stevenva Posted January 19, 2011 Share Posted January 19, 2011 I found these on Amazon. I ordered 4 to include in my upcoming install of new swaybars. (I wish the swaybar kit's came with these) Climax Metal 2C-087-S T303 Stainless Steel Two-Piece Clamping Collar, 7/8" Bore Size, 1-5/8" OD, With 1/4-28 x 5/8 Set Screw They come in several sizes. Your choice of steel, aluminum, or stainless steel. Steel and the aluminum were the cheapest at $5 and some change, stainless were $7. Shipping was free. [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Two-Piece-Collars-Couplings-Shaft-Aluminum/dp/B002P4MDPY/ref=sr_1_75?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1295447004&sr=1-75]Amazon.com: 7/8 I.D., 1 5/8 O.D., 1/2 Wide, Two-Piece, Collars and Couplings Shaft Collars, Aluminum (1 Each): Industrial & Scientific[/ame] 7/8 bore is for a 22mm bar, 3/4 is for a 19mm bar RIP 96 Legacy 2.2 4EAT lost reverse @ 374,000 miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyWifezLEGi Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 good find ive always wondered where to find a stiffer one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OhBe1 Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 You would definitely NOT want aluminum for this application. 06LOB2.5i MT, JDMRSB, GYTTs, HPS, LGT Mufflers & Leather Wheel, SubiMomo Knob, Inalfa Moonroof, Clutch Switch Bypass, DeDRLd, DeChimed, & Straight Headrest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevenva Posted January 23, 2011 Author Share Posted January 23, 2011 Aluminum wouldn't be my first choice either. Maybe on my link I should've used a stainless steel example instead. Like the ones I'm holding in the photo. RIP 96 Legacy 2.2 4EAT lost reverse @ 374,000 miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slvrlegacygt Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 where would these collars go on the sway bar and what's the benefits of installing these? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevenva Posted January 25, 2011 Author Share Posted January 25, 2011 You would use 2 collars per bar. You have 2 sway bar mount's. 1 goes on the inside of the left mount, the 2nd goes on the inside of the right mount. OR 1 on the outside of the left mount, the 2nd goes on the outside of the right mount. They keep the sway bar from shifting to one side. The only benefit is on cars that have a problem with the sway bar not staying centered. With centering collars installed, the sway bar can't move laterly, which could damage end links. RIP 96 Legacy 2.2 4EAT lost reverse @ 374,000 miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grantman10 Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 which one would be best for the common JDM rear sway bar, in terms of size? Thanks for the link... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 You would definitely NOT want aluminum for this application. What makes you say that? I can't think of any reason, aside from corrosion resistance, that aluminum would be a poor choice for a non-structural collar. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grantman10 Posted January 31, 2011 Share Posted January 31, 2011 What makes you say that? I can't think of any reason, aside from corrosion resistance, that aluminum would be a poor choice for a non-structural collar. I think that it would make it very easy to strip the set screw holes since the treads are so small. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevenva Posted January 31, 2011 Author Share Posted January 31, 2011 The reason I chose the stainless steel over the aluminum was the strength of the screw threads. Aluminum could, and probably would, get some corrosion on them but that had nothing to do with me chosing stainless steel. Stainless are only a couple bucks more. Grantman you can use this chart I've attached. http://www.ibiblio.org/twa/info/fraction_conversion_chart.pdf Just find out the diameter of your bar and use the right size. RIP 96 Legacy 2.2 4EAT lost reverse @ 374,000 miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 I think that it would make it very easy to strip the set screw holes since the treads are so small. Nah, doesn't look like much of a possibility. They are thru-holes and look to be pretty coarse thread. As long as the aluminum isn't low quality, they'll be fine. Our blocks and heads are aluminum, but it's very rare to see a stripped head bolt hole. But the steel ones look like they are dirt cheap, so just go that route. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssbtech Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 Of course if you just bought sway bars that fit properly Or am I missing some other reason for the walking bar here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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