Baddog Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 I plan on picking up some projectors this friday. Does all the wiring look like it's there? http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz223/Baddog909/cid_172.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 Yep you have both sides of the harness which is nice. Cut the plug on your car side and solder the JDM connector on like the sl-i DIY shows. You are missing the turn signal but you can modify the USDM one to work. -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baddog Posted May 10, 2011 Author Share Posted May 10, 2011 Yep you have both sides of the harness which is nice. Cut the plug on your car side and solder the JDM connector on like the sl-i DIY shows. You are missing the turn signal but you can modify the USDM one to work. The picture you attached is just a diagram of the what I will find on SL-I.net right? I always get too much info and my head explodes. Yeah I saw what I can do about the USDM one. Just cut a certain corner of it off right? Is that what you were referring too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 That diagram I made, but it is the same as the sl-i DIY. Yes thats what I was talking about with the turn signal. The wiring is not that hard as some people make it sound. -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baddog Posted May 10, 2011 Author Share Posted May 10, 2011 It looks like a simple cut and slice procedure to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted May 10, 2011 I Donated Share Posted May 10, 2011 It looks like a simple cut and slice procedure to me. I've learned to expect to run into some kind of problem whenever I work on a car lol. I did brakes on an Audi S4 the other day...After I put the new pads on, the wheels wouldn't fit on anymore because the caliper sat further out with the thicker pads lol -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camroncamera Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 You are in luck if both projector housings include the complete white connector. Mine was complete on one side only. In fact, if you decide to bypass that connector for any reason, I'd love to buy one or both off of you since I'm local (you are welcome to check out my setup as well to see how I did it). I'd be willing to purchase JDM projector connectors from anyone else out there who might be willing to ship to Portland Metro area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baddog Posted May 10, 2011 Author Share Posted May 10, 2011 What would be the benefit to bypass the connector? If any? I am not big on electrical by any means. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted May 10, 2011 I Donated Share Posted May 10, 2011 What would be the benefit to bypass the connector? If any? I am not big on electrical by any means. Not really any benefit or downfall to it. You just use wire connectors instead of a plug. Thats how mine are wired in. I guess the only possible downside to it is that if you ever have to remove the housing, you have to cut the wires instead of just unplugging a clip -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TbirdMan Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 Another option is to make an adapter by either buying a male 9004/9007 plug or just breaking the bulb off of your existing bulbs and soldering to the contacts inside, that way you aren't cutting up your stock harness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camroncamera Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 A few ways to connect the JDM projectors to the USDM car wiring: 1. Cut off H4 (Pre-1998?) or 9007 (1998+) headlight connector from USDM car wiring. Cut off 4-contact white connector from JDM Projector. Solder car wiring directly to corresponding projector wiring. This would be the most direct connection (best for getting as much power as possible to your bulbs), but would be rather permanent. Probably pretty fussy to solder wire-to wire like this. OR 2. Cut off headlight connector from USDM car wiring. Cut off 4-contact white connector from JDM Projector. Solder insulated Quick-Disconnect male connectors to each JDM Projector wire. Solder insulated Quick-Disconnect female connectors to each USDM headlight wire. Connect JDM wire connectors to corresponding USDM connectors. Almost as direct of a connection as a hard-wired one, but allows easy headlight removal. Must match up corresponding wires with each subsequent reconnection. Use a "Label Baby, Jr." to keep your wires in order. OR 3. If your projectors came with BOTH the JDM male plug and JDM female socket with a wire pigtail, you may: Cut off headlight connector from USDM car wiring. (Do NOT cut off 4-contact white connector from JDM Projector.) Solder insulated Quick-Disconnect male connectors to each JDM Projector pigtail wire. Solder insulated Quick-Disconnect female connectors to each USDM headlight wire. Solder insulated Quick-Disconnect male connectors to each JDM pigtail wire. Connect JDM pigtail wire connectors to corresponding USDM connectors. Allows quick removal of projectors using the JDM connector, which is retained on both the male and female sides. More connectors means more resistance. Quick disconnect wires could still be mixed up at some point. You could optionally hard-wire the JDM female connector to the USDM car wiring, but you would not be able to easily switch back to USDM lights later on. OR 4. Cut off headlight connector from USDM car wiring. Disconnect the two JDM connector parts and set the female socket aside for safekeeping. (Do NOT cut off 4-contact white connector from JDM