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96 outback lots of problems


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Should'a warned him. My room mate likes my subby. 96 legacy L 2.2 stick. Dead reliable car. He wrecked his Explorer and got a big check. So I asked him what he would like to get. The list started with Honda CR-V awd, or a Rav4. He found a 96 Subby Legacy outback 2.5 with an overheating problem figuring I could handle that. 129,000 miles $1500. He is not a car guy. :confused: If it starts when ya turn the key, drive it! If it doesn't start, call a wrecker! I helped him with the heating problem and for the most part that is much better. Today he commuted to DesMoines with it to his job. He turned off the interstate onto an off ramp and said he heard a loud thump come from the rear end of the car and it vibrated the rest of the way to work. He called me at my job and said It won't start. (He's trying to start it while on the phone. I can hear the key chime and all that.) He finally got it started and it wouldn't go in reverse. It'll go forward but no reverse. We changed the tranny fluid and filter last night. Solved a pan gasket leak (I Think) and replaced exhaust manifold gaskets, Changed the oil. This thing drives like an old jeep. I hear whines and shudders coming from the rear end. My wagon is much quieter. 128,000 miles. So did this guy just buy somone elses problems? I'm trying to be a good roomie but I can't fix averything.
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Sounds like there are some major problems going on with the transmission or rear end. Its possible that there is a U-Joint problem, but to get to them you have to drop the exhaust and the heat shield.

-broknindarkagain

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I saw all the obstacles under the car and thought "I'm sure glad I don't have to take down the drive shaft." :spin:Maybe I sould just stop looking. Everything I lay eyes on is going to crap, at least regarding this car.
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It doesn't take more then 10 minutes to drop the exhaust. Unbolt both headers and unplug your two o2 sensors. from there back its just rubber hangers. Heat shield has like 6 12mm bolts on it.

 

When I did my clutch, I had all of that out in 10 minutes after I jacked up the car.

-broknindarkagain

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I believe it is an auto so I would try putting the fuse in the FWD thing on the passenger side strut tower. Dont use this a fix but it will pinpoint the problem to being the rear drivetrain.

 

If you put the fuse in and drive it around a few minutes and the problem goes away then most likely it is the center or rear diff.

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I believe it is an auto so I would try putting the fuse in the FWD thing on the passenger side strut tower. Dont use this a fix but it will pinpoint the problem to being the rear drivetrain.

 

If you put the fuse in and drive it around a few minutes and the problem goes away then most likely it is the center or rear diff.

 

I never think of this because I drive a stick. To me the wonder fuse is non-existent lol

-broknindarkagain

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"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing."

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is the rear differential leaking by a quick look under the car? if the fluids low your gonna get a lot of grinding and vibration and if u dont fix that soon your car will only be FWD and it will lose most of its power in the process

 

I would honestly just change both differential fluids before driving it with the fuse or anything. its something thats probably been neglected as its a 1500$ car.

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+1 on changing the diff fluid.

 

I'm not sure how to check transmission codes on the second gen Legacy, but on the first gen its pretty easy. Are there any check engine lights or other warning lights?

 

Its possible that there is an issue with the transfer duty solenoid inside the transmission. That would cause all kinds of shudders coming from the rear drivetrain. If the FWD fuse doesn't help, and neither does changing the diff fluid, you might want to investigate the transmission some more.

 

I'm not sure if the rear diff on this particular 2nd gen is an LSD. Just make sure that when you change the fluid you replace it with the proper gear oil as stated in the manual.

 

None of these transmission issues would account for the engine dying and not starting. For that you should check the battery connections, any grounds you can reach, the starter solenoid, and the starter relay. I wish I could play Dr. House and come up with an easy solution that solved all your problems in one quick post, but these issues seem somewhat unrelated at the moment. Any updates you post could help us narrow down your problems.

 

Good luck. :)

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Guys, I was indisposed and couldn't go out to look at the car which is in DesMoines and i'm in Ames. My Step son went to rescue him and the car thinking if it'll go forward he can limp it home. The report I got from him is that it will need to be flatbedded to Ames and won't roll without considerable effort. It seems there is a lockup condition with the key on or off. What do you make of that? You have tossed me some good ideas most of which will have to be addressed when we get it back home. Fluid changes: I changed the tranny fluid and filter. Some of you know about that. The filter can't be removed unless you drop a tube that crosses it at the end where it goes into the valve body. Could I have not got the filter on properly? Or not seated that tube correctly? If this is the case there is still the fact that it seemed to be in 4wd all the time too, Which could be checked by putting a fuse in the 4wd relay. I know I'm putting out a lot of information but, its come to the point where I have to find a solution or part this thing out. Thanks for your input so far. I'm sure glad I drive a stick.
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The tube isn't really that finicky. If it looks like its in and the bolts are tight chances are its fine. Sometimes when removing an old filter the rubber ring on the filter that gets inserted into the valve body of the transmission can come off inside the valve body. This was a problem with older cars. I haven't had it happen to my Legacy yet, but with that tube where it is I don't think its possible this has happened since the tube wouldn't go back on if the filter wasn't seated in the valve body properly.

 

The car is supposed to be in 4WD all the time. Its an AWD car. The fuse you insert is only for diagnostics and/or emergency use as a limp home feature. Using it all the time is hazardous to the well-being of the center differential.

 

Check the condition of the U-Joints and rear CV shafts. Again, these wouldn't prevent the engine from starting.

 

This is very awkward. Another thing I can think of is maybe the pump has crapped out on you. The main pump is located after the input shaft on the transmission. Since it takes the highest amount of transmission pressure for an automatic transmission to engage reverse or top gear its likely that the pump has broken. Usually they start to die a slow death rather than just blowing to bits though.

 

Another thing to check would be the shift linkage. This would cause the engine to not start and possibly prevent the car from going into reverse. If the shift linkage has been damaged by something the transmission might not be engaging gears properly anymore. If the gear selector says the car is in park, and its really half into reverse the engine would not start. Also, when you do put the transmission in different gears the selector on the console might tell you you're in one gear when you're really not.

 

Try starting the car in each gear. Make a note of every gear the engine will start in. After the engine is running put it in each gear and rev the engine. What you're looking for is if the car is in the wrong gear. Its a good idea to put on the E-Brake a little for this. If you rev the engine in park and the car feels like it wants to lurch backwards park is the new reverse. If you put it into reverse or drive and the engine is revving freely it might be in neutral. Give it a shot and see what you can come up with.

 

Some additional questions....

1) When the car "Didn't Start" did it not crank over at all, or did it crank but it just wouldn't fire?

2) What does the car do when you rev it in each gear (With the brakes on)? Park? Reverse? Neutral? Drive? 3rd? 2nd? 1st?

3) Which gears will the engine crank over in? Try starting it in each gear to figure this out.

4) When they put it on a flatbed, did any of the wheels not spin while they were winching it onto the truck? Did any wheels screech while the car was being pulled?

5) With the engine running, does it make any noise while putting it in different gears?

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