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So I have a good old 96 Legacy Brighton Wagon 4eat with a mere 96,000 miles, which I think is low considering the age. It currently has nothing aftermarket done to it but would like to make improvements to it. I plan on doing the spark plugs, wires, and getting the timing belt (along with everything that goes with the timing belt) done soon.

 

As for what I want to do,

It does need a new front bumper and I would like to install fog lights so does the legacy w/fog light bumper bolt right on or is there some modification.

 

So now the more complicated stuff.

I would like to get more power out of the car, are there any performance mods that anybody recommends,

I was also thinking it would be maybe not easier, but more efficient to do a swap for an EJ20t or EJ22t, if I did do a swap, how much modification is needed to get the motors to mount properly.

 

Is it possible to change the default power split from 90/10 to something a little more distributed say like 60/40 or so without a complete transmission replacement. How ever if I do feel like getting a new tranny or need a new one in the future, can I swap in one with VTD, like from the WRX.

 

I do want disk brakes in the back of the car but I would also like a rear diff so can I swap the rear axle out with one that has rear disk brakes and a diff.

 

Now I know this is alot of work and I am prepared for the amount of work involved,

Thanks for reading and any input.

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Also does anybody know where I can get a different gear selector, the stock one is kinda plain looking, I also like the 3 spoke look of the 05 and up steering wheel, does anybody know if these will fit or any good sites to get a good 3 spoke wheel, with or without airbag, prefer airbag.
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Read the stickies at the top of this forum labeled "Second Gen. Aftermarket Parts and Upgrade Guide" and "Second Generation Legacy Turbo FAQ". Any related information can be found in those threads.

 

Also, the 4eat has a 40/60 bias, not 90/10.

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no, the 4eat does NOT have a 40/60 bias. due to its design it is impossible for it to transmit more power to the rear than front. However it isn't 90/10 either. it "defaults" to 90/10 under normal driving, until it senses slip, than it engages a clutch pack distributing up to 50% to the rear. it calculates how much power to send rearward based on slip, throttle input, and various other factors. the only 4EAT that is different is the later model VTD and VDC cars. (the latter being the most complex in that it uses brakes to control slip as well.) These 4EAT's replace the simple transfer clutch with a Torsen type center diff with a 45/55 split. it still has the clutch to control slip but it's role is much less important. consequentially you CANNOT tow those cars with two wheels down.

 

It IS possible to swap the torsen diff assembly onto a non VTD Phase II trans, but yours is a Phase I so no luck there.

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It does need a new front bumper and I would like to install fog lights so does the legacy w/fog light bumper bolt right on or is there some modification.

 

The bumpers bolt right up, however you need the beam behind it as well

 

 

I would like to get more power out of the car, are there any performance mods that anybody recommends,

I was also thinking it would be maybe not easier, but more efficient to do a swap for an EJ20t or EJ22t, if I did do a swap, how much modification is needed to get the motors to mount properly.

 

Just about the only mods you can do for performance on your car are lightweight pulleys, msd, intake spacers, and maybe a few other little odds and ends. You're not going to get much more power out of your N/A engine.

 

Second Generation Legacy Turbo Swap FAQ

 

Click on the link above and do some reading. If you want your car to be "fast", you will have to do some kind of turbo swap. These cars are VERY fun with a turbo.

 

As far as getting the engine to mount properly, it bolts right up. However, you need to use the WRX or Turbo Legacy subframe under the engine to allow the use of turbo exhaust.

 

With that being said, you're 4EAT won't hold up very well to the power of a turbo.

 

And BTW - the EJ20 has several turbo variants. The EJ20R, EJ20H, EJ20K, EJ205, etc.

 

 

Is it possible to change the default power split from 90/10 to something a little more distributed say like 60/40 or so without a complete transmission replacement. How ever if I do feel like getting a new tranny or need a new one in the future, can I swap in one with VTD, like from the WRX.

 

Your power split changes based on whats needed. If you want to get a 50/50 power split, you will have to convert to a 5MT. The 5MT defaults to a 50/50 split

 

 

I do want disk brakes in the back of the car but I would also like a rear diff so can I swap the rear axle out with one that has rear disk brakes and a diff.

 

You want to swap for a rear axle that has a rear diff? WTF? Is there no rear diff on your car? If there is no rear diff, then you DO NOT have all wheel drive and you don't even need to worry about torque split lol.

 

With that being said, my Legacy use to have drums in the rear. It now has disk. I used the hubs / brakes from a 99 Outback.

