subie-man Posted July 30, 2010 Share Posted July 30, 2010 hey i am kinda new to cars and dont really know much about anything yet but i am slowly but surely learning... and recently i have been hearing a "clunk" "clunk" "clunk" everytime i take a left turn... so i asked a friend that knows more about cars and he told me to check my CV Joint... so i got online and found out what exactly a CV Jiont is and sure enough i look under my car and the CV Joint boot is ripped... i then got online and saw that you can do it yourself with a pretty basic set of tools but it would take a long ass time to do it myself with the amount of knowledge i have... so i called around and it turns out that i can get a new CV Joint for $45. which is fairly cheap... but i am only 18 and dont have a job so i have a very low income, and would have to start saving up... i then asked the same place how much it would cost to install it, and they said about an hour at $60/hr. so that comes out to $105... is that a good deal? P.S. the thing is that i also want to gain the knowledge... but it would take me atleast 3 hours and them only one... so what do you guys think? should i go for the knowledge or should i just not mess with it and pay them the $105 to get it done right and quickly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum_Racing Posted July 31, 2010 Share Posted July 31, 2010 I did a writeup a while back about this, and a search yielded nothing for me. I have no idea where it went, but I can't find it. Its not that hard, you just gotta be willing to get your hands dirty. If you're interested in learning about cars, tackle the job yourself. If not, pay someone else to fix it. The thing is, the more you learn now the more money you can save later. After owning a bunch of old, cheap cars I can say from experience that the more you can fix yourself, the more money goes back into your pocket. If you have the tools (1/2" drive Breaker bar, 3/8" drive or 1/2" drive ratchet, flathead screwdriver, 17MM socket, 17MM wrench, 32MM socket, center punch, hammer) You're good to go. You can probably rent the 32MM socket from Advance Autoparts. You pay cash up front, then get all the money back when you bring them the tool back. Its a great deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sqc151 Posted July 31, 2010 Share Posted July 31, 2010 this site pisses me off sometimes. i just wrote up a whole DIY list and bam, freaking site signs me out. then everything i just wrote dissapears. i feel like i just wasted 10 mins of my life... UGH!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum_Racing Posted July 31, 2010 Share Posted July 31, 2010 That sucks. I hate when that happens. Lately I just copy/paste the post every so often just so I don't loose it all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subie-man Posted August 1, 2010 Author Share Posted August 1, 2010 I did a writeup a while back about this, and a search yielded nothing for me. I have no idea where it went, but I can't find it. Its not that hard, you just gotta be willing to get your hands dirty. If you're interested in learning about cars, tackle the job yourself. If not, pay someone else to fix it. The thing is, the more you learn now the more money you can save later. After owning a bunch of old, cheap cars I can say from experience that the more you can fix yourself, the more money goes back into your pocket. If you have the tools (1/2" drive Breaker bar, 3/8" drive or 1/2" drive ratchet, flathead screwdriver, 17MM socket, 17MM wrench, 32MM socket, center punch, hammer) You're good to go. You can probably rent the 32MM socket from Advance Autoparts. You pay cash up front, then get all the money back when you bring them the tool back. Its a great deal. hey man thanks alot for the reply... so ya i am interested in cars and the way they work and what all the parts of the car does but truthfully i have just started learning the things that i know (which is very little) but i was thinking about going to class for a mechanic so that i could learn the trade... but right now like i said i know next to nothing and it would take me for freakin ever... but i have the time on my hands its just the knowlege and the tools that i am short of... and do you think i could just use the internet to get all the info i need on the internet or should i spend like $25 to get a repair manual for my car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy Wagon Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 You could find everything you need on the internet, but you cant take it outside with you. A manual is going to help, but it's very technical and wont assess the problems you could encounter as well as real people. It's kind of a lose/lose haha The CV axle is pretty easy to replace unless the castle nut gets heat welded on there. If that's the case it's best to find a junk yard with a wheel hub and replace the hub. $45 for a CV axle is cheap, but I'm sure they'll need your core. I've turned in one before with the hub stuck to it and they took it. I was surprised. This would be a good learning experience for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sqc151 Posted August 2, 2010 Share Posted August 2, 2010 You could find everything you need on the internet, but you cant take it outside with you. who says u cant take the internet outside with u?? i take my internet outside with me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subie-man Posted August 3, 2010 Author Share Posted August 3, 2010 ya i have a laptop with a USB drive for wireless internet so i could take it out side and thanks alot for all the help... i actually walked in today and asked them about it and they took it off of another car and called me and gave it to me for $35. so i am gonna start the project tomoro... is there any website that you recomend other than this one for car repairs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum_Racing Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 