Installation of factory navigation into non-nav car

[ssbtech]

Is it bad practice to simply solder the wires to the terminals, though? I don't need a pig-tail harness. I'd like to have single continuous wires.

 

I plan on twisting the pair of CAN wires, and securing the twist with short lengths of heat shrink. Everything else will be run straight.

 

One possibility is to order terminal pin ends and receptacle ends, and a DIFFERENT 22 pin connector.

 

Then, de-pin the car side connector, plug them into my other 22-pin connector, and build my extension harness that way. It's not as clean, and much more time consuming, but it's an option.

 

 

Cutting the car's wires and putting your own connectors on sort of defeats to the desire to not cut up the car's wires.

 

My only worry is this:

 

You have the combination meter wires and connector coming from the bulkhead harness. I'm assuming you want to tap into this for the speed signal.

 

This is the i10 connector, correct? I'll go with that for now.

 

If you want to avoid vampire taps (I don't blame you), you need to build a "T harness". i10 on the wiring harness is female, correct? (The combination meter connector should be male).

 

 

 

This is where "wire to wire" and "wire to board" connectors screw with us.

 

i10 is likely just a "wire to board" connector. The wires coming from the vehicle's bulkhead harness have female terminals crimped on to the end of them and the combination meter has PCB mounted male terminals pre-formed into the connector housing. These are usually not removable from the housing unlike the female terminals.

 

To tap into the i10 connection, you would need to build the following:

 

A T harness with a male connector and a female connector. Male plugs into the existing wiring harness, female plugs into the back of the combination meter.

 

The wires you don't need to tap into pass directly from the female to male terminals, simply passing the vehicle's wires to the combination meter.

 

The wires you do need to tap into are the ones you can join together at a third connector.

 

So to make the T harness you will need male terminals and housing to connect to the wire coming from the car, and female terminals and housing to plug into the back of the combination meter.

 

If those connectors are only offered as "wire to board", then you probably won't find the required male terminals since they are only available in the PCB mount housing.

 

 

Am I as clear as mud yet?

[Windy Road]

I'd love a list of the wires you tapped if you have it!

 

I have all the diagrams, the whole FSM's actually.

 

How'd you tap the CAN wires behind the dash? Just vampire tap them? I'm trying my hardest to avoid that if possible.

 

 

I had a list of the wires their colors, what pin they needed to go to and every thing. I hope I have it some where.

 

I used vampire taps for the can bus and the two splices in the kick panels. I should take them out and solder them like every thing else I do but I've been to lazy to take the whole interior apart again.

[BAC5.2]

Ssbtech - I once broke open an ECU and desoldered the pins to the connector. Then I soldered the snipped wires from a harness I got out of the same car to the pins on the back of the connector. Worked flawlessly for years. I'm thinking that might be the way to go. Sure is a lot of work for 2 wires.

 

I think my best bet might be to find out what other Subaru models use the i10 and see if I can get the gauge cluster and a snip of the harness.

[ssbtech]

You may also be able to order the male connector from Tyco and do as you did with the ECU connector.

 

I'm perhaps a little more picky, I much prefer to to have wires untapped, unspliced all the way through to the crimp. Different strokes I suppose

[BAC5.2]

I would only have a single splice though. I'd be soldering the harness directly through. No intermediate steps or anything. The splice points would be on the CAN H/L lines feeding directly to the Nav screen.

 

My extension harness would be soldered directly to the pin cuts on the back of the female receptacle (the part cut free from a cluster).

 

This is frustrating as hell trying to find the connectors for the combination meter. I'm gonna swing by a local place tomorrow and try to see if they have a gauge cluster.

 

Or, I could just de-pin the CAN wires, and make miniature extension "T" harnesses. It's slightly less plug-and-play, but it's easier than trying to find a stupid connector that doesn't exist. I could get any male/female plug set and put it together really. I just need to figure out what size the female pins on the combination meter are.

[ssbtech]

I think you hit on a better idea.

 

Instead of re-wiring and soldering all of the pins on i10, you could simply tap into the ones you need (perhaps strip 1/2" jacket from it and solder onto it instead of cut it). That way you could use some heat-shrink tubing on it (you'd have to remove the pin from the connector to get the heat shrink on it.)

 

This way you could have the wires you need attached to the factory wires serving i10 without having to cut the factory wires.

 

The two wires don't have to be too long as you can terminate them with a different connector altogether. I like to use the Molex Mini-Fit Jr. connectors and you can get the connector housings in 2-24 circuits. Those are what I am using for my carputer.

[BAC5.2]

I was really hoping to not solder to the car harness, but that seems like the best solution. Bummer.

[ssbtech]

which signals are you trying to tap into behind the gauges?

[SVXdc]

This thread by KKhiedr may be the one you were looking for:

What are the minimum required wires to have the oem navigation work

If you can post a picture of the i10 harness, I may be able to help track down the connectors.