 

I also like the 3 spoke look of the 05 and up steering wheel, does anybody know if these will fit or any good sites to get a good 3 spoke wheel, with or without airbag, prefer airbag.

 

I believe they do fit. But as for the airbag, I don't know if you can get the airbag to work correctly or not. You SHOULD be able to, but I've never done it myself.

 

 

 

Another upgrade you may want to look into doing is suspension. With this you have a few different options.

 

You can use 96-99 Legacy GT suspension, and that would be somewhat of an improvment. Or you can use 02 - 07 WRX suspension....for an even bigger upgrade....or 04 STI suspension for the biggest "stock" upgrade. Then there is also the option of coilovers. You can buy colovers for 95-99 Legacy, 02-07 WRX, or 04 STI. Any of those will fit.

-broknindarkagain

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COME AND TAKE IT

"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing."

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The bumpers bolt right up, however you need the beam behind it as well

 

 

 

 

Just about the only mods you can do for performance on your car are lightweight pulleys, msd, intake spacers, and maybe a few other little odds and ends. You're not going to get much more power out of your N/A engine.

 

Second Generation Legacy Turbo Swap FAQ

 

Click on the link above and do some reading. If you want your car to be "fast", you will have to do some kind of turbo swap. These cars are VERY fun with a turbo.

 

As far as getting the engine to mount properly, it bolts right up. However, you need to use the WRX or Turbo Legacy subframe under the engine to allow the use of turbo exhaust.

 

With that being said, you're 4EAT won't hold up very well to the power of a turbo.

 

And BTW - the EJ20 has several turbo variants. The EJ20R, EJ20H, EJ20K, EJ205, etc.

 

 

 

 

Your power split changes based on whats needed. If you want to get a 50/50 power split, you will have to convert to a 5MT. The 5MT defaults to a 50/50 split

 

 

 

 

You want to swap for a rear axle that has a rear diff? WTF? Is there no rear diff on your car? If there is no rear diff, then you DO NOT have all wheel drive and you don't even need to worry about torque split lol.

 

With that being said, my Legacy use to have drums in the rear. It now has disk. I used the hubs / brakes from a 99 Outback.

 

 

 

I believe they do fit. But as for the airbag, I don't know if you can get the airbag to work correctly or not. You SHOULD be able to, but I've never done it myself.

 

 

 

Another upgrade you may want to look into doing is suspension. With this you have a few different options.

 

You can use 96-99 Legacy GT suspension, and that would be somewhat of an improvment. Or you can use 02 - 07 WRX suspension....for an even bigger upgrade....or 04 STI suspension for the biggest "stock" upgrade. Then there is also the option of coilovers. You can buy colovers for 95-99 Legacy, 02-07 WRX, or 04 STI. Any of those will fit.

 

thanks for the info, I will start taking a look into this, what I should have said about the rear diff is that I wanted to swap it out for a limited slip diff if it is possible but that is not really a must.

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thanks for the info, I will start taking a look into this, what I should have said about the rear diff is that I wanted to swap it out for a limited slip diff if it is possible but that is not really a must.

 

You can swap for a different rear diff, but you have to make sure that the final drive ratio of the front and rear match. Meaning you can't have 3.90 in the front and 4.44 in the rear.

 

I honestly believe that you should get rid of the 4EAT because its garbage. Do a 5MT swap with a matching rear diff. Then you will have the 50/50 torque split that you want, and you will have a better rear diff (if you use WRX or STI stuff)

-broknindarkagain

My Current Project - Click Here

COME AND TAKE IT

"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing."

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no, the 4eat does NOT have a 40/60 bias. due to its design it is impossible for it to transmit more power to the rear than front. However it isn't 90/10 either. it "defaults" to 90/10 under normal driving, until it senses slip, than it engages a clutch pack distributing up to 50% to the rear. it calculates how much power to send rearward based on slip, throttle input, and various other factors. the only 4EAT that is different is the later model VTD and VDC cars. (the latter being the most complex in that it uses brakes to control slip as well.) These 4EAT's replace the simple transfer clutch with a Torsen type center diff with a 45/55 split. it still has the clutch to control slip but it's role is much less important. consequentially you CANNOT tow those cars with two wheels down.

 

It IS possible to swap the torsen diff assembly onto a non VTD Phase II trans, but yours is a Phase I so no luck there.

 

This is all pretty much correct. Great post.

