SLegacy99 Posted February 10, 2011 Share Posted February 10, 2011 With 131k I'd say your diff would love you with some new fluid. Generally I thought it was a 60k item, but maybe not. I used a 1/2" ratchet with no issues. Try putting a few layers of masking tape on the ratchet to build up the size of it a little, then crack the ratchet with a dead blow hammer (any BFH) to break the nut free. Im at 126k miles so I suppose it's time. But ya know, the last time I was in winter weather the front wheels really dominated which of course didn't get me very far.. Neither rear got much power at all, which surprised me as I've been driving this thing for 6 years in central PA winters without such a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacyshawn Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 I'm going to do my front and rear diffs next weekend for my 60k on my 2.5i 4EAT. I really have to give it up to people like GEE cause it really helps people like me get over their fears of doing their own work. It looks really easy. I'm going to pick up 2 quarts of Redline 75w-90 gear oil for both diffs. Should I try to get out all the old stuff with a flush or no need? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted August 7, 2011 Author Share Posted August 7, 2011 I'm going to do my front and rear diffs next weekend for my 60k on my 2.5i 4EAT. I really have to give it up to people like GEE cause it really helps people like me get over their fears of doing their own work. It looks really easy. I'm going to pick up 2 quarts of Redline 75w-90 gear oil for both diffs. Should I try to get out all the old stuff with a flush or no need? Thanks! The front diff will drain well since the opening is at the lowest point of the case and is about 7/8 of a inch wide the rear will drain well and if you haven't experienced any malfunctions (broken ring gear or chipped tooth) there should not be much debris left behind, most if it is suspended in the fluid itself. Redline is good fluid just DONT get the Shock proof (with friction modifiers) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarulegay Posted August 10, 2011 Share Posted August 10, 2011 hey don't know if you guys knew this, but if you take out the spare tire in your trunk there is a rubber plug in the bottom of the trunk that will allow u to poor the fluid with a tube from your trunk into the diff very easily instead of fighting with the fluid bottle under the car so you wont need to go out and buy a pump which can get messy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted August 10, 2011 Author Share Posted August 10, 2011 hey don't know if you guys knew this, but if you take out the spare tire in your trunk there is a rubber plug in the bottom of the trunk that will allow u to poor the fluid with a tube from your trunk into the diff very easily instead of fighting with the fluid bottle under the car Well damn Thanks for that tip will def use it next go round Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soloz2 Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 That's good to know! Now I just have to remember that in 20k when it's time to change the fluid again! Lol Current: 16 Crosstrek Premium w/ Eyesight & 05 Outback XT 5MT Past Subies: 14 FXT Premium, 14 WRX hatch, 06 Legacy 2.5i SE 5MT, 98 Outback wagon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacyshawn Posted August 23, 2011 Share Posted August 23, 2011 what a day… stripped the drain plug hole and cracked the case. i waited an hour for napa to deliver me some jb weld. i welded the bottom bolt on and sealed the crack. hopefully that'll take care of it. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!!!!!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted August 24, 2011 Author Share Posted August 24, 2011 what a day… stripped the drain plug hole and cracked the case. i waited an hour for napa to deliver me some jb weld. i welded the bottom bolt on and sealed the crack. hopefully that'll take care of it. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!!!!!!!!!!! YOu cracked the transmission case or the rear diff cover?? If you cracked the trans case or either for that matter you will need to either get it welded back up or replaced JB will not suffice period. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShrinerMonkey Posted August 24, 2011 Share Posted August 24, 2011 Replace the cover, don't use JB weld. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacyshawn Posted August 24, 2011 Share Posted August 24, 2011 it cracked by the drain plug on the rear diff… yeah I'm not messing with it. i'll have to send it to the shop... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted August 26, 2011 Author Share Posted August 26, 2011 it cracked by the drain plug on the rear diff… yeah I'm not messing with it. i'll have to send it to the shop... Well teh good news is the cover is fairly cheap @ around $85 just make sure the shop doesn't try to screw you over and ell you they are going to repair the cover and it will cost $500 this is a simple repair take bolts off remove cover place new seal and cover on reinstall bolt, fill with fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacyshawn Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 I've driven 500 miles on without a leak. YESSS but yeah i saw that, but wouldn't i have to take the entire rear wheel assembly apart to take off the diff cover? ill take a closer look at it, but from what i saw, it was attached to the chassis and the rear wheel assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minitech Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 Nice, i will have to try this myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kd5zmg Posted October 16, 2011 Share Posted October 16, 2011 I am planning on doing this in the next couple of days. So thank you for the tutorial. Well I was at Autozone picking up the gear oil. The computer was calling for 80W90. Is that because I am in a regionally warmer area? We are planning on moving to New England in a month, and it is going to be winter time shortly. Should I wait or will the 75W90 be ok. Also I have the 5MT, do I use the same gear oil for it as well? We are currently in San Antonio, TX. