gimpydingo Posted March 20, 2015 Share Posted March 20, 2015 (edited) And ready to push the car into a lake. So a chunk of the gasket came off when trying to wrangle it back out...I assume it went down past the TVG's. Soooo now what? Deal with fuel rails and take off the manifold? Guess so. ARGH And any write ups on that? Can't seem to find anything complete EDIT: Since it's small and rubber it will prob burn up, worst case stuck in a valve for a few sec until it melt :/ Also looks like it was both gaskets leaking on the driver side. Ordering 2 more, since I know I'll destroy them getting them out. Any way to test for leaks before putting everything back together? Edited March 21, 2015 by gimpydingo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rip_it Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 I'll be giving this a try on saturday, hoping it solves my issues. Found sets of 4 on ebay for $17 shipped if anyones interested http://tinyurl.com/mafyuhf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 I'll be giving this a try on saturday, hoping it solves my issues. Found sets of 4 on ebay for $17 shipped if anyones interested http://tinyurl.com/mafyuhf Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hallkbrdz Posted September 5, 2015 Share Posted September 5, 2015 (edited) Just replaced the intake gaskets to try and fix a warm/hot idle p0171 problem that otherwise matched all the cold idle problems. Yes, that was it! Also - no more weird pulsing sound. I figure one of them was leaking, causing that - and that seems to have been true. Tip when assembling - use high-tack gasket spray to hold them in place while you line up the manifold with the ports. Bryan Edited September 7, 2015 by hallkbrdz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anjohn17 Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 I just replaced these gaskets on my '07. Not cold enough yet to see a change, but by looking at the difference between the old and new rings, I am sure this will be it. By the way, this job was a major PITA. It's certainly doable (with a lot of patience), but the gasket on the driver's side closest to the firewall is near impossible to reach. Once all the gaskets are out, it's a cakewalk, but until then, have something to punch in your garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GINge Posted October 20, 2015 Share Posted October 20, 2015 but until then, have something to punch in your garage. ahhah! Good to know! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silinc3r Posted October 24, 2015 Share Posted October 24, 2015 well, just completed this and the trottle body oring. Wasn't to bad of a job but I have a massive vacuum leak, it reads 0 vacuum. I torqued the mani down tot he proper 71 inch lbs but no go. PUll it back up and reinspected, all are seated into the receese and intact. Not sure what to do at this point. Silinc3r's 05 SWP GT/Spec B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 well, just completed this and the trottle body oring. Wasn't to bad of a job but I have a massive vacuum leak, it reads 0 vacuum. I torqued the mani down tot he proper 71 inch lbs but no go. PUll it back up and reinspected, all are seated into the receese and intact. Not sure what to do at this point. How much vacuum do you see when the motor is running? Hahah jk If you're getting zero vacuum it must be a huge leak. Stupid question... Is your throttle body to IC hose attached? My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silinc3r Posted October 28, 2015 Share Posted October 28, 2015 How much vacuum do you see when the motor is running? Hahah jk If you're getting zero vacuum it must be a huge leak. Stupid question... Is your throttle body to IC hose attached? And not a stupid question, but hoping it is just something stupid Yea, all is connected and tightened. I have done it 2 times now, removing checing gasket and reinstalling and nothing. I still need to give it one more try and make sure the throttle body is sitting flush. If that doesn't work, I am not sure if I should try and tighten down on the gasket till I see it get vacuum. Also the throttle body only has the oring correct? Silinc3r's 05 SWP GT/Spec B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrambles Posted October 31, 2015 Share Posted October 31, 2015 Just did this on my 2005 LGT since I got my first CEL last week when the weather dipped into the low 50s. Took about 4 hours, really not bad at all, could probably do it in 2.5 or so next time. The only pain in the ass access point was the rear inside bolt on the passenger side manifold; to get it you need to unbolt the wiring harness plastic cover behind the manifold and wedge something in there to hold it away, then nudge aside a little hose that sits directly over the bolt. Dental pick isn't expressly required but it really is the perfect tool for the job - get one with a single oblique angle, not with a 90° bend. The gasket access point is the little tab that sticks out, all of which I managed to shear off during removal but jamming a fine square-headed screwdriver into the slot let me get it started and then sliding the pick around got the rest out. New gaskets were about twice as thick as the old ones. I used my cheap hand vacuum pump to remove the coolant from the reservoir before disconnecting but still got coolant everywhere. We'll see if it solves the winter CELs or makes it idle smoother. It was a good thing to do regardless as it didn't look like the old gaskets were forming much of a seal anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnusonsubie Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 About to tackle this this afternoon. 