 

If you try to order those parts that have a 10 week turnaround, in many cases they'll come back and tell you there's a 10,000 or 50,000 piece minimum

 

For most of these harnesses, you do need the specific crimp tool (which are very expensive). There's a different tool or die for each different connector family (and in many cases, different tools for the male and female pins). A generic tool simply won't work. For some families, the crimp tool forms the rear of the pin into a precise shape that keeps the front (contact) part correctly aligned in the shell. There's no way you can do that with pliers.

 

With some families, 18 gauge wire won't fit (let alone 16 gauge). Subaru uses 20 gauge in many of the connectors, especially the newer, more dense ones.

 

+1 on what ssbtech said about wire-to-board connectors -- some are only available in PC board-mount form. I ran into that with the i85 socket (used for the aux input and steering wheel control wires).

 

Before you decide to make a T-harness for a connector that has a lot of pins (or decide to splice into the factory harness), make sure there's not a harness with a smaller connector that has some of the signals you need.

 

ADDED: With some parts, although they're made by Tyco, they were commissioned by Subaru and are "restricted" -- meaning not available to anyone else but Subaru. i10 may fall into that category.

[ssbtech]

Have you removed the gauges yet to see what the connector looks like? Perhaps there's a part number or manufacturer stamped into it somewhere.

 

Once you find that you may be able to find mating male connectors and terminals so you can make a T harness.

[ssbtech]

+1 on what ssbtech said about wire-to-board connectors -- some are only available in PC board-mount form. I ran into that with the i85 socket (used for the aux input and steering wheel control wires).

 

I noticed that on my i85 aux-in adapter! But it works great

 

 

ADDED: With some parts, although they're made by Tyco, they were commissioned by Subaru and are "restricted" -- meaning not available to anyone else but Subaru.

 

Seems a little silly? I wonder if i10 is one of those restricted connectors.

 

 

Shameless hijack:

What I would like is to find out the part number of the pins that mate with the OP connector.

 

I have the OP connector breakout adapter cable (T harness) but again I would like to avoid soldering onto the wires from that and simply crimp my own ends (for powering my carputer).

[BAC5.2]

This thread by KKhiedr may be the one you were looking for:

What are the minimum required wires to have the oem navigation work

If you can post a picture of the i10 harness, I may be able to help track down the connectors.

 

The i10 looks like the attached photo. It's green. I didn't check to see how many pins are populated though.

 

If you try to order those parts that have a 10 week turnaround, in many cases they'll come back and tell you there's a 10,000 or 50,000 piece minimum

 

I was running into that issue trying to get the receptacles for the connectors I ordered. The smallest number I could order was 89 of them for $15.13 + unknown shipping (onlinecomponents pulls a McMaster on you, where they don't calculate shipping). The 89 of them was due to the minimum $15 order.

 

For most of these harnesses, you do need the specific crimp tool (which are very expensive). There's a different tool or die for each different connector family (and in many cases, different tools for the male and female pins). A generic tool simply won't work. For some families, the crimp tool forms the rear of the pin into a precise shape that keeps the front (contact) part correctly aligned in the shell. There's no way you can do that with pliers.

 

I don't think that's the case here. At least with the back of the screen connectors. Someone recently sold a Nav screen with a custom harness, and he did't mention needing an expensive crimp tool to build it. But that is really interesting information. Sounds like a cool idea from an engineering standpoint (the wire only fits the connector if it's properly crimped, which reduces the possibility of error), but a total PITA for consumer modification.

 

With some families, 18 gauge wire won't fit (let alone 16 gauge). Subaru uses 20 gauge in many of the connectors, especially the newer, more dense ones.

 

Excellent. I'm going to order wire later today. I shouldn't need more than 20 feet. I'll go with 20 gauge Silicone coated wire.

 

+1 on what ssbtech said about wire-to-board connectors -- some are only available in PC board-mount form. I ran into that with the i85 socket (used for the aux input and steering wheel control wires).

 

Before you decide to make a T-harness for a connector that has a lot of pins (or decide to splice into the factory harness), make sure there's not a harness with a smaller connector that has some of the signals you need.

 

It sounds like this is the wrong way to approach this then.

 

The only wires I need off of the i10 are the CAN High and Low.

 

ADDED: With some parts, although they're made by Tyco, they were commissioned by Subaru and are "restricted" -- meaning not available to anyone else but Subaru. i10 may fall into that category.

 

I can understand vendor NDA's, but I feel like I would have gotten the same response had I asked for the connectors that attach to the NAV screen, which are readily available. It just seemed like they were unwilling to help.

[feelander]

I was running into that issue trying to get the receptacles for the connectors I ordered. The smallest number I could order was 89 of them for $15.13 + unknown shipping (onlinecomponents pulls a McMaster on you, where they don't calculate shipping). The 89 of them was due to the minimum $15 order.

 

You can actually order samples of up to 10 directly from Tyco. I have done this numerous times for various projects.

 

The back of screen connectors are easily found because they are used in multiple Kenwood devices. But the i10 connector may be proprietary to Subaru.

[ssbtech]

The combination meter connection might not be a Tyco connector.

 

It's a long shot, but here's a well illustrated sumitomo catalog PDF

 

When you do see what i10 looks like, take a photo of it. The catalog has photo-quality renderings of each connector as well as dimensions for easier match-up.