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
santanac Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 Would this tutorial be ok for 09 legacy 3.0r?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 Would this tutorial be ok for 09 legacy 3.0r?? It looks like things might be slightly different on your 3.0r. See the attached pdf for more info. **Update. So after doing more research it looks like the drain/fill bolts on your 3.0r rear diff will probably be on the side, not the back, since it looks like your car has a VA2 rear differential. Finally changed my diff fluids today. Here's my experience and how I did it. First off, I screwed up on the type of rear diff. I thought it was a VA1, but it was a VA2 which, incidentally, is a LOT easier to work on. Both VA2 diff bolts are on the same side, the right side (if you were sitting in the car). Both bolts use a 10mm Hex key and they have crush washers that are a wee bit narrower than your typical oil drain washers. I had to reuse mine and they still gave to me twisting them so I'm sure they won't drip. Quote above is from the following thread http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/pictoral-guide-changing-transmission-and-rear-diff-fluids-5mt-05-94834.html?p=2572048reardiff09.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevinlman Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 Hey guys, I went to go do the fluid change today. but the plugs are seized, this is my DD so I don't want to risk cracking it.. I'll just replace the cover.. Where can I get one? I'll check the dealer for sure, are there any other places that carry them? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted March 18, 2013 Author Share Posted March 18, 2013 Hey guys, I went to go do the fluid change today. but the plugs are seized, this is my DD so I don't want to risk cracking it.. I'll just replace the cover.. Where can I get one? I'll check the dealer for sure, are there any other places that carry them? Thanks Have you tried a long 1/2" extension with a breaker bar ?? I used two of them with a long handle bar and got mine loosened. The danger of cracking the cover comes when putting the plugs back in. Check the stealer see how much they want but here is a site to give you an idea: http://www.trademotion.com/parts/2006/SUBARU/LEGACY/2.5I/?siteid=214857&vehicleid=1432742&diagram=F731045 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShrinerMonkey Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 You can also use your floor jack against the handle of the breaker bar....carefully. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
halwith Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 the jack works pretty well. loosened both with little effort. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevinlman Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 Thanks for the replies guys, I will try 1/2" breaker bar. And the jack method. I was just afraid of cracking it... but if the danger of cracking it is mostly from tightening, then I fee more comfortable with those methods. It would be very inconvenient for work if I temporarily decommissioned my car lol.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevinlman Posted March 27, 2013 Share Posted March 27, 2013 Hey guys used some heat and the jack on ratchet advise and it worked yay for not needing to order a cover, Thanks for all the input guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_karu_ Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 So, I found out that my local Subaru dealer doesn't use OEM differential fluids for their service. I checked both local dealers and neither use OEM. I went online and found the OEM 75W90 fluid on Fred Beans Parts website: http://www.fredbeansparts.com/subaru-75w90-extra-s-gear-and-transmission-quart-bottle.html It's about $15 per quart. Is this compatible with my 2.5i NA 4EAT? It doesn't say anything about 4-speed on Fred Beans' website... I'm guessing the answer is "Yes." I wonder if it's worth it or should I just use Valvoline 75W90 fluid? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacyshawn Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 Really most 75w-90 synthetic gear oil should do. I recommend amsoil severe gear for about that same price. Also I have heard good things about redline but the oem or valvoline will be just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GEE-OTTO Posted April 9, 2013 Author Share Posted April 9, 2013 Yeah these arent race cars lol Supertech, Valvoline, most Dealers use Penz. Extra-S is great, Motul Gear 300 and Redline are great premium gear oils Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.