2005 Vader Wagon Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 How did it go? Did it cure your rough idle? My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnusonsubie Posted November 12, 2015 Share Posted November 12, 2015 Haven't done a cold start yet since doing it. I'll know tomorrow morning for sure. I didn't really have a rough idle I had a bit of a stumble between 2k-3k RPM when cold. 2005 Vader Wagon Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted November 25, 2015 Share Posted November 25, 2015 Has anyone used these IM gaskets? http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop/product/sub-14075aa161-subaru-intake-manifold-to-tumbler-gasket Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaGe Posted November 28, 2015 Share Posted November 28, 2015 Are the new updated orings still orange? and does anyone have the new part numbers? Just placed the order but i did not order orings for the throttle body. ill need to get part number for that unless someone has part number for that. OTM. Sorry I didn't mean to start a war which mainly forum people is all about . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 Has anyone used these IM gaskets? http://www.rallysportdirect.com/shop/product/sub-14075aa161-subaru-intake-manifold-to-tumbler-gasket I've always wondered what those are for... are they instead of, or in addition to the orange o-rings? Are the new updated orings still orange? and does anyone have the new part numbers? When I installed new ones about a year ago they were orange. The old ones were also orange, but noticeably smaller. From the original post "The part number for the new o-rings is #14035AA492" Just placed the order but i did not order orings for the throttle body. ill need to get part number for that unless someone has part number for that. Per RockAuto.com the p/n for the TB o-ring is 16175AA331 (or 16175AA330 ?). My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnusonsubie Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 The updated IM gaskets I installed recently were orange as well and the part number StkmltS listed is correct. I still have a bit of a stumble between 2-3k on cold starts but not near as bad as it was before. Thinking it might be the fuel pump? And I have one to install in January. 2005 Vader Wagon Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted November 30, 2015 Moderators Share Posted November 30, 2015 The updated IM gaskets I installed recently were orange as well and the part number StkmltS listed is correct. I still have a bit of a stumble between 2-3k on cold starts but not near as bad as it was before. Thinking it might be the fuel pump? And I have one to install in January. I think this is the "water hammer" effect of the fuel line setup. Adding an inline filter and/or extending the fuel line in the engine bay is supposed to help I think. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 (edited) I think this is the "water hammer" effect of the fuel line setup. Adding an inline filter and/or extending the fuel line in the engine bay is supposed to help I think. It looks like there are several people who've gone through some pretty extensive (expensive) trial-and-error stuff trying to banish the stumble, and from what I've read on here and on NASIOC it seems like replacing the OEM fuel pressure regulator from an '07 or older STI fixes the stumble. Here's one of the easy-to-read threads. Adding an inline filter or extending the lines sounds like it would be a cheaper solution to accomplish the same thing, it's just not as "correct" as replacing the FPR because it doesn't address the root cause of the stumble. I'm not correcting what you said, I'm just mentioning it for the good of the generic internet population. The stumble isn't doing any damage to the motor, so it really just comes down to how much #BecauseRacecar dedication you have... and how much extra cash you have to spend on replacing something that isn't actually broken. Edited December 1, 2015 by StkmltS My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too luchadorjose Posted December 1, 2015 I Donated Too Share Posted December 1, 2015 It looks like there are several people who've gone through some pretty extensive (expensive) trial-and-error stuff trying to banish the stumble, and from what I've read on here and on NASIOC it seems like replacing the OEM fuel pressure regulator from an '07 or older STI fixes the stumble. Here's one of the easy-to-read threads. Adding an inline filter or extending the lines sounds like it would be a cheaper solution to accomplish the same thing, it's just not as "correct" as replacing the FPR because it doesn't address the root cause of the stumble. I'm not correcting what you said, I'm just mentioning