Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Sways/links/bracket OR Brake Pads and SS lines


Recommended Posts

Ok, about to make the plunge into Stage 2 (after rec'd price quotes). Question is, if only have the cash for Sways/links/avo bracket OR Stoptech Pads/SS lines- Which one? Already spending 300 plus on erz dp and gaskets.

 

Car is a daily driver. I don't rally x...just some spirited driving on back roads. Anyone in the same situation?

Advice to the newb please!! Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tough choice. If you have good tires, which you said you did, that's going to improve braking substantially.

 

I'd go sways/brackets/endlinks. Then do brakes when you need to. SS lines are nice for pedal feel, but aren't something that will notably reduce stopping distance.

[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Definitely a sway bar upgrade. I have both a 25mm RSB with AVO brackets and Hawks HPSs. The sway bar made a huge difference in handling. The brakes are a nice upgrade over stock. The change in handling for the RSB is way more noticeable than the change in braking from upgraded pads.
It's cool; I'm with the band
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I guess I should be a little more specific. I'm keeping the factory front swb. I've read that a 20mm in the rear would complement the factory nicely.

 

RSB: Either the 1. JDM 20mm (hollow). Necessary for brackets/endlinks or could go w/o? 2. Whiteline 20mm rsb-in this case, I'd get avo brackets and kb links. 3. Rallitek or Cusco but leaning toward #1 or #2.

 

Reason I mentioned brakes is that I've recently heard a crunching sound when my brake is depressed when coming to a complete stop-coming from front passenger side. Car has 50K on them and looks like duralast pads.

SS lines are probably not necessary then.

Pads: So many to choose from but most on here say: Hawk HPS or Stoptech. Reason I mentioned Stoptech is b/c I've heard that Hawk's have to warm up to be effective. If I just got pads and not lines, I want to get a great set of brake pads and will spend the extra 20-30 dollars on a good set.

Like most, I feel the the brakes on our cars are less than stellar!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Swaybars a very good idea. If pressed for $ do the rear first with reinforcement bracket. The debate rages on about endlinks . They aren't really necessary but upgrading to solid one's will improve feel and are well worth it . +1 on hawk pads (HPS) very good street pad and can handle autocrosses too. Best if matched with high quality rotors like DBA's
Link to comment
Share on other sites

^+1! Rear sway with reinforcement bracket should be first priority. One of my first mods was the Cobb front and rear sway bar with brackets along with Kartboy endlinks. It completely changed the feel of my car. I just bought centric rotors and HPS+ pads (not yet installed) but I've heard mixed reviews about SS lines. From what I've read I wouldn't recommend them for DD.
...Support your LGT community...
Link to comment
Share on other sites

with my STG2 jump i put all Rallitek frnt/rear SB and endlinks on. the rear SB has no bracket and i havent had a problem. ive tracked the car hard for about 6 hours total run time. no problems with the rear SB or anything coming loose.

i also went with Ralliteks springs, can we say PACKAGE DEAL! i have nothing to compare to but it does give a great stance. it could be ever so slightly lower in the front. no saggy bottom but if th front were a 1/4 lower itd be aweseom.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The reinforcement bracket doesn't stop stuff from coming loose, it prevent you from warping the mounts or the subframe. Two local-ish guys with LGTs have warped the subframe because they tracked their cars with beefier rear bars and no reinforcement brackets.
It's cool; I'm with the band
Link to comment
Share on other sites

right right....stiffer! sounds better doesnt it. why not just weld a 3/4" DOM tube across there to hold it tight. if your SB is too stiff then the car wont allow some wiggle, to stiff is too flat and the car will just pick up the other tire. no tire no traction...but it looks cool when one parks on their buddys moms suburb home curb cut and tricycles the thing.:spin:

stay with a medium stiff bar and youll love it! best of both worlds and if you push it too hard then the car will roll a bit and you'll get all woozy and let off a bit.

enjoy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use