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auxiliary lighting setups


alexJay

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really diggin this man ^ whatd you do? drill holes and stick threaded rod all the way through the bumper bar? and how'd you get the piece that your lights are connected to attached to the pieces going inward towards your radiator?

 

Yeah, the threaded rod goes all the way through the bumper beam. The plate on top is welded to the rod so all I have to do is tighten the nuts on the bottom. The light bar is welded together but I'm sure you could bolt one together if you didnt have a welder.

 

Thanks for the comments! Dave

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Just a recommendation for anyone planning on building their own light bar. Fab it up, seal as many ends as possible, and get it powder coated. This will all help to prevent rusting. I have built several light bars and used several different products to try to prevent rusting. Powder coat is the best.
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  • 2 weeks later...

Fabbed it up about a week or two ago. Simple but so far seems to hold up fine. I didn't like the wide look too much so I've takin out the bar (wasn't a fan) and moved them a little close.

 

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/11/a7e4y9ab.jpg

 

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/11/ume5yjuq.jpg

 

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/11/7adaby5e.jpg

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Ritch2.5, do they bounce around/vibrate much?

I used to had some KC's on my old impreza, mounted to the topside of the bumper and they vibrated quite a bit. Ended up putting my larger lights on the roof, only problem with that is that my sunroof shade has to be closed :p

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Andyjo, surprisingly they don't. I was surprised myself. No more bounce than the headlights when going over hills/bumps but everything looks natural while driving. My buddy actually just did over head lights too

 

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/12/epy3azeq.jpg

 

 

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I have a switch behind the drivers fuse panel hatch thing.

For higher power lights I'd suggest using a solenoid so you don't burn out the switch.

I've debated adding a other switch on the lighting control lever

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Those look good man

 

And the pictures shitty but I left room for a future button and used the fuse panel cover. Easy enough routs and replaceable if I decide to get rid of it. I was originally making my own switch box for miscellaneous mods but got sick of it and went away with it. This was when I first started it

 

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/13/vetydenu.jpg

 

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/13/y7u3arag.jpg

 

 

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I'm thinking of running an LED light bar (a la Rigid Industries, Totron, or even the new TRS) in the lower grill area.. Does anyone have any experience with light output, installation, and wiring? I'd like to run a switch inside by the windshield wiper defroster button that enables the light bar to turn on/off independently and in conjunction with high beams. Thoughts?
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I'm thinking of running an LED light bar (a la Rigid Industries, Totron, or even the new TRS) in the lower grill area.. Does anyone have any experience with light output, installation, and wiring? I'd like to run a switch inside by the windshield wiper defroster button that enables the light bar to turn on/off independently and in conjunction with high beams. Thoughts?

 

Check out this thread

 

http:// http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=214709

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I'm thinking of running an LED light bar (a la Rigid Industries, Totron, or even the new TRS) in the lower grill area.. Does anyone have any experience with light output, installation, and wiring? I'd like to run a switch inside by the windshield wiper defroster button that enables the light bar to turn on/off independently and in conjunction with high beams. Thoughts?

 

I may switch over to LED's also. My setup sucks a lot of power when I have it on. I used the Harbor Freight $10 lights and replaced the bulbs with Sylvania XtraVision

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-off-road-light-system-95811.html

 

I have a switch in one of the empty slots by the power mirror button. I had to drill out the JDM junk behind the dead switch to allow wires through.

 

The switch is wired in connection to the Brights so that the switch is only active when the brights are on. When switched on, the offroad lights go on with the brights. When switched off, the car is like stock.

 

I used two paralleled Bosch relays (due to power consumption) using a standard wiring diagram in reverse (because lights on these cars are constant positive with switched ground.)

378965143_AUXLights.JPG.43cdf06b8c3073613a55fdc4504f376c.JPG

854883782_AuxLightSwitch1.JPG.6459381ffb9b9ba434b225ea0fe10631.JPG

2034268806_AuxLightSwitch.JPG.d440b55f4be4f8e0b57a6e8b955c4c89.JPG

1215940097_consolebuttons.JPG.498007b50a42ad804ae96e26cf63e4b1.JPG

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  • 3 weeks later...

Previous Legacy 3.0R:

 

http://i1288.photobucket.com/albums/b487/6500hughwillis/LED%20Lights/rigid3_zpscae686ce.jpg

 

http://i1288.photobucket.com/albums/b487/6500hughwillis/LED%20Lights/rigid4_zpse43390cd.jpg

 

 

 

 

Current WRX set up (Probably will move the two smaller ones inside and slightly angle out. The current angle is pointless and points too far to the side)

 

http://i1288.photobucket.com/albums/b487/6500hughwillis/LED%20Lights/car1_zps054f051e.jpg

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We used to be a dealer for them, but they went to another system that they only use high volume whole sale companies. Being a car dealership, it was obviously not high volume enough for what they wanted in their network.

 

Even at wholesale, there isn't a ton of difference in the pricing. They are pretty strict on what the minimum pricing they allow anyone to sell them for is. These most recent ones I have were bought on autoanything.com.

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Lights on mine:

 

Middle is a 20" E Series Combination light

 

Others are 6" E Sereies Combination lights.

 

Just wanted to say, your 3.0 set-up was what made me look at light bars to begin with. Where did you wire a switch (if at all) inside? Or did you just tap into the highs/fogs?

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On the Legacy, I installed the switches on the dash above right above the mirror switch. I drilled 2 small holes in the silver dash trim right there and mounted them there.

 

I think I am going to do a pendant switch type on the WRX so I don't have to drill...or at least until I find exactly where I want the switches to live.

 

It was easy to find a spot on the Legacy to do it. I have 3 on the WRX and the dash area doesn't really have a spot that stands out to mount them that I have found.

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