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This is a perfect example of why NOT to trust a CarFax report. I'd say well over half (or more) of what ever happens to car never makes it to that report.

 

Bummer, dude.

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ACT Clutch with 06+ WRX Flywheel correct?

 

Yep, that will work. Just make sure you order the clutch for the 06+ WRX, not an LGT. Also, you might want to look into a TSK3 kit if the quill sleeve is gouged up. With higher mileage, it's more likely you'll need this mod/fix.

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ok so here's an update.....bought the warranty rather be safe than sorry at this point im in a big enough hole as it is. Went to the dealer today and spoke directly with their mechanic about the car. According to him the car seems fine other than the clutch which apparently only blew out when i drove it, but now i have to contradicting stories on the car one saying the motor is about to detonate and another saying its fine. The original subaru dealer said they "adjusted" the computer and CEL to stay off in accordance with the fixes they made to the car after looking through it; but they didnt fix the problems (ie: piston, heads, and block) I have numerous sources stating that you cannot fix the CEL or adjust to not read those changes. Regardless, if those problems were current i would notice a significant amount of powerloss when driving the car, as well as smoke i would assume. It is hard for me to beleive that i would have a bad turbo, heads and piston and not smell or see something coming from the exhaust. So its time to do some testing. I am going to get the car compression tested and leakdown tested ASAP, get the clutch taken care of. Any other suggestions or tests that i SHOULD get done to get a better understanding of the motor condition? All this help and guidance is greatly appreciated to btw i owe u guys big!
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Some people can't help but ruin perfectly good cars. Should be a lesson to always have a trustworthy mechanic check it out first especially a performance version of a car.

 

 

As I understand it the best diagnostic test for an engine is a leak-down test, never done one myself but as I understand it the cylinder is filled with compressed air and then the rate of leakage is measured. It is supposed to be the best indication of valve seat condition and compression ring condition and gaskets of course.

 

Make google your friend with this and learn all you can to prepare for your next visit to the dealer. The info is out there and it not specific to subaru.

 

Good Luck.

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that is my plan....my cousin own a garage and he is gonna put my clutch in for me as well as do a compression test. After i get the car moving with a clutch i plan on bringing it to another dealer and describing the issue and having them settle it by doing compression and leakdown tests and maybe even pop the heads off and take a look physically....I am praying the motor is ok cause i love these cars and it took me months to find a 5spd.
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I had a similar situation, however with different consequences. I had bought an 06gt with 12,000miles from a local subaru dealership. I couldn't believe it actually had such low mileage, but carfax showed a full history of oil changes at the same dealership. I was so excited after I test drove the car that I didn't bother to do a good inspection. I had already payed for the car and it completed inspection at the dealership but I never drove it out. A short time later, my friend came down to look at the car. He lifted up the trunk mat to find water up to the top of the spare tire. This was like a dagger in the heart. When I asked the dealer about it, he said "someone must have left the trunk open when it rained".......sure they did. I quickly looked up the law and realized that I can still get out of the deal because I never took possession of the car aka "drove out of the dealership". Surprising, the dealership didn't give me much hassle about taking it back the next day. I ended up buying a car with 45k miles instead.....and the water didn't come on my list of options.
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If you think the engine is suspect, get a compression and leak down test done before spending any money on the clutch imo..

Yeah, told him that too. I guess one of his next posts will be "my engine is toast, blew too much cash on ACT clutch, where can I find the engine for <$2k since I don't have more to spend and warranty won't cover squat". Sigh.

666
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Well the warranty does cover everything on the car except common wear issues such as the clutch. Otherwise i would be selling the car as is and taking a hit with it. All the things that we have been heard are specifically covered on the warranty. The turbo is covered as well as the engine. I am trying to make the best out of a horrible situation. If the piston is bad that is all i need for a new motor. Specific literature in the warranty states "a sudden failure to any internally lubricated part" covers everything that would result from a piston going bad. So in my case IF the heads are bad, IF the block is cracked, IF the turbo is shot then we file the claim and get it taken care of. However no clutch results in the car sitting in my driveway which solves absolutely nothing except looking at it. and all i need to do as far as the clutch is purchase parts i wont have to pay for labor since my cousin is doing it for me.
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If the engine is coming out anyway's, the flywheel will be coming off at the dealers, just have them replace it with your stuff during the rebuild.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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Personally I'm amazed the the OP thinks that the extended warranty will cover cracked block/fried piston etc.

It's a third party warranty, they suck to begin with. Cars rarely crack blocks for no reason. The most likely outcome is that they will deny the claim, and say damage is due to abuse/racing etc and cover a few hundred bucks worth off the whole repair bill.

 

I might be wrong and OP might get lucky, but from the 'damage control' point of view this should be the presumption.

666
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i understand your point of view and i respect it. The argument could be made that it was due to abuse or what not but not since my purchase of the car. The point is is that all i need to do is get the car to a garage to have these tests done.....while its there the clutch will be taken care of. I know its a gamble with the warranty but its really all i have to lean on. I can quote the warranty and it does cover the block but only under certain circumstances its not a fun situation but just tryn to make due because regardless im eating the results of NH law and a dealer that has since declined to give us further information on the car.
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  • 3 weeks later...

If it was certified you should have recourse. even having put a couple hundred miles on the car, the clutch should be covered. If you have it towed to another subaru dealer and they check it out, get a list of whats really wrong, then you have a fraud case.

 

Certified means they took the time to check if there were problems with the car. If they told you there were none, then they lied to you. That's Fraud.

All I need now is a hill holder and a center passing light...
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thanks for the further clarification. Its a difficult situation to explain on here but some of the stuff that has been rumored and some of the stuff is true. We specifically told them about the clutch they said straight up they will not cover it. It has since been taken care of but at the time it was not worth my time or the additional headaches to argue about it. At this point id rather take my time and do it right this time around and return the car to its proper state and driving status. I have recently been driving the car and getting a sweet smell (coolant) as well as noticing some oil residue. Brought it to Subaru for a 100 they told me what was up. Coolant hose has a crack, belts need to be changed, oil leak near the timing belt cover, leak from the shifter rod seal?, and bushings. Also who ever worked on the car last put the way bar in upside down!?

 

I understand the fraud part, but also its not fraud if the problems happen after the fact. The car at the time of sale was considered in proper condidtion. Everything that I learned about the car was after and frankly never would of bought the car. I am approaching this situation in this manner.....if i didnt buy the car someone else would be dealing with it. So I am gonna make the best of it, and so call restore the car to the way a LGT should be. That way I know what is fixed and what is new. I could run into a similar problem had I passed on this so at least this way I know what I am getting. Back to my original post about the engine issues, I will tell you for a car that had rumored bad heads, a bad piston, bad turbo and cracked block the thing runs quieter than any stock car I have ever heard. I cant even hear the car idle. Its a pride thing with me, I wanna make this car right so if or when I get rid of it the new owner can be assured the car is running right.

 

Also previous owner appears to have surpassed the 90K service because there were no records of it having that with subaru. Clearly the car was neglected especially later on in its life. Not any more tho. Such a long post but thats where I am standing now, the car will be going in to the shop to have the little things taken care of and the mechanic is gonna get as much done via warranty as possible to cut the costs a little. Keeping my fingers crossed.

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