Honestly, I hate to admit it but AutoZone has online repair guides that should give you an idea of what you're up against. Here is a condensed walkthrough... This is for the front CV shaft BTW. The rear is similar, but in many ways easier. I have the feeling since you said it does this while turning that you're replacing the front left shaft. Put the e-brake on, put something big and heavy behind the rear tires, loosen the lug nuts, jack the car up and remove the wheel. Support the car with jackstands, or stick the wheel under the car for safety in case the car falls. Take the screw driver and the hammer and locate the brake hose. The brake hose will go through a piece of sheet metal welded to the strut. It is held in place with a small clip. Use the screwdriver and hammer to lightly tap this clip off, releasing the brake hose from the strut. Next mark the upper strut bolt on the knuckle with a Sharpie, with a corresponding mark on the knuckle itself so you know which way to put it back. This bolt is essential to proper wheel alignment, so it must go back the same way it came out. Use the 17MM socket on a breaker bar with a 17mm wrench to loosen the lower strut bolts that hold the strut to the knuckle (Loosen them, but leave them in for now). After they're loose, use the 32mm socket and the breaker bar to remove the large axle nut in the center of the hub. The nut may be located under a metal dome-like cap in the center of the brake rotor. Its the cap in the center of the wheel, in case you have trouble finding it. Use the screwdriver to pop the cap off the car, exposing the 32mm nut. Once the 32mm nut is removed, finish taking off the lower strut bolts. You'll notice one of the bolts is strange looking. This is the eccentric bolt, and after playing with it in your hands for a while you'll be able to see how it affects the wheel alignment. See, you're learning already. With the lower strut bolts removed, tap on the end of the CV shaft with a hammer. You can pull the entire knuckle towards you if it makes it easier. Once the shaft breaks free from the wheel bearings inside the knuckle and slides forward and back a ways fairly easily you can take the center punch and the hammer and get under the car. You're looking for the part of the CV shaft that comes out of the transmission. It will be a large metal cylinder with a small hole in it. If you can't see it, put the car in neutral and rotate the shaft until you can see the small hole. Once you locate the hole, insert the center punch and give it a few good whacks with the hammer. You're trying to push the pin inside this hole out of the shaft. Once you have it removed (It may take some finagling to get it out), slide the CV shaft off of the output shaft of the transmission. If it doesn't slide off easily, you probably have to remove the other side of the shaft first. To do this, wiggle the knuckle around and tap on the end of the CV shaft with the hammer. I found while doing my CV shaft that if you turn the knuckle as though the car was taking a sharp turn it comes out fairly easy. With both ends of the shaft free the shaft should come off. Reverse the process to reinstall the new shaft. Just remember that the new axle nut (The one that goes under the metal dome-like cap) needs to be peened. After it is installed on the shaft, take the center punch and the hammer and dent the flange on the nut so that the metal bends into the slot in the CV shaft. Another helpful tip to make installing the pin for the transmission side of the shaft easier is to pinch it with a pair of pliers and get it started into the new shaft BEFORE trying to install the new shaft into the car. Remember to torque all the nuts and bolts down nice and tight. You really don't need a torque wrench for this job, just so long as you make everything nice and tight when you put everything back together. All the bolts you have to remove are very tough, so don't be afraid to put pressure on them to make them tight. If you want, coat the bolts with Anti-Seize before putting the car back together. That way if you have to take this apart later for some other reason you won't have to fight to get things apart. Lastly, make sure you line up the marks on the upper strut bolt as closely as possible. When reinstalling this bolt you'll notice that as the bolt rotates it alters the angle (Camber) of the knuckle. This bolt is one of the things repair shops will adjust when you take a car in for a wheel alignment. Well I guess that wasn't as condensed as I had hoped, but if you need any clarification or have any questions feel free to ask. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy Wagon Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 Jerks...with your fancy internet and all. I remember back in my day when we didnt have this "wi-fi" and "portable computers". (I'm 23 by the way) In actuality I paid $500 for my laptop and there's no way that thing's going into the garage with me haha I'm just cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subie-man Posted August 4, 2010 Author Share Posted August 4, 2010 Well I guess that wasn't as condensed as I had hoped, but if you need any clarification or have any questions feel free to ask. hey thanks alot for the help man i am gonna try to tackle this thursday but i have a question... is there any grease or anything like that that i need to install the the good CV Joint or does it just fit right in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subie-man Posted August 4, 2010 Author Share Posted August 4, 2010 Jerks...with your fancy internet and all. I remember back in my day when we didnt have this "wi-fi" and "portable computers". (I'm 23 by the way) In actuality I paid $500 for my laptop and there's no way that thing's going into the garage with me haha I'm just cheap. hell... even i remember the day before the internet, and im 18... back when i got a nintendo 64 for christmas one year lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum_Racing Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 Hell, I remember I thought I was the shiznit because all my friends were getting the Super Nintendo while I got the SEGA Genesis. When I finally got the Genesis 32X addon I was the coolest damn kid on the block. One of the first PC games I ever played was one of the old text based games like Leisure Suit Larry and Police Quest. Damn straight! Anyway, it should just slide right in. If you want to use some Anti-Seize on the bolts that would be a good idea. Just get a bottle of Permatex Anti-Seize (The grey bottle with the brush built into the cover) and lather a dab of it on all the bolts when you put everything back together. Putting that stuff on hardware with metal on metal contact will prevent them from becoming rusted together over time, making future repairs or maintenance easier. I also forgot when I made my original post that the CV shaft in your car is broken already, so its going to be a lot easier to take out than a normal shaft that's still intact. It will save you quite a bit of time since you won't have to shimmy the old shaft out of the car. And with that, I'll leave you guys with a couple of my favorite all-time Sega Genesis games...... http://www.pwned.com/gamecovers/segagenesis/168b82d33f8073018c50a4f658a02559-Columns.jpghttp://content.answers.com/main/content/img/amg/games/drg000/g066/g06612mr20u.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subie-man Posted August 4, 2010 Author Share Posted August 4, 2010 Hell, I remember I thought I was the shiznit because all my friends were getting the Super Nintendo while I got the SEGA Genesis. When I finally got the Genesis 32X addon I was the coolest damn kid on the block. One of the first PC games I ever played was one of the old text based games like Leisure Suit Larry and Police Quest. Damn straight! Anyway, it should just slide right in. If you want to use some Anti-Seize on the bolts that would be a good idea. Just get a bottle of Permatex Anti-Seize (The grey bottle with the brush built into the cover) and lather a dab of it on all the bolts when you put everything back together. Putting that stuff on hardware with metal on metal contact will prevent them from becoming rusted together over time, making future repairs or maintenance easier. I also forgot when I made my original post that the CV shaft in your car is broken already, so its going to be a lot easier to take out than a normal shaft that's still intact. It will save you quite a bit of time since you won't have to shimmy the old shaft out of the car. nice man, nice the genisis definately has some games that can kill hours of the day well i was just wondering because i was talking to my homie and he said that i would probably have to put some kinda grease where the CV joins the transmission and where it is in the tire? and i could just go to napa to get that stuff right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Platinum_Racing Posted August 5, 2010 Share Posted August 5, 2010 You could just get a tub of red wheel bearing grease. Its not that expensive, one tub lasts forever, and it has multiple uses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subie-man Posted August 5, 2010 Author Share Posted August 5, 2010 allright awesome man thanks alot i am gonna tackle this tomoro i hope but we will see.. lo thanks a lot for the rpelies man you have been a great help thanks alot man your a savour Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffzguy Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 Ya platinum, you just gave me a copy of your write up and I compared it to the haynes book, bit different but same amount of time and work. Anyways I went to take out my cv shaft, let me start by saying that the car was so friggin rusty I had to spend 15-30 minutes per wheel pounding them off the hubs with a sledge hammer. Anyways I punched out the tab on the bolt and put a breaker bar on the nut. Um, I was standing on the breaker bar (all 220 lbs of me) and nothing, almost broke the breaker. I am going to try an impact and if that doesn't work then I'm buying this handy 3x tourque multiplier that will put out 2000 ft-lbs of force. Basically a pain in the rear car. I was going at it thinking, "oh ill replace the brake pads and front cv shafts" but its all so rusty I snapped some studs and turns out the rotors and ball joints are toast so it needs a lot! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy Wagon Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 Ya platinum, you just gave me a copy of your write up and I compared it to the haynes book, bit different but same amount of time and work. Anyways I went to take out my cv shaft, let me start by saying that the car was so friggin rusty I had to spend 15-30 minutes per wheel pounding them off the hubs with a sledge hammer. Anyways I punched out the tab on the bolt and put a breaker bar on the nut. Um, I was standing on the breaker bar (all 220 lbs of me) and nothing, almost broke the breaker. I am going to try an impact and if that doesn't work then I'm buying this handy 3x tourque multiplier that will put out 2000 ft-lbs of force. Basically a pain in the rear car. I was going at it thinking, "oh ill replace the brake pads and front cv shafts" but its all so rusty I snapped some studs and turns out the rotors and ball joints are toast so it needs a lot! *sigh* Story of my life. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sqc151 Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 lol, pretty funny. when i have to change a part im like "ugh" im gonna have to change this, im gonna have to change that... a 25 job turns into a 250 dollar job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffzguy Posted August 9, 2010 Share Posted August 9, 2010 This was a 140 job turning into a 350 dollar job so ya about right... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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