Projector.) Solder insulated Quick-Disconnect female connectors to each USDM headlight wire. Connect individual USDM wire female connectors to corresponding male contacts in JDM connectors. Less soldering, so this is a faster install. The female Quick-Disconnect connectors individually placed in the JDM connector are not truly weather-sealed when connected in this way, and these connections may corrode over time. You must use *insulated* female Quick-Disconnect connectors. Uninsulated connectors would be too easy to short out when placed in the JDM male connector so close to each other. OR 5. Using the JDM female connector and pigtail, along with a male H4 connector (pre-1998) or hard-to-find male 9007 connector (1998+), solder together a JDM-to-USDM adapter harness. This might be the easiest method to connect and disconnect JDM projectors and allows the car wiring to remain completely stock, but all the connectors are hard to come by to make a complete adapter. This also places additional wiring inline to the projector lamps, creating more resistance. If well-made, resistance is probably negligible. Some additional variations can be done as well such as converting the JDM projectors to male 9007-style connectors to connect to stock USDM wiring, grounding the low-beams to remain on while the high-beams are active, making provisions for the city light, etc. Good thread here on using male 9007 connectors: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/electrical-wiring-help-149486.html?p=3374649#post3374649 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TbirdMan Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 the male 9007 connector is not really hard to find, several web sites sell them, but I just made mine with my old bulbs. break off the bulb and solder to the three tabs in there. for now they are sealed up with electrical tape, but i plan to use some epoxy when i re-do the adapter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dante2699yahoo.com Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 Ok. I'm tryin to figure out why my high beams stay on half powered when the low beams are on...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TbirdMan Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 double check your wiring. you should have a single +12V line and two grounds coming from the switch. one ground goes to your lows the other to the highs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lojasmo Posted May 10, 2011 Share Posted May 10, 2011 Looks like you have a USDM pigtail soldered in. Should be able to simply match colors up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raugur33 Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 Where are you guys getting your JDM projectors? Is there a better/cheaper source other than ebay? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camroncamera Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 ebay for me. Mine came with a bonus RFRB grille in excellent condition, it almost made up for the crazy shipping costs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lojasmo Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 Got mine from eBay. $89+$99 shipping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TbirdMan Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 yeah that seems to be the going price, though if you can manage to find a vendor selling both heads and fogs like i did you might be able to cut a deal, $250 for both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raugur33 Posted May 11, 2011 Share Posted May 11, 2011 Yeah, its the shipping that is annoying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lupton Posted April 27, 2018 Share Posted April 27, 2018 Assuming this thread is dead but just curious: Is there any way to wire the headlights so that the highbeams stay on at 50% for the DRL, then have them turn off when turning the low-beams on? That seems to be the standard for projector headlights, but with these the low-beams are always on. If possible, I'd like to have my high-beam (at 50%) and some angel eyes on as my DRLs. Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
choover1101 Posted April 27, 2018 Share Posted April 27, 2018 You could do that using relays and resistors and a diode. Install a normal-on relay directly to the high beam with a resistor before it to cut the power going to the high beams and a diode so the power from the regular bigh beam wouldn't be affected by the resistor. Then connect the switching side to the low beams and when you turn them on they would cut the high beams off. Then when you turned on the high beams they would work as normal. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lupton Posted April 29, 2018 Share Posted April 29, 2018 Thanks for the quick reply, I appreciate the useful information. A second thought I had after posting was to have just the halo LEDs (or angel eyes) be on as the DRL's without the lowbeam being on. Then, have the lowbeam turn on normally when turning on the headlights. I've already cut the old harness off the car and soldered the wires to the JDM harness, but I'm willing to make changes if the above is possible! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
choover1101 Posted April 30, 2018 Share Posted April 30, 2018 If the halos arent directly wired to the low beams on the headlight assembly you could get an "add a fuse" to plug into a key on fuse in the underhood fuse box and run a power from there to the halo. This would turn on the halos anytime they key is on. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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