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mt brakes have always been soft, but i didnt care untill i felt the brakes in a honda accord. holy hell is that touchy. is that how it should be? i mean i gotta push like 2-3 inches to lock them up.. and i couldnt even push the accord and inch..

 

 

my rotors are warpped bad and i got new pads and rotors coming in. and i have bled the lines but its still soft... does it have anything to do with having the rear lines replaces do to rust... now i have an aluminum alloy lines back there.

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you're probably looking at a new master cylinder. there's a recall issued for our cars (not sure if the 95 is under it, but I know my 98 fell into that category) where the master cylinder gets replaced due to a known failure at or below 0 degrees F. Go in, get that swapped if you can by your dealer, and see if that helps. Usually a tired master is the cause of it; mine got alot better once I got the recall job done.
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Accord brakes are always tight like that. Flush your brake fluid, and chk your pads and make sure the anti-squeal shims are not rotted causing a "spongy" effect when the piston squeezes the pads. They will never be like the Honda's brakes.
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And also - since the calipers are of the "floating" type make sure that the pins are clean and well lubricated. If the calipers sticks on the pins the feeling will also be "spongy" and you will cause problems to your rotors.
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What do you mean by floating? I'm not too familiar with calipers and the types, but I have changed out the pads and rotors on a few different vehicles before.

 

The caliper slides back and forth on its mounting bolts. There are only pistons in one side of the caliper, so when you press the pedal the piston pushes that pad against the rotor and then the caliper slides and pulls the opposite pad against the rotor. Fixed calipers are hard mounted and have pistons on both sides. Just about all production cars have floating calipers.

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What's the advantage to having fixed vs. floating calipers, or is there any?

 

As far as bleeding goes, I'm not sure if that'll do anything more for the problem. If the fluid has been bled and replaced multiple times, then it's not worth wasting the time or money trying it again. I'd definitely replace the pads/rotors and see if you fall under that master cylinder recall so you can get fresh everything.

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They also go a lot longer on a set of pads. Fixed calipers eat pads a lot faster IMO.

 

I think this issue might just be because the car is a Subaru. Compared to all the other cars/vans/trucks/SUV's I've driven my first gen Legacy has soft brakes. It might be that you have air in your lines, but I'm pretty sure you would have noticed air in your lines by now. :lol:

 

When I was looking to buy my Pathfinder I drove my Leggy to the dealership. When I got into the Pathfinder for a test drive and started driving it down the street I almost bounced the salseman's head off the dashboard the first time I had to hit the brakes because the Nissan brakes were so much more touchy than the Legacy. My Legacy has new pads and rotors all around and new rear brake lines from under the rear seat to the junction box (As of about 10K miles ago).

 

If braking is smooth and consistent (Minus the wobble from the warped rotor) I'd leave it alone. If you're really that worried about a warped rotor then buy new rotors. If I were you I would just wait until your next brake job before I even bothered with replacing rotors.

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