kongzilla Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 Car is a 07 OB XT 5 speed. -car is stock Bought the AP used. Installed it and it worked great. It asked for me to over write something and I did. Tried to uninstall it but I couldn't. Talked to Cobb Tech Support and the tech said that my ECU was flashed once with a stage 1 map previously and I have over written it causing my ECU to lock. Cobb says send it in and they reflash it so it'll be like I'm installing a new AP again. I'd have to install a stage II map then uninstall it so I could go back to a stock ECU setting. Flashed a stage II map and immediately uninstalled the AP. Uninstalled successful but now I can't get more then 10 lbs of boost. re Installed stage 1 map and still same boost level. Felt no difference in power. Switched it between real time and flash and no difference. Uninstalled the AP again and still the same issue. I also tried reseting the ECU and still the same problem. OB is going into service tomorrow at dealer. Will probably just let dealer look into it and try to get a warranty deal out of it. Any idea's on what it could be? Car was boosting fine and pulled real strong. Then unistalled the AP and now its not boosting past 10 lbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnAWD Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 I'd start debugging by checking the ECU for any stored codes. What's stock boost pressure for an 07? My '05 LGT was around 12-12.5. What was the "something" you were asked to overwrite? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kongzilla Posted April 1, 2011 Author Share Posted April 1, 2011 Not sure what the stock boost is but im sure its not 10lbs. It stated that there was another map and if I wanted to continue I would over write the previouse one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_sharp Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 Stock is 13 or 14 psi. This is Cobbs problem, make them fix it. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rock2534 Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 I wouldn't tell the dealer about your flashing/reflasing of the ecu if you want them to be very helful. Just play dumb and say "the vtec ain't boostin yo!", or some variation of that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kongzilla Posted April 1, 2011 Author Share Posted April 1, 2011 Stock is 13 or 14 psi. This is Cobbs problem, make them fix it. Thanks. If the dealer can't find whats wrong with it, I'll talk to Cobb. Maybe they'll give me a new turbo and a new ECU? I wouldn't tell the dealer about your flashing/reflasing of the ecu if you want them to be very helful. Just play dumb and say "the vtec ain't boostin yo!", or some variation of that! Took my car in for some tranny whine while coasting. Dealer has to take apart the tranny. They will claim it under warranty. I then told them I tried to pass a truck on the freeway and the car felt really slow. I noticed on my boost gauge that it was only reading 10 lbs of boost pressure. It felt like driving a natural aspirated car. The service writer gave me this look , and said "so its slow then or you felt loss of power?". I said yeah. 2 hrs later they came to me and said the tranny has to be taken apart. Then handed me a key for a rental for a 2011 Outback. Pretty clean but drives no where as smooth as my OB. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 Stock is 13 or 14 psi. This is Cobbs problem, make them fix it. AFAIK the AP takes a copy of the map that was on the car. That way whatever version you had from your dealer is still there in the AP memory if/when you decide to go back to stock. You are not stuck with a generic stock tune, you have whatever stock tune was on the ECU when the marriage ceremony took place (AP marrying). If you had some other tune on the car when you installed the AP, then that is what the AP put in its memory, and that is now what you put back on the car. I don't think this is COBB's fault at all. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kongzilla Posted April 1, 2011 Author Share Posted April 1, 2011 After receiving my AP from Cobb, when I installed it, it confirmed my vehicle but it didn't save my original map like it did the first time. It just asked to over write then installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wpmarky Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 +1 to what LBGT said. Yes it overwrites your current rom, but it also saves it first so that it has something to go back to when it is uninstalled. If there was an economap on your car when you first flashed with the cobb, that may have been what was saved into the AP. Then when you uninstall it, the economap gets loaded back on cuz that's what the AP first saw when it was installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kongzilla Posted April 1, 2011 Author Share Posted April 1, 2011 It usually takes about a Minuit to save the original file. In this case, it didn't even save, it went right to flashing a stage II map. I unistalled the unit just fine after that. I then installed a stage 1 map after noticing that my car was off. It shows that its saving the ECU map then it flashes the stage 1 map. There is no change even with a stage 1 map installed. The car acts the same. No cells or anything. Car drives normal except when your flooring it, it doesn't see full boost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 It usually takes about a Minuit to save the original file. In this case, it didn't even save, it went right to flashing a stage II map. I unistalled the unit just fine after that. I then installed a stage 1 map after noticing that my car was off. It shows that its saving the ECU map then it flashes the stage 1 map. There is no change even with a stage 1 map installed. The car acts the same. No cells or anything. Car drives normal except when your flooring it, it doesn't see full boost. Can you log anything for us? Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kongzilla Posted April 1, 2011 Author Share Posted April 1, 2011 The car is currently at the dealer for doing warranty work on the tranny. They are supposed to look into no boost also. But I did save a log of boost pressure when I was trying to figure what my max boost is. Don't know if that will tell you anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 Maybe, depends what you logged. Post it up. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kongzilla Posted April 7, 2011 Author Share Posted April 7, 2011 Don't know if this works or not.datalog1.csv Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithk831 Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 So you're hitting just under 13psi in what looks to be 2nd gear. That looks stock to me since the stock tune peaks at 13.5psi. Do a 3rd gear pull...that's easier to read, and you'll likely hit 13.5 there. Your dynamic advance (IAM) is .62, which means you've got some learned knock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kongzilla Posted April 10, 2011 Author Share Posted April 10, 2011 Thanks Keith. Its also the same even on a stage one. I'll try a third gear pull when I get a chance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithk831 Posted April 10, 2011 Share Posted April 10, 2011 Stage 1 supposedly boosts a little higher...like 1psi higher (at least on Cobb's maps it does). Oh, to live at sea level! I'm hitting just under 17psi here (4500ft). But I can run more timing to compensate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 When DAM drops below .35, the ECU disables boost control, leaving you with about 10psi. That might be what happened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithk831 Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 When DAM drops below .35, the ECU disables boost control, leaving you with about 10psi. That might be what happened. This is true. Happened to me once (I was boosting like 9psi). But his IAM isn't that low. At least right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 When DAM drops below .35, the ECU disables boost control, leaving you with about 10psi. That might be what happened. Assuming OEM settings .35, yes. But that can easily be changed, and may have been. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kongzilla Posted April 14, 2011 Author Share Posted April 14, 2011 How do you change that? Is it safe to do so? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithk831 Posted April 14, 2011 Share Posted April 14, 2011 How do you change that? Is it safe to do so? Don't change it unless you really know what you're doing. It's there for a reason. If your IAM is that low, you have bigger problems at hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kongzilla Posted April 14, 2011 Author Share Posted April 14, 2011 I still have to do some 3rd gear pulls for logs. Have to wait till people go night night first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted April 15, 2011 Share Posted April 15, 2011 But his IAM isn't that low. At least not anymore. Fixed that for you. But, as LittleBlueGT said, the threshold can be changed, and it might have been changed to .75 or .9 or something like that. I am just guessing, admittedly. But it's very possible. How do you change that? Is it safe to do so? How do you change IAM? That depends what caused it to drop. It should stay at 1.0 all the time (or 16, on older Subarus). Usually the fix will be to change the tune, change the fuel (higher octane) or fix a mechanical problem. I don't know what caused yours to drop, so I don't know how to fix it. How do you change the level at which IAM causes boost cut? It's one of the parameters you can adjust in the tune. I think it's perfectly safe to increase this value - I have the threshold set to 0.9 or something like that, so that if IAM drops from 1.0, I'll know right away. But lowering the threshold would just make it easier to kill the motor, so don't do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kongzilla Posted April 18, 2011 Author Share Posted April 18, 2011 I re installed my HKS BOV and changed a vacuum hose and the car is boosting at 15 lbs again. Not sure if it was the BOV or the vacuum hose. There is a vacuum hose right behind the alternator with a little white plastic round pill. I attached my boost gauge line there. Last night I completely removed that white pill and attached a solid one piece hose to the T fitting. Now the vacuum reads at 26 and boost all the way to 15lbs. Not sure if the car is faster now or its just a smooth pull. What is the vacuum supposed to be at? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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