GotTurboWut Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 Ok, about to make the plunge into Stage 2 (after rec'd price quotes). Question is, if only have the cash for Sways/links/avo bracket OR Stoptech Pads/SS lines- Which one? Already spending 300 plus on erz dp and gaskets. Car is a daily driver. I don't rally x...just some spirited driving on back roads. Anyone in the same situation? Advice to the newb please!! Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Sinister Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 I'd go with sways. It's tough pushing the car hard enough on the street to get the gain from upgrading your brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chutrain Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 The stock braking will be able to keep a stage two in check. Unless you are nearing the point where you do need new pads. Having some beefy sways will make the car feel so much better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhillyWilly Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 unless you need new pads. SWAYS. hands down. you will love them. one of the best bangs for the buck. i felt like i got a new car when i added sways. i barely noticed adding better pads and ss lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaptan Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 If you do get pads go with Hawk HPS over the stoptechs. The stock pads are terrible and leave deposits on the rotors. The SS lines will only increase brake pedal feedback and IMHO not necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 Tough choice. If you have good tires, which you said you did, that's going to improve braking substantially. I'd go sways/brackets/endlinks. Then do brakes when you need to. SS lines are nice for pedal feel, but aren't something that will notably reduce stopping distance. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 bars and brackets...etc. brakes are over rated 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 Pads and sways. You don't need the other stuff on a street-only driven car unless your last name is Toretto. The Hotchkis swaybar set from fredbeanparts.com comes with the rear stabilizer brackets. The whole set is inexpensive compared to piecing together a complete set plus the brackets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeblow Posted December 16, 2010 Share Posted December 16, 2010 Definitely a sway bar upgrade. I have both a 25mm RSB with AVO brackets and Hawks HPSs. The sway bar made a huge difference in handling. The brakes are a nice upgrade over stock. The change in handling for the RSB is way more noticeable than the change in braking from upgraded pads. It's cool; I'm with the band Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GotTurboWut Posted December 17, 2010 Author Share Posted December 17, 2010 I guess I should be a little more specific. I'm keeping the factory front swb. I've read that a 20mm in the rear would complement the factory nicely. RSB: Either the 1. JDM 20mm (hollow). Necessary for brackets/endlinks or could go w/o? 2. Whiteline 20mm rsb-in this case, I'd get avo brackets and kb links. 3. Rallitek or Cusco but leaning toward #1 or #2. Reason I mentioned brakes is that I've recently heard a crunching sound when my brake is depressed when coming to a complete stop-coming from front passenger side. Car has 50K on them and looks like duralast pads. SS lines are probably not necessary then. Pads: So many to choose from but most on here say: Hawk HPS or Stoptech. Reason I mentioned Stoptech is b/c I've heard that Hawk's have to warm up to be effective. If I just got pads and not lines, I want to get a great set of brake pads and will spend the extra 20-30 dollars on a good set. Like most, I feel the the brakes on our cars are less than stellar!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted December 17, 2010 Share Posted December 17, 2010 Skip the JDM bar, it's not worth your time. It's not a significant upgrade over stock. Get whatever street pads you want, but definitely put in ATE Super Blue or Motul RBF 600 fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GotTurboWut Posted December 17, 2010 Author Share Posted December 17, 2010 20mm hollow jdm = 18mm solid approx. correct? Lot of cold months in NW VA and after several reads re HPS pads in the cold weather, I'm skeptical about them since they are more expensive that other brands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StoplightAssassin Posted December 17, 2010 Share Posted December 17, 2010 give or take on the sway I never had any cold braking issues with my HPS. The last Autox event I did on Dec 4th I paxed 4th overall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDork Posted December 17, 2010 Share Posted December 17, 2010 Matching sways + brackets + bushings would be my first priority Then pads - HPS are good, even in cold Then endlinks only if you have clunks No need for stainless lines Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GotTurboWut Posted December 17, 2010 Author Share Posted December 17, 2010 10-4. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted December 17, 2010 Share Posted December 17, 2010 Rallitek bar, AVO brackets, hawk HPS pads. boom, done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteyjr Posted December 17, 2010 Share Posted December 17, 2010 Swaybars a very good idea. If pressed for $ do the rear first with reinforcement bracket. The debate rages on about endlinks . They aren't really necessary but upgrading to solid one's will improve feel and are well worth it . +1 on hawk pads (HPS) very good street pad and can handle autocrosses too. Best if matched with high quality rotors like DBA's Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crossing509 Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 ^+1! Rear sway with reinforcement bracket should be first priority. One of my first mods was the Cobb front and rear sway bar with brackets along with Kartboy endlinks. It completely changed the feel of my car. I just bought centric rotors and HPS+ pads (not yet installed) but I've heard mixed reviews about SS lines. From what I've read I wouldn't recommend them for DD. ...Support your LGT community... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triple_B Posted December 18, 2010 Share Posted December 18, 2010 with my STG2 jump i put all Rallitek frnt/rear SB and endlinks on. the rear SB has no bracket and i havent had a problem. ive tracked the car hard for about 6 hours total run time. no problems with the rear SB or anything coming loose. i also went with Ralliteks springs, can we say PACKAGE DEAL! i have nothing to compare to but it does give a great stance. it could be ever so slightly lower in the front. no saggy bottom but if th front were a 1/4 lower itd be aweseom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeblow Posted December 19, 2010 Share Posted December 19, 2010 The reinforcement bracket doesn't stop stuff from coming loose, it prevent you from warping the mounts or the subframe. Two local-ish guys with LGTs have warped the subframe because they tracked their cars with beefier rear bars and no reinforcement brackets. It's cool; I'm with the band Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
triple_B Posted December 19, 2010 Share Posted December 19, 2010 right right....stiffer! sounds better doesnt it. why not just weld a 3/4" DOM tube across there to hold it tight. if your SB is too stiff then the car wont allow some wiggle, to stiff is too flat and the car will just pick up the other tire. no tire no traction...but it looks cool when one parks on their buddys moms suburb home curb cut and tricycles the thing. stay with a medium stiff bar and youll love it! best of both worlds and if you push it too hard then the car will roll a bit and you'll get all woozy and let off a bit. enjoy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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