 

 

EDIT: On second look, it doesn't seem that they have a 22way connector that matches the drawing attached above, unless the actual connector looks different from the drawing.

[feelander]

I have strong hunch, but not completely certain that the i10 connector is a JAE connector.

[BAC5.2]

I have strong hunch, but not completely certain that the i10 connector is a JAE connector.

 

I think you might be right. Part number IL-AG5-22S-D3C1 looks an awful lot like the i10 connector, right down to the color. IL-AG5-22P-D3C1 looks like it's the receptacle for the 22S. I'm not positive, but it looks pretty promising!

 

I picked up my Molex connector today, and ordered my backup camera off of eBay. I'll make the connector harness for the backup camera later today or tomorrow. I'll post pics above when I do it.

[BAC5.2]

What kind of pins will I need to order for those connectors?

[nemo]

BAC, how are you planning on mounting the backup camera? Which one did you order?

[BAC5.2]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390239262936&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

 

I ended up getting this one after reading a thread on here and seeing pictures. It actually looked really good. It was cheap ($17 shipped) and it should be durable enough. I'm going to splice into the trailer harness wiring for reverse ON power. That way the camera will only turn on when in reverse. The OE screen will automatically switch over to the camera when backing up.

 

I'm not sure how I'll mount it just yet. I forgot the handle for opening the hatch was right in the middle of the door, just where I wanted to put the camera. The license plate lights are on either side of that. So I guess I'm going to mount the camera on the passenger side of the license plate light, right in the plastic. what I'll likely do, is remove the plastic trim and drill my mounting holes. Then snake the video and power wires through the hatch following the other wires, and down into the car. I'll hook up the power wires and run the video wire up to the front of the car.

 

I'm also going to order some sound deadening material. A friend gave me some really thin stuff left over from his Jeep install. I was trying to fix a rattle in my hatch area, and since I had some of the trim out I spent 45 minutes and did the whole hatch floor. The difference in noise was astonishing. I haven't decided what to use yet. I was thinking I'd order some RAAM-Mat, but I'm not really sure how much to order just yet.

[nemo]

Wow, that is ridiculously cheap. I wonder how it will hold up to the elements! I was meaning to do a backup cam on my CarPC install but it just never panned out.

 

I'm excited to see how yours turns out.

[BAC5.2]

It was cheap enough to try. The image quality between that one, and the Kenwood one (whose model code I can't recall) was nothing. They were the same.

 

I only wish I had lines built into it. I might try to build my own "on-screen-display" interrupt, but I haven't really looked into it. I think I could use an Arduino processor and simply have it overlay parking lines on the image passing through it. It should only cost ~$30, and is something I can do later if I REALLY want to have the lines.

[BAC5.2]

My 20-pin Tyco connector showed up! No pins though, I need to get them. What a pita.

 

Ordered my wire too. 10' of black, 25' of red both 20-ga and silicone insulated.. I can't imagine needing more than that. I've used this stuff before, and it works really well for routing wires because it's extremely flexible, and really durable. The coating doesn't really wear much.

 

Since I'm losing my cubby, I am going to wire up my garage door opener to trigger off of my fog light switch. I think that's the stealthiest way to do it. I thought about the high beam trigger, but that would mean that when I drive with the high-beams on, the "button" would constantly be depressed. Unless I use a time-out relay. Hmm...

[ajiuo]

I installed a factory touchscreen on a MID equipped outback XT-L I can now say with 100% certainty that the harnesses are not preinstalled on cars that offer this as an option..

 

the worst part about the install is probably taking apart the dash... if you have an MID you also have to remove the gauge cluster to tap in to the CAN BUS

 

a lot of the lines you need already exist in the existing clock harness... but not everything. speed and can bus are behind the gauge cluster, for the IG i ran a wire to the connector in the fuze panel were it would have been from factory.. and just added the pin... The ILL wire a tapped from the stereo....

 

P.S. if you have a car with out the MID in the gauge cluster.... its a bit easer... and some of your tap locations will not be the same.

 

I did make a tap map with wire colors and every thing for the MID equipped cars if anyone needs it.

 

I was lucky... the guy who sold me my screen included the connecters and a bunch of extra pins... so I was able to make harnesses look just as they would have from the factory

[BAC5.2]

Go ahead and post it up! Pics too, if you have it!

 

What's the MID? I guess that's the Multi-Info-Display?

 

My biggest struggle is the i10 connector on the back of the gauge cluster. It's not a big hassle to remove the cluster, so I'm not worried. I just want a clean install. The only difference is that my wires won't be factory color coded.

 

I was planning on doing just what you said, and running wires directly to the fuse box for the circuits requiring that.

 

Anyone know the part numbers for the connectors at the radio? I'll need an extension harness there as well, I suppose.

[ssbtech]

I think you might be right. Part number IL-AG5-22S-D3C1 looks an awful lot like the i10 connector, right down to the color. IL-AG5-22P-D3C1 looks like it's the receptacle for the 22S. I'm not positive, but it looks pretty promising!

 

I don't know how accurate the sketch of i10 is you attached, but it looks like the JAE connector has the top guide keying in the wrong place relative to the pins.