Lookatmyrust Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 97 or 98 auto wagon gt Another mindless AT oil temp light flashing 16 times at start up. swapped on intakes from motor to motor and had a check engine light and AT light the moment i turned it on. when for a drive and WOT in D and the car would shift at 3500 rpm in 1 and 2 for sure. with the gear selector in 1 it would pass 3500, same in 2, N, and P. shifting just felt funny too. and the torque converter seems to lock up like on and off. i should also mention that upon first or second start i had put the FWD fuse in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 re-check all of your wiring connectors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lookatmyrust Posted June 16, 2011 Author Share Posted June 16, 2011 i have, trice now. ill get the check engine code read tomorrow. i know i have an egr code to take care of. could deleting the egr affect the AT oil temp light? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted June 16, 2011 I Donated Share Posted June 16, 2011 i have, trice now. *twice lol ill get the check engine code read tomorrow. That might be a good idea! could deleting the egr affect the AT oil temp light? Probably not. You can clear the EGR code, but it will likely just come right back. You could have some kind of speed sensor issue making your transmission go all wonky. IIRC, there are two speed sensors that go directly into the 5MT...but I'm not sure about the 4EAT. You might want to look into that. A bad speed sensor can cause problems similar to what you're having. -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 the maf will cause an AT temp light if unplugged. i did this on a test start up on an engine swap. ( i think the tps will as well.) once i connected the maf all was fine. read the engine codes and if that does help you correct it then read the trans codes. (connector B82, a 6 pin connector with only some pins in place, under the dash right of the steering column. ground out pin # 4, i think. or maybe # 6 but you cant hurt it by grounding the wrong one. they are all test pins for flashing codes of one kind or another. keep trying untill you get the AT temp light to flash. it can also do ABS codes and maybe SRS / air bag codes.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lookatmyrust Posted June 16, 2011 Author Share Posted June 16, 2011 john egg.. here is where you are after what you said and your knowlegde """ and here is me after being exposed ... .... and i mean trice. as in 3 times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lookatmyrust Posted June 16, 2011 Author Share Posted June 16, 2011 so here what i get out of it. you want me to get the pin grounded to it flashes out the codes to me.. like . . . . _ _ _ _ _ _ code #46 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 yes, but the longs are tens and they flash first and the shorts are ones and the flash second. there is a possibility that there is more than one code. and i already knew what trice meant. did you get a 46 or was that just an example?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lookatmyrust Posted June 17, 2011 Author Share Posted June 17, 2011 just example. i cant get my code read for free anymore so i gotta wait for my check and get a code reader. but it was interesting on the way to work. while accel the car was sluglish and would not rev high. and once to crusing speed at about 2250 rpm that car would gooooo then either cut out or cut for a sec or two then cut back in hard for another 2 or 3 sec and this would repeat at constant pedal pressure. though if i was speeding and going around 2800 with the torque conventer not locked up it would not do it. and another thing. if i blipped the gas when the engine cut out it would not cut out as long. and one more. if i punch the pedal to the floor nothin happens. no down shift and the torque converter will normally stay locked. pretty much like if you hit the gas in a 5 speed. motor idles very high most the time. around 1800 to 2100. rarely will in drop to the normal 600. another thing. the motor sounds great. revs great and makes great power when useing the gear selector. thats the only way i can get going into traffic. in d the car is slow as shit. and shifts way early Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 you can read the trans codes without a reader, save some money and find the fix sooner. was the intake you installed know to be good? was it working fine on your other engine before you removed it? did you disconnect or remove anything , like the TPS on the throttle body, after you qiut driving the other engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 Trouble Codes Trouble code retrieval is similar to previous models, except for grounding terminal # 5 of connector B82 a 6 pole black, right side of steering column. Trouble codes will be displayed through AT Temp light with the following differences. There are 14 possible trouble codes communicated from the TCU. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1333&d=1091550284 http://www.porcupine73.com/pics/diagrammatics/tcu-diagnosis-connector-96-1.gif http://www.porcupine73.com/pics/diagrammatics/tcu-diagnosis-connector-96-2.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lookatmyrust Posted June 17, 2011 Author Share Posted June 17, 2011 so i ground out pin 5 and start the car and the light will flash different, and hopfully flashh a code Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lookatmyrust Posted June 17, 2011 Author Share Posted June 17, 2011 you can read the trans codes without a reader, save some money and find the fix sooner. was the intake you installed know to be good? was it working fine on your other engine before you removed it? did you disconnect or remove anything , like the TPS on the throttle body, after you qiut driving the other engine? ha ha i removed everything off the manifold and took everything apart for cleaning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 the TPS is probably not adjusted correctly. maybe. page 4 in the link above has the code definitions. 22 and 23 or 31, 32, 33 are most likely. i'm betting on 31. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lookatmyrust Posted June 17, 2011 Author Share Posted June 17, 2011 i cant see those codes on those forums cause im not a member. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 sign up, it's free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lookatmyrust Posted June 17, 2011 Author Share Posted June 17, 2011 ill have to the car dont cut in and out any more. now it just has a sluggish accel while in drive and a high idle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 i have, trice now. and i mean trice. as in 3 times. and i already knew what trice meant. the goddamn word is THRICE! as in a threefold quantity or degree. thrice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lookatmyrust Posted June 17, 2011 Author Share Posted June 17, 2011 ha wow zuez Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zues Marine Posted June 17, 2011 Share Posted June 17, 2011 y'all fucked that word up thrice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lookatmyrust Posted June 18, 2011 Author Share Posted June 18, 2011 wower Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lookatmyrust Posted June 19, 2011 Author Share Posted June 19, 2011 i dont have the problems in d anymore.. car just rips right to the red. i dont know why... but then i thought. i was dicking with the TPS yesterday and never really test drove it. so whats the proper way to set the TPS? it all makes sense.. before i hit the gas and the car thinks i barly touched it and it dont down shift. now i just move my foot a little and the car zips down a gear or 2.... when using the gear selector im sure that car dont care what the tps reads as i just wants the throttle to be wide open. my idle has even gone down to 1100. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lookatmyrust Posted June 20, 2011 Author Share Posted June 20, 2011 fixed everything. swaped on another TB with TPS already on it and now the CEL and AT light turned off and stopped blinking . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 congrats!! lesson learned???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted June 20, 2011 I Donated Share Posted June 20, 2011 so whats the proper way to set the TPS? Set it "180" off. Then rotate it and bolt it in -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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