bmx045 Posted January 26, 2011 Author Share Posted January 26, 2011 yeah that was my exact problem, same codes, change those gaskets! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 Ordered the gaskets today, I'm also wondering if I may have a very dirty TB... When I start it cold it will rev just fine and hold proper RPM for I would say about 45sec to 1 min, and then it appears that it tries to close the TB and rely on the Idle control valve more and when it does that the idle drops drastically down to almost 500 then climbs back up to the 1k-1.2k mark where it idles till it warms up more. Either way I'm pulling the whole top end and doing some cleaning to ensure everything is good... Probably not a bad idea before I decide to go Stage 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spec.D Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 I am experiencing the same problem on my '08 spec.b, which is currently at the dealership. They have mentioned the intake manifold gasket problem and are 'doing some tests' that required keeping the car overnight. Cold start test? I wonder how common this problem is, and if corrected now, if it will recur again after a few years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 I am experiencing the same problem on my '08 spec.b, which is currently at the dealership. They have mentioned the intake manifold gasket problem and are 'doing some tests' that required keeping the car overnight. Cold start test? I wonder how common this problem is, and if corrected now, if it will recur again after a few years. Only if they use OEM parts... May be while it's there, check the fuel line clamp to make sure it doesn't leak. A lot of us have the fuel smell when it cold out. B-BGT, I guess you'll check that clamp too. Or were you one of the guy's that fixed it already. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 Never had a fuel smell when cold, but which clamp should I be checking... there are 4 on the body to engine lines and then two between each metal line set on the sides of the motor IIRC.. I haven't dug deep enough to find all the lines under the intake. All that's avilable is OEM parts too.. Unless you know something I don't. Every time I look up parts for my car I get the same BS... No listings. scratch that...Beck/Arnley has gakskets but are they any good. Fel-Pro has a set P/N MS96758, Typically the MS versions are good gaskets and it states the lowers are Rubber/metal combination vs just paper type, and it also says upper set included... Anyone ever buy this set? What else is included? I want to buy this setup vs the OEM ones if they are infact better and will last longer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted February 1, 2011 Author Share Posted February 1, 2011 The new gaskets are revised opposed to the stock 08's. The new version of the gasket has more contact area than the ones supplied on our 08's. So I don't forsee it causing an issue in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 Here's the fuel smell thread. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fix-report-gas-smell-again-whine-start-up-154233.html Good to know Subaru may have fixed the o-rings so they seal better. I believe Beck/Arnley have been around for a long time, so there stuff should be good. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattG42C Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 I am having the same issue with my '08 Spec.B and 45,000 miles. Would you say the gasket install is a difficult operation? I skimmed the walkthroughs section and couldn't find it, but I definitely could've missed it. A link would be awesome. Thanks!-Matt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted February 3, 2011 Author Share Posted February 3, 2011 There isn't a walkthrough, yet, though I would be the person to make one. It's not difficult if you have an average socket set, hand tools, and the usuals. I'll try to break it down. You need to remove the intercooler first, and remove any objects getting in your way of the manifold base, also remove the turbo coolant res. Remove the bolts that hold the manifold to the tgv's. Loosen any tubes/wiring harnesses attached to the manifold to allow the raising of the manifold off the engine. You do not need to remove the fuel rails passing through the intake on the drivers side. Have someone hold the manifold up about an inch while you use needle nose pliers to grab the tabs on the o-rings(see pic below), pull old ones out, slide new ones in making sure the tab is in the slot in the manifold(see pic below). Make sure the gasket is seated properly in the manifold oulet (handheld mirror or by feel, I used an allen key to stick in there and set the gasket in place) There will be less room to slide the gaskets in/out on the drivers side due to the hard fuel rails in the way, but you can still get at the gaskets. Pull old out with needlenose, install new ones, use an allen key to ensure the rings have seated in the manifold as there is not enough clearance to run your finger around. Reinstall manifold bolts, service manual calls for torquing at only 6ft lbs on the manifold bolts. http://www.submariner.org/thepno95/Pictures/Subaru/EZ30R%20install/ez30%20and%20ez30r%20intakes5.jpg this is not our manifold, but the gaskets sit the same in ours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattG42C Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 Awesome, thanks for the detail. I feel a bit bad now though, because I typed my post as I was at the dealer (thinking that they wouldn't find anything like last time I had it here.) This time however, they did find the leaking gasket condition, so it's going to be covered by the powertrain warranty (am at 45,000 miles.) Hopefully others can benefit from your writeup though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 I'll probably spend more time removing almost everything since I want to also do an engine cleaning in those areas. I have a GM fuel line release tool which seems to be a similar item to how a subaru one would come off but is there a subi specific one? Because I can't get my tool to clamp onto the line before inserting into the clip... There is a bracket on the line thats in the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted February 3, 2011 Author Share Posted February 3, 2011 you don't need to touch the lines for gaskets change. other than that I didn't bother trying to get them apart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted February 3, 2011 Share Posted February 3, 2011 I'm completely removing my upper intake as well as the TVG's for cleaning, I'll have to disconnect the fuel lines to accomplish that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted February 3, 2011 Author Share Posted February 3, 2011 yeah when I got to that point I said F that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B-BGTLimited Posted April 23, 2013 Share Posted April 23, 2013 Well I finally got around to doing this... and in the process I broke my purge valve... got that replaced and then went to NC for a week but on the ride I got a purge leak code twice.. After about 3hrs of constant driving. Also started to get the misfires back, and now they will do it on just a cold start and it doesn't have to be below 30 outside... Kinda pissed and now I need to take it all apart again to re-check everything. Being the first time I've done this i don't know if I f-ed something else up just like snapping the purge valve... OR maybe the replacement I got is bad and wont stay closed... I'm not sure yet. But some pics of what I did... I removed as described on the other post, but also disconnected the harness and every plug for the sensors that are not bolted to the TVG's and above then unbolted the TVG's... The whole intake comes out as one large part, then you take the smaller items off on the bench... INCLUDING the inlet... it's way easier to get all the lines on the inlet this way then drop it in as a whole... Just don't break your purge valve... LOL http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Leggy/FB_IMG_13653764150227562_zpsb79292d5.jpg http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Leggy/FB_IMG_13653763840964707_zps87a3eb08.jpg http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Leggy/FB_IMG_13653763944822710_zps0cbfd875.jpg I forgot to put all the air pump stuff back in... Bummer... http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh201/3400modified/Leggy/FB_IMG_13653767576858999_zps43c321c7.jpg I have to finish getting my Beretta back together first so I have a second vehicle, then I will remove the top end again and see what I can find. I may just try to plug the purge line going to the valve that I think has the issue and see if my problems go away... if that's the case then that valve I got from a JY is bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.