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Will I wreck my transmission


Lojasmo

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I just purchased a 1995 wagon, AWD, 5SM.

 

I took it for a brief drive, which included a little bit of time in the snow.

 

I asked the PO if the transmission worked fine, and he said he had driven it in snow, and it did fine.

 

I take off on a two hour trip to pick up some leather seats during a winter storm. Lo and behold, not only do the all season tires totally suck n snow, but also, my AWD car is clearly FWD, and without all the nannies I have come to expect from my last car, a 2003 a4.

 

And my washer fluid motor is blown.

 

Vote:

 

Transfer case.

 

Rear dif

 

Dead hooker in spare tire compartment.

 

Thanks in advance for the drubbing I am about to receive.

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Just bought a 1995 legacy. PO lied, and told me the AWD worked fine, but it does not. Rear wheels are not powered. $1500 fix at the dealership.

 

Will it hurt my car to drive it until the spring, when I can get it up on stands to disassemble the transfer case?

 

Thanks.

 

Jason

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You have a manual transmission correct? Check to make sure the drive shaft is installed. Otherwise I am sure you would hear or feel something coming from the center or rear diff. How did you determine the rear wheels are not working?
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This is a 5mt. When in snow, it is damn near undrivable. Fine when moving, but very hard to get going (or stopped, due to crappy all seasons) in snow.

 

When it is cruising on the streets, even in snow, or while on dry pavement, it does fine.

 

Sourcing a transfer case, or if I can, a center diff.

 

Wondering if I can drive it without wrecking anything else.

 

Feels driving a 1985 toyota corolla with bald tires.

 

Edit: I know the rears are not powered, because I got stuck in six inches of snow, and the person watching me saaid my back wheels were not moving. ;)

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Okay. The center diff will certainly be shot (the reason the shaft was removed.)

 

I can test the rear diff by turning the input flange (unlikely original failure, anyway)

 

I have sourced a local transmission for $450

 

Will I hurt my car by driving it, carefully, as a FWD vehicle?

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first, the wagon drive shafts are the same as the sedans, but the manuals are different from the autos, but i think the difference is in the front section of the shaft not the rear. I THINK all tge rear shafts are the same. but www.car-part.com know for sure.

 

second, removing the shaft was probably done so he could sell the car, the viscous coupling/ center diff is probably shot causing torque bind. replacing it and the drive shaft will correct the problem. but you better install the shaft first to be sure. you need one any way. but no sense buying the viscous center unless you need it.

 

maybe make a deal with your local yard, rear shaft for sure, center diff on approval and returnable for the trans if needed.

 

mis-matched tires can cause binding and center diff damage , i think. so there may be a tiny possibility that the diff is ok but that the shaft was removed due to bind from bad tires. but would not bet on it.

 

i don't think the missing shaft will cause more damage, but i'm not sure. i'm an auto trans guy. an exploded parts view may help. http://opposedforces.com/parts on an auto the power to the front is all before the transfer section.

 

both sections of shaft or just the rear.? on an auto you have to leave the front part in or all the fluid will run out.

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Manual is bolted from the outside, I think. I believe the entire thing is missing.

 

Boo to dishonest seller. I am sure the center diff I'd toast. Will just plan on driving it until the spring. What a drag.

 

Certainly will improve my driving skills, though!

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I should be able to assess the center diff by raising the front end, engaging the transmission, and looking and listening at the transfer case, right?

 

it's a viscous coupling, exactly like a VLSD, viscous limited slip differential. it is a sealed unit with a viscous fluid inside with 2 plates. when the speed differential between the 2 is great enough, (maybe any difference at all) it heats and thickens the fluid which causes it to grab more. so as the front wheels spin the rears try and drive more.

 

i'd be tempted to try the shaft now. especially since it is snow season. the binding will be less on straight driving and greater on turns. but i doubt 2 months will kill any thing.

 

how many miles a week are you driving it?

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if the rear wheels are not powered and this is a 5mt, then the car would be nearly undriveable. I be he has a 4eat which can be FWD only if something in the trans isnt working or the FWD fuse is installed.

 

Interested to know why this is. I drive a 5mt.

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it's a viscous coupling, exactly like a VLSD, viscous limited slip differential. it is a sealed unit with a viscous fluid inside with 2 plates. when the speed differential between the 2 is great enough, (maybe any difference at all) it heats and thickens the fluid which causes it to grab more. so as the front wheels spin the rears try and drive more.

 

i'd be tempted to try the shaft now. especially since it is snow season. the binding will be less on straight driving and greater on turns. but i doubt 2 months will kill any thing.

 

how many miles a week are you driving it?

105 miles. Per week. Two trips to the slopes.

 

Edit: used driveshafts seem to be plentiful.

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Transmissions forum is a wasteland. Sorry about that, Gire, but I wanted some opinions.

 

 

No worries, and you are right about the vagueness of the transmissions forum.

 

That's why I put your first thread in the Year Specific forum. I can change this one back too if you think it will help.

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No worries, and you are right about the vagueness of the transmissions forum.

 

That's why I put your first thread in the Year Specific forum. I can change this one back too if you think it will help.

 

Not too worried. At this point I am more. Concerned with sourcing a driveshaft and center diff. ;)

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