it for the good of the generic internet population. The stumble isn't doing any damage to the motor, so it really just comes down to how much #BecauseRacecar dedication you have... and how much extra cash you have to spend on replacing something that isn't actually broken. What i read is that our FPR pulls a vacuum reference from the cyl4 runner, which fluctuates in pressure like crazy since it's so close to the valves. If you relocate the vaccuum reference to somewhere central to the plenum, it makes it go away Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silinc3r Posted December 2, 2015 Share Posted December 2, 2015 And not a stupid question, but hoping it is just something stupid Yea, all is connected and tightened. I have done it 2 times now, removing checing gasket and reinstalling and nothing. I still need to give it one more try and make sure the throttle body is sitting flush. If that doesn't work, I am not sure if I should try and tighten down on the gasket till I see it get vacuum. Also the throttle body only has the oring correct? So it ended up being the main vacuum line ont he backside of the mainfold directly in the middle that caused the 0 idle condition. Pushed it back on, zip tied and all good to go. Silinc3r's 05 SWP GT/Spec B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaGe Posted December 2, 2015 Share Posted December 2, 2015 i placed an order for some grimmspead gaskets....i want to do this 1 time and be done. OTM. Sorry I didn't mean to start a war which mainly forum people is all about . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob van Halen Posted January 23, 2016 Share Posted January 23, 2016 Did this today and it didn't solve my misfires on cylinder #4 and #1. Noticed that the new gaskets were thicker than the old ones. Already replaced plugs and swapped coil packs, also checked the coil pack wiring. Considered swapping the injectors around to see what would happen, but couldn't figure out a way to get to them, so I took my chances with the gaskets and here I am again at the beginning, it seems. When I had the banjo bolt filters removed last year, they smoke checked everything and I remembered them telling me that there was no vacuum leak, but I will double check that. Now I guess the only thing I can do is a compression test...unless someone has another idea... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StkmltS Posted January 26, 2016 Share Posted January 26, 2016 Did this today and it didn't solve my misfires on cylinder #4 and #1. Noticed that the new gaskets were thicker than the old ones. Already replaced plugs and swapped coil packs, also checked the coil pack wiring. Considered swapping the injectors around to see what would happen, but couldn't figure out a way to get to them, so I took my chances with the gaskets and here I am again at the beginning, it seems. When I had the banjo bolt filters removed last year, they smoke checked everything and I remembered them telling me that there was no vacuum leak, but I will double check that. Now I guess the only thing I can do is a compression test...unless someone has another idea... A compression test and/or a leakdown test should give you more info on how to fix the root problem. If it checks out OK read the first post in my misfire thread (link below) for a ton of cheap and/or easy things to try. Nothing I tried could fix my problem because I ended up finding a cracked piston. Hopefully your story turns out better. My DiySB rebuild Got Misfires? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob van Halen Posted January 27, 2016 Share Posted January 27, 2016 (edited) Did the compression test, here are the results (cold engine btw): Cylinder #1 dry 130, wet 110 Cylinder #2 dry 110, wet 113 Cylinder #3 dry 130, wet 126 Cylinder #4 dry 107, wet 103 I'm wondering why the driver's side is lower than the passenger's one. Also checked for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner, found none. Test drove the car, no CEL and it drove great. This morning I let the cold car idle in the garage and monitored the misfires with Rom Raider. For a minute there were none at all and I was getting hopeful, but then the count on #4 just shot up and the CEL came on eventually. See attached image for graph on the misfire count over time and engine speed. Also, there are some misfires on all of the other cylinders from time to time, but no more than one or two before the counter resets. So, I'm wondering the following: - Why did the misfires show up only after a minute or so and not right away? What changed within that one minute that could trigger them? - If everything were normal in the other cylinders, the misfire count there should be zero, right? - Can one or two misfires be dismissed? - Can it still be the fuel injectors if I'm seeing misfires in pretty much all cylinders? Maybe we need to look at the bigger picture? Thanks for the advice, StkmltS, I will check your post. For now my suspicions lie with fuel delivery since I already excluded ignition and combustion air. Edited January 28, 2016 by Rob van Halen Added graph, clarifications Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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