into a wall and it started...I've since learned my lesson and will leave keys in car next time but I digress)...

 

So I have two questions.

 

1) How much damage could I have possibly caused to the engine? I don't think anything could have gotten sucked up in there but I'm not sure.

 

2) I'm assuming the CEL popped up because the clip that attaches near the airbox (not sure what this is) was not plugged in. I checked a few codes at autozone and there were 6 of them - I didn't write them down though - I cleared all 6 and tried to start the car.

 

Next the car strangely didn't want to turn over on its own but with a little pump of the gas pedal I got it to turn over. The CEL was still on so I checked codes (didn't write them down again) and there were 10 codes.

 

I tried to check the codes again and I was getting some errors that I could not communicate. At this time I kept hearing a clicking sound (probably a relay going on) and the fan kept turning on about every 5 seconds (on/off and on/off over and over).

 

5 minutes later it connected and I got the infamous P1718 (T CAN communication circuit) and a P0700 error. I was able to clear these and the CEL went away. It has now been gone for ~15 hours.

 

Is this normal at all? Has anyone experienced a situation like this? What, if anything at all, should I do next? Do you think I will have a future problem as a result of this?

 

Thanks in advance for your thoughts / help / suggestions.

 

It's my wife's car - she's out of town. Let's keep this between us. =)

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Assuming you, pulled the battery cable, put the air box back together the way it should be. Connect the battery, start the car.

 

A lot of the CEL will clear them selves after 4 start cycles if it's nothing serious.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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I believe after you reset the ECU, it needs to re-establish communication with all of the devices before it will restart. I was always under the impression that after the ECU is reset, you must turn the ignition to the run position, let the gauge sweep happen, and wait five seconds for all this to take place. If you don't, it can cause a situation like you had.
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I believe after you reset the ECU, it needs to re-establish communication with all of the devices before it will restart. I was always under the impression that after the ECU is reset, you must turn the ignition to the run position, let the gauge sweep happen, and wait five seconds for all this to take place. If you don't, it can cause a situation like you had.

 

Quoted for truth. After a reset the ECU needs about 5-10 secs with the key in the on position before actually firing off.

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1) How much damage could I have possibly caused to the engine? I don't think anything could have gotten sucked up in there but I'm not sure.

 

Possibly, you could have done something horrible.

Realistically, there was probably zero damage.

 

2) I'm assuming the CEL popped up because the clip that attaches near the airbox (not sure what this is) was not plugged in. I checked a few codes at autozone and there were 6 of them - I didn't write them down though - I cleared all 6 and tried to start the car.

 

The clip is for the mass air flow sensor and intake air temp sensors (they're in a single integrated unit). The codes were almost certainly due to those two sensors being offline.

 

Next the car strangely didn't want to turn over on its own but with a little pump of the gas pedal I got it to turn over. The CEL was still on so I checked codes (didn't write them down again) and there were 10 codes.

 

I tried to check the codes again and I was getting some errors that I could not communicate. At this time I kept hearing a clicking sound (probably a relay going on) and the fan kept turning on about every 5 seconds (on/off and on/off over and over).

 

As a couple people just mentioned, it takes a few seconds for the ECU to wake up after a reset. Just about everyone who resets their ECU for the first time turns the key and spends 4-5 seconds thinking "oh no its dead what did I do please start please start please please please" and then it fires fight up.

 

(It's especially fun to discover this after reflashing your ECU for the very first time, because at that point you DID just do something which, if done wrong, can leave you with an undriveable car.)

 

Anyway, the clicking and cycling fan sounds like you had the 'test mode' connectors joined. They're under the glove box. For no particular reason, turning the key with those connectors joined will produce these codes...

 

P0500 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) not working properly

P1518 - Start Switch Circuit Low Input

P1590 - Neutral Position Circuit Switch High Input

P0131 - o2 Sensor Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

P0132 - o2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

 

...even though all of those things are in perfect working order. Disconnecting the 'test mode' connectors will make them go away until the next time you forget to disconnect them.

 

Did you join those connectors at some point? If so, those codes will probably look familiar.

 

It's my wife's car - she's out of town. Let's keep this between us. =)

 

:lol:

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(It's especially fun to discover this after reflashing your ECU for the very first time, because at that point you DID just do something which, if done wrong, can leave you with an undriveable car.)

 

 

 

This explains so much! Thanks. Every time I reset with my AP, I'm always a little nervous since it doesn't turn over :eek:. Now I know to wait a bit longer in ON.

 

OP - I wouldn't sweat it. Just plug the MAF cable back in and make sure it's connected well and start it up.

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Anyway, the clicking and cycling fan sounds like you had the 'test mode' connectors joined. They're under the glove box. For no particular reason, turning the key with those connectors joined will produce these codes...

 

P0500 - Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) not working properly

P1518 - Start Switch Circuit Low Input

P1590 - Neutral Position Circuit Switch High Input

P0131 - o2 Sensor Low Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

P0132 - o2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 Sensor 1)

 

...even though all of those things are in perfect working order. Disconnecting the 'test mode' connectors will make them go away until the next time you forget to disconnect them.

 

Did you join those connectors at some point? If so, those codes will probably look familiar.

 

:lol:

 

 

Wow that makes complete sense now. I did at some point connect those green connectors thinking that they were supposed to be together. I posted here also asking what they are - http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/please-help-identify-connector-165639.html

 

I wasn't sure why I got the CEL in the first place (figured it was the MAF clip) but could not confirm entirely so I tried to put those connectors together.

 

It has now been 2 days and I haven't popped a CEL yet so I'm assuming I'm in the clear. I just wanted to say thanks again to the community for taking the time to respond. I appreciate it.

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I just wanted to say thanks again to the community for taking the time to respond. I appreciate it.

 

Just wait until you ask a dumb question the trolls here can be real tough, not that I would ever be a troll....

 

Hey why don't you ask if you should put a towel in the hood scoop when you wash the car.

 

You love the responses LOL

 

Welcome to the forum.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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