 

The one error, is in terminology. The VTD/VDC cars don't use a Torsen type diff. They use a planetary arrangement. Torsen is the name of a brand, and they use worm-gears that bias torque mechanically. The planetary requires the clutch packs to be able to meter bias.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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Stock for stock, i agree the 5MT is better than the 4eat. but with upgrades the 4EAT can take more power and put it down just fine. (Tony Rigoli Performance has put over 600HP through it in an 8.3sec drag car) also, if you DO do a 5MT swap, it is important to test the Viscous Coupling, they can be overheated very easily if they are abused (towing wheels down or even highway driving with a low tire) and once overheated they have to be replaced.
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IIRC the diff in the VDC/VTD doesn't require the clutch pack for the bias, the clutch it has just allows it to vary between 45/55 and 50/50. in this thread: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f89/mpt-vtd-conversion-37441/ The OP is running the VTD diff with the clutch disconnected and it still works just fine.

 

Also my eariler statement about the Viscous Coupling goes double for the VC Limited Slip units in the subaru diff. they burn out quite easily.

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That's correct. It requires the clutch pack to vary bias, and in normal operation, that clutch pack is working like crazy.

 

You can run with the clutch pack offline, and there is a fundamental bias associated with the design of the diff.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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Also does anybody know where I can get a different gear selector, the stock one is kinda plain looking,

 

 

on ebay, theres an AT transmission gear selector made by NOKYA, i had one and it fit and worked great:

 

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t232/wakeboardingguy/100_0112.jpg

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you can get a 50 / 50 split in a 90 - 99 4eat but it requires cutting the power to the duty c solenoid. and if left on long term it can damage the trans / drive train. in addition to giving you a 50 / 50 split it also gives you torque bind.

 

auto trans are better for towing trailers, i hear.

 

and since i'm a ''limp wristed'' auto trans driver, i think all you guys who believe ''real men shift gears'' are compensating for your ''short comings''. and women know it. :eek:

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and since i'm a ''limp wristed'' auto trans driver, i think all you guys who believe ''real men shift gears'' are compensating for your ''short comings''. and women know it. :eek:

 

Well, that is an ignorant comment.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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This is all great info, since the car is needing suspestion very soon I will probably swap all the suspestion out for either the wrx or sti suspestion, depending on what I can get my hands on. Since I was planning on at least doing my front brakes this weekend, rotors and all, I was thinking of doing a swap on this also. So I was wondering what pads and rotors will fit with out modification.
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Depends on your wheel size.

 

If you have 16's, you can get calipers, pads, and rotors from a WRX and bolt them right on. It's a really cheap mod.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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Also, the 4eat has a 40/60 bias, not 90/10.

 

 

Wrong. the 5eat has the 45/55 split. the 4eat has always been 90/10 up untill recently when they also got the VTD. the 2nd gen cars were 90/10 in the 4eat.

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Wrong. the 5eat has the 40/60 split. the 4eat has always been 90/10

 

Not always. You can get the 4EAT with the VTD center "diff".

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
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Well, that is an ignorant comment.

 

i guess you missed the humor in it then.

 

the point being that arguments can be made for both the auto trans and the manual trans being better or worse. it is a matter of perspective and preference. but this is an argument that no one can win. there is nothing i can say that will change your mind if you believe autos are less than manuals.

 

not a big deal, each to his own.

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Alright. I remember reading a thread back when I first joined up and we got talking about auto vs manual in turbo applications, and I thought someone mentioned that the 4EAT had the better power split because it did way better than a 5MT WRX in the snow, but I guess I was mistaken. My bad.

 

-- Sent from my Palm Pixi using Forums

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so this wasn't originally on my list but I just found a deal on a 99 outback dash, and since the brington did not come with a tachometer, this does have a tach, will they swap fairly easilly, and I know that subaru likes to run all their wires, even if they don't get used so I am assuming there is going to be a tach wire behind the dash some where.
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on ebay, theres an AT transmission gear selector made by NOKYA, i had one and it fit and worked great:

 

http://i161.photobucket.com/albums/t232/wakeboardingguy/100_0112.jpg

 

Hey Zues, this picture is of an AT? The knob does nothing else but change the looks?

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so after all this reading i figured it would be best to do a swap, so i will be looking for a broken wrx for sale, or just buy the parts separately, are there any specific years I need to look at for a wrx swap, i'm guessing an 02-07 would be the target years, also do all of the needed parts from the target years, like the engine, tranny, exhaust ect. match up with each other, thanks for all the help.
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