k9t8m Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 05 LGT 5MT limited with 92k mi that needs motor and turbo for around $6000. I work at a subaru dealership so i can get the work done cheap, and on the side, and get the motor and turbo at cost. will it be worth doing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LosAngelesLGT Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 You did not post the price of the work or anything else about the car at all. No one can answer your question. EDIT: IMO hell no. If the car was worth fixing, they would fix it and sell it. If it is not worth fixing they are dumping it. If they cannot afford to fix it, they are SCREWED and you have them by the balls. Offer $3000. The car is all blowed up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Yes, it's worth it. Just plan on spending about $5000.00 for the parts you need. WRX flywheel and a good aftermarket clutch. DO NOT put a POS OEM clutch in it. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icyReaction Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 If the car was worth fixing, they would fix it and sell it. If it is not worth fixing they are dumping it. If they cannot afford to fix it, they are SCREWED and you have them by the balls. Offer $3000. The car is all blowed up. I have to disagree with you there. But then again, I'm biased, cuz I'm the guy who's selling it! I really love the car, so I'm not trying to dump it on someone else. I posted it on craigslist to weigh my options. If I don't get a high enough offer, I might as well fix it myself and drive it for another 10 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9t8m Posted February 14, 2011 Author Share Posted February 14, 2011 parts and labor will be right at $4000 with my discount, cheaper if i decide no to go with a new oem turbo. So really i would have a car thats worth somewhere in the range of $11k-$12k, but only have around $10k in it. now all i have to do is trick someone into paying thousands less than my trailblazer is actually worth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 I would not go with a oem turbo. There are better options out there that bolt on. Check the powertrain forum 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icyReaction Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Btw, the clutch was replaced at 66k. I'm quite certain it was not the OEM clutch because the owner (back then) spent $900 for it. I'm the third owner after my buddy Kris who's posted stuff on this forum about his buy. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/buying-used-2005-lgt-117039.html?t=117039 Who needs Carfax anymore! lol. Just kidding. I still have the carfax if you wanna see it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LosAngelesLGT Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 I have to disagree with you there. But then again, I'm biased, cuz I'm the guy who's selling it! I really love the car, so I'm not trying to dump it on someone else. I posted it on craigslist to weigh my options. If I don't get a high enough offer, I might as well fix it myself and drive it for another 10 years. ^Welcome to the forum/first post. Why would the seller be willing to part with 1-2 grand if they would make all that extra money? Its really this simple isn't it: parts and labor will be right at $4000 with my discount, cheaper if i decide no to go with a new oem turbo. So really i would have a car thats worth somewhere in the range of $11k-$12k, but only have around $10k in it. I would in a second pay 10% more (than the cost of buying a borked vehicle and fixing it) for a vehicle in great shape that I could actually drive and discern the issues than buy someone else's problem. IMO keep looking or buy it off the seller after they fix it for $10-11k (or offer the $3-4k the car is worth as it sits.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icyReaction Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 ^Welcome to the forum/first post. @LosAngelesLGT Thanks! I've read these forums quite a bit, but never posted. I won't argue with your reasoning because of my conflict of interest. But I can be a little more transparent about my quandary: 1) Repair it myself, and keep it for another 10 years, or 2) Sell it now at a slight loss, to buy what I really want - a hatchback. Either a Mazda Speed3, a WRX, or a GTI. All the offers for my borked Subie are from people who have cheaper access to repairs than I do. I'm looking at a worst-case quote of 5K (from Sean Gyles of vigilantmotorsports.com) for a new ShortBlock, Head R&R, gaskets, pumps, t-belt kit, turbo, downpipe, etc. with labor at 1k. This would definitely be cheaper for someone else with more time to find used/aftermarket parts, or someone with their own workshop. I also saw this as an opportunity for me to upgrade the turbo... I have the money, but not the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PoisonousBeef Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 Have to agree with LALGT that $6k is a little high on this blown up sedan. Look around - LGT's are not exactly selling for top dollar, and saying that car is worth $12k with a new motor is just being generous or at least assuming someone is going to pay near the top end of its value. IMO realistic market value of the finished car is more like $10k, maybe $11k if you have all the legit paperwork on the new motor and install. If you are looking only at the end game and going with your discounted quote, then $5k is probably not a ridiculous purchase price for you assuming you believe that there are going to be zero surprises during the repair (good luck with that). More likely, even with the discount I would, as suggested by LALGT, think of this as at best a $4k car, and plan on burning $5k-$6k to get it all in order. Not trying to slight the seller, but OP is the one asking for advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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