apexjapan Posted July 14, 2010 Posted July 14, 2010 21mm Front anti-roll bar Polyurethane Bushing install guide. This, generally, is a quick job to do. It should take 30 minutes to an hour at most, depending on the state of the various nuts/bolts you need to remove. Older cars should probably get some loosening agents on them before hand. This is another job that is perhaps easiest with the car on some ramps, instead of jacking it up into the air and putting it on jackstands. That is so there is no tension on the anti-roll bar, which makes bolting and unbolting of parts much easier. I recommend some safety glasses, overalls, and a hat while you are doing this. The underside of the car gathers a lot of dirt, and you'll get liberally sprayed with it while you are working. Tools recommended: 14mm and 12mm Socket, 14mm wrench, dirty rag, and brake cleaner (more on that later). http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/bushing/bushing_001.jpg And don't forget the bar to hit the car with… I mean, a breaker bar. The 14mm bolts are especially tight, and will most likely need the breaker bar to get loose. http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/bushing/bushing_002.jpg Two 21mm bushings and the grease. Don't forget the grease! http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/bushing/bushing_003.jpg Removal is simple - there is 3 14mm bolts holding the brace on, and then one 12mm bolt and one 12mm nut holding the bracket for the bushing on. The driver's side is fairly straight forward, while the passenger side, the exhaust is in the way slightly, this is what you need the 14mm wrench for. Unless you want to remove the exhaust just so you can use a socket! http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/bushing/bushing_004.jpg Pop the bracket off, and then just slide the bushing towards the wheel, where you can then remove it easily. http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/bushing/bushing_005.jpg The OEM bushing says 20mm, but it's more like a 20.5mm bar. We've found the 21mm bushing to be just right. One tip here is to get a dirty rag, spray some brake cleaner on it, and clean the inside of the bracket off. I found a lot of rubber had stuck itself to the metal, but it came off with a bit of work. http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/bushing/bushing_006.jpg Get some grease on the inside of the bushing, this is to reduce or eliminate any "creaking" noises. http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/bushing/bushing_007.jpg I also cleaned the bar itself with a rag and brake cleaner, so I had a somewhat clean surface to work the new 21mm AVO bushing onto. It's a lot tougher than the OEM rubber bushing, so it takes a bit of effort to get it on the bar. Then just slide it down to the correct position. http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/bushing/bushing_008.jpg Once it's roughly in place, put the bracket back on to it and get it fully aligned. The OEM bracket should have an arrow on it showing which direction it orients (arrow pointing towards front of car). http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/bushing/bushing_009.jpg Do the other side, and voila! Ready to go! Make sure to check all the nuts one last time. http://www.avoturboworld.com/images/stories/2010/07_july/bushing/bushing_010.jpg After you finish up, you may want to drive it around a bit just to get everything settled in, then re-torque all the nuts and bolts one more time to make sure they are all tight. Regards, Paul Hansen http://www.avoturboworld.com
kram Posted July 15, 2010 Posted July 15, 2010 Thanks for the detailed write-up! This is on my 'to-do' list.
Max Capacity Posted July 16, 2010 Posted July 16, 2010 Thanks for the detailed write-up! This is on my 'to-do' list. Yea, me to....like everything else....someday. Are the rears 19mm ? Thanks Paul 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here
apexjapan Posted July 20, 2010 Author Posted July 20, 2010 On the Outback? More like 14-15mm. We don't have bushings that small, I'm not sure if anybody does. I just went ahead and put a larger OEM JDM bar on. Regards, Paul Hansen http://www.avoturboworld.com
_karu_ Posted March 27, 2013 Posted March 27, 2013 Thanks for the write up! I also would like to get it out and replaced. I heard that it's not a good idea to use petroleum based grease since the bushing itself is made out of rubber. So, silicone based grease is the way to go.
98legwag Posted August 25, 2014 Posted August 25, 2014 Just adding some info for the H6. The exhaust slightly gets in the way on both sides. If anything I would say more so on the driver's side. Also, if you still have a splash guard under the engine its easiest to take if off first. That is held on by a few plastic popits and 3 12mm bolts.
Merc6 Posted August 27, 2014 Posted August 27, 2014 sub'd 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD)
Captain Jones Posted December 6, 2015 Posted December 6, 2015 Do the new polyurethane bushings need to be cut in order to fit them onto the swaybar? In the side by side photo above, compared to oem there doesn't seem to be an opening in the circumference on the aftermarkets. I just ordered the ES bushing set and they look similar.
Captain Jones Posted December 11, 2015 Posted December 11, 2015 So my poly bushings arrived today... There are no openings in the circumference of the bushing. Do I need to cut an opening, or just slide over the swaybar (remove the link kit)?
awsom0 Posted January 17, 2016 Posted January 17, 2016 I cut them to make installation easier, don't see an issue as long as everything is tightened down.
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