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Car shaking badly on freeway


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Well I re-greased both my calipers (again). The slider pins, the parts where brake pads sit (the brackets) and the outter ring of the pistons. The vibration has STOPPED!

 

That's good news. Trying to draw the line between cause and effect on this one is difficult, especially if the wheels are torqued down correctly, and the rotor(s) run true, there should be no wobbling, and therefore no vibration, from the brakes. Unless, you're finding that the sliders were so crudded-up that the calipers weren't releasing properly and keeping the pads odd-angled against the rotor. My comment about OEM pads below applies here too.

 

But now my driver side feels like its running hotter then the passenger side? This never happened before and my brakes squeak on braking.

 

Could you characterize how you determined temp diffs between the two sides. Also, brake squeal/squeak is typically a brake pad "shim" issue, and specifically the lack of pad shim(s). Do you have OEM brakes/pads? If no, it may be a pad fitment issue, where the pads are either too loose in the caliper mounting, or they're vibrating too much without the backing plate and the shims, causing the squeak/squeal.

 

So now I gotta fix that. It's never ending.

 

But you're close to fixing multiple issues - which sound related to one system/assembly - so once that's fixed, you can move on to "other" things and issues you want to fix.

 

Keep us posted on how it all resolves.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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Yeah the squeak went away when I was driving it this evening. I did spray the rotors with brake cleaner and all that so maybe some was still on their (I know it drys fast) but it has completely stopped squeaking.

 

I just used my hand to feel the heat difference which may not be a good comparison. The slider boots were off the slider pins and it was caked with dust/dirt so I cleaned it up and lightly sanded them and re-greased.

 

I will have to find a proper tool to test the heat coming off the rotor.

 

The car feels much peppier. There is less hesitation. I always thought I may have had a sticky caliper just never got around to taking care of it and re-greasing it.

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What works better than sandpaper on those sliders (and other similar surfaces) is 0000 steel wool. It's cheap, removes dirt, crud, rust and corrosion so easily and makes dull things shine nicely (try it on your exhaust tips with some good all-purpose cleaner). Available at Lowes

in a 12-pack for $4.00. Just make sure you get the quad zero (0000) which is the super fine version.

 

http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/041072/041072023832xl.jpg

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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I'm actually really surprised that if you had a stuck caliper you didn't notice it in other ways. Would expect some combination of noise, smell, and extreme heat. Enough heat to destroy your wheel bearings, even.
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For non-contact temp checks, you want to use some type of infrared thermometer. I've used ThermoTech products in the past and they work well. Usually $30.00 - $50.00 if you shop them. More info on the TT1022 [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012FORF6/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_3?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0012FV0YW&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0F2V7G45V0XK3E3T1BFS]here[/ame]

 

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/416VtTs83NL.jpg

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Polish up those sliders and grease up everything really well. Make sure the boots seat so when they do "bellow" they stay seated at both ends. Also, check to make sure your piston isn't hanging up too. If it is hanging, either rebuild it (more involved) or replace it with a quality rebuilt one (less involved). Depending on your mileage and how long since your last full brake bleed, may be well-worth doing a full bleed/refill on your brake system.
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I was going to try Napa's "Eclipse" brand Re manufactured calipers.

 

I did clean up the sliders and all that. It feels better but I still think it is freezing up. So I may just spend the 113 on Napa's second Saturday to get fresh ones.

 

I did a bleed the same day I pulled the calipers off. I have been using ATE Superblue.

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  • 4 months later...

I cannot for the life of me figure out what in the hell is with my car. I have had bad vibrations on the freeways for about 3 months now. Thought it was because of the bent rims and seriously unevenly worn tires. But now I have the brand spankin new rims and tires on and it still does it.

 

Not only do I Feel it in the wheel I feel it in the seat of my pants. My wheel bearings were all tested and checked out. Going to get new reman calipers Friday to see if that's the case. I already tried to grease them up before and no difference. Other then that I am at a total loss as to what the hell is happening.

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I thought you solved your issue when you greased up your brakes?

 

I'm having a death vibration on mine....rear diff carrier bushings are shot

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I know you said you greased the brakes, but I did that on my wife's 99 and we would still get a "shimmy" on the interstate on occasion. It was hit or miss, but when it happened, it would only really be felt in the steering wheel.
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The drive shaft is two-pieces and the "carrier bearing" is the support bearing where the shaft from the transmission and the shaft from the rear diff, join. Known vibration issue when it's going bad.

 

Presume that you also checked your alignment when you replaced the rims/tires. Too much toe in at one end and too much toe out at the other end or too much at either end can cause vibration issues (and noise) too.

- Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum -
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