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Mike,

I'm thinking of going Stage 2+. At over 173k, I did compression check, spec, are 141psi to 171psi, at 350 RPM's with no greater then 7 psi between cylinders. Starter must be getting weak. With Battery fully charged & a charger set on 225A "Start", the motor only turn 286rpm, 1) 145psi, 2)150psi, 3)145psi, 4)147psi. How much will only turning 286 rpm, instead of 350 rpm effect my compression test.

 

Mike

 

Well, 171psi is pretty darn high! I've never seen that on any subies. Generally you want to look at the delta of the PSI that you are testing. I believe subaru specifies 3-5% delta across them. So if you are seeing more than about 4-7psi you probably have a bad cylinder. Generally if you have a bad one it will be like 50psi v. 120-150psi for all the others.

 

-mike

 

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The spec. came from ALLDATA,

 

http://www.alldatadiy.com/includes/img/header/alldata.gif

 

Leading source of Online Diagnostic & Repair Information

 

Your Vehicle: 2005 Subaru Legacy F4-2.5L DOHC Turbo

Specifications Compression Pressure

Compression pressure (350 rpm and Throttle fully open):

 

Standard 981 - 1,177 kPa (10 - 12 kg/cm2, 142 - 171 psi)

Difference between cylinders 49 kPa (0.5 kgf/cm2, 7 psi) or less

 

© 2011 ALLDATA, LLC. All Rights Reserved.

 

The motor turning only 286 rpm, instead of 350 rpm. Would that make a big difference in my compression test data?

Mike

Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold

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The difference in RPM isn't a big deal as long as you compare the difference between cylinders.

 

Most compression tools are actually not very precise so don't trust the scale - just the difference between cylinders.

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The difference in RPM isn't a big deal as long as you compare the difference between cylinders.

 

Most compression tools are actually not very precise so don't trust the scale - just the difference between cylinders.

 

I think you mean the compression tools aren't very accurate. But I'd hope they are precise from what you are talking about. Optimally, it would be precise and accurate.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Not necessarily. I didn't have any misfires on my #4 ringland failure. I don't even know how long it had been that way. I had low compression and consumed 1Q every 700 miles, yet it dynoed fine and had no misfire or other CEL codes...

 

This is where I am right now.

 

153k miles, using a quart every 750 miles. Black, sooty exhaust pipes, but no smoke on acceleration or overrun, no leaks, plenty of power, original clutch -- so no rear seal leaks, etc...

 

I never thought to check the inside of the intercooler for signs of an oil leak from the turbo. But either way, whatever the problem, I'm going to have it fixed.

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I think you mean the compression tools aren't very accurate. But I'd hope they are precise from what you are talking about. Optimally, it would be precise and accurate.

 

They are usually not very well-calibrated but at least they are usually not varying much between tests.

 

So if it says 9 on the scale it can well be a pressure of 9 hens instead of 9 lbs or 9 bars.

 

So don't pay much attention to anything else than the difference between the cylinders. That's the most telling part.

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Ok,

 

Did compression test.

 

Result: 120, 90, 90, 110.

 

Also, even though I told the mechanic it did not smoke. He got it to smoke by revving it past 5000 rpm in the morning.

 

So the verdict is that I need to rebuild a 90k mile engine. even though this looks bad, I still love my car.

 

Since I will be pulling down the engine. Can anyone recommend upgrade to the internals? Cosworth maybe :)....

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Ok,

 

Did compression test.

 

Result: 120, 90, 90, 110.

 

Also, even though I told the mechanic it did not smoke. He got it to smoke by revving it past 5000 rpm in the morning.

 

So the verdict is that I need to rebuild a 90k mile engine. even though this looks bad, I still love my car.

 

Since I will be pulling down the engine. Can anyone recommend upgrade to the internals? Cosworth maybe :)....

What do you want from your car? Cossie stuff is way too expensive if you're not talking huge turbos.

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If you go a little further, once you did the compression check. You can put some oil in the low cylinders. I like to crank the motor over to spread the oil around & retest. If compression goes up a lot, your problem is in the rings & pistons. If it don't the problem in your heads, valve, seats & steam seals.

 

Mike

Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold

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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
They just did yet another oil consumption/leak down test. I lost track which number this is. Gotta go back in another 1k. The cashier knows my first name already. No answers yet. Well, I got one. I need a clutch... I just put in all I had into a condo we bought and close in 2 weeks god willing. Last thing I need is to replace a 1 year old clutch.
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Update: once again, the subaru field technician found "nothing out of the ordinary" so there is "nothing wrong with the car save for noisy wheel bearing and clutch... Subaru offered me to upgrade the warranty to the gold plus package (7yr/100k)... includes the bearing but not the clutch... Gonna get in touch with mike to see about that clutch work...
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