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spec.B guys please help with lowering springs


BigBlack-V

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edit: i only had clunking when my top hat nut was loose

 

Just noticed this. OP you should definitely pop off your front dust caps and check these bolts. Mine was clunking a bit with the pinks a few days after installing and found that both of my front top hat nuts were loose :redface::spin:

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would these front and rear springs be the proper part number for my 08 spec.B?

 

 

Front: ST2033021010 (GT Sedan Manual)

Rear: ST2038021000 (GT Sedan Manual)

 

 

There is a guy selling a set for $325 shipped used.

 

As berkshire40 said, some sedan owners go for rear wagon springs which are a little bit longer and will avoid the 'saggy butt' appearance. For an ideal look (even fender gaps) use the fronts you listed, but go with ST2038021010 for the rear. That's what I'm doing, once we reach enough people for the group buy...

2013 Ford Taurus SHO

2009 Spec.B SWP Stg 2+ Airboy tuned

2010 Toyota Sequoia Platinum 5.7

 

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SO with the chart its hard to tell the drop difference between the pink springs and Cobb springs. Would someone here know the inch diff drop on a spec.B between Cobb's and pinks?

 

 

 

 

As berkshire40 said, some sedan owners go for rear wagon springs which are a little bit longer and will avoid the 'saggy butt' appearance. For an ideal look (even fender gaps) use the fronts you listed, but go with ST2038021010 for the rear. That's what I'm doing, once we reach enough people for the group buy...

 

I have saggy butt spacers in the car now and last night I just put on my BBS wheels. I measures the gaps between the front and rear and its exactly a 3 finger gap which is sweet. The specs on the springs above will work though since its being sold as a set for $325 shipped?

I was 0.

 

 

 

And I'm still a zero.

 

:lol:

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IIRC Pinks give a drop of around 15mm? So just about 5/8 inch. Very slight.

 

 

So its about 3/4" all around drop if i am doing my math correct vs. my Cobbs which are 1.75" front and 1" rear...

 

My Cobbs arent making as much noise with my BBS's on but its still annoying. I am not sure if its worth keeping the Cobbs on and dealing with the noise or spending the $600+ on pinks and install then alignment on top of that. Will I really notice that much of a diff between the two?

I was 0.

 

 

 

And I'm still a zero.

 

:lol:

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Get the springs via the GB. Do the install yourself. Very easy and done with minimal tools. You dont even need a spring compressor. Then get a lifetime alignment from Firestone. $150 and good for as long as you own the car. Get the thing aligned every 5 or 6k miles from here on out. $450 or so. Then sell the Cobbs in the classifieds. Bet you get at least $100 for them. Now the cost is acceptable, and you have some good experience with your car.
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Pinks group buy price is $340 + shipping, install is easy - you can do it yourself no problem If you don't have spring compressors, your local parts store will rent them to you for free. Other than that all you need is a jack, jack stands, and socket set. A 4 wheel alignment might run you $80.

 

The Cobb springs were never designed for the Bilsteins, where the Pinks obviously were. Depending on which exact part numbers you use, your drop will be very similar to the Cobb's.

 

Here's a pic of a spec B (vwown3d's) w/Bilsteins using the following part numbers

Front: ST2033021010 Rear: ST2038021000

 

- If you want the rear slightly higher, use the rear 1010's

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b330/vwown3d/IMG_8785.jpg

2013 Ford Taurus SHO

2009 Spec.B SWP Stg 2+ Airboy tuned

2010 Toyota Sequoia Platinum 5.7

 

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305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I just went stage 2 today, so its time to start planning my next mod. i want to fix the squat durring accelleration= Need new springs. is the overall concensus that the Pinks are the best option for the Spec.B ?

 

living in Maine, i am a little concerned about clearence because of the winters and the horribly maintained roads.

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I've got Swift springs, front and rear. Love 'em. Nice drop. I ended up putting a saggy butt spacer to level out the ride height. Paired with cobb sways, front and rear and the car handles very nicely.

 

Running the exact same setup. Absolutely love it.

 

Took some time getting used to the Swift springs both in terms of drop and stiffness but now love them.

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Several years ago I did my own spring install on my WRX and it was a PITA. I had a compressor but I would rather just pay someone honestly. The pinks that vwown3d's has are the ones I will buy for $325 shipped. I have to get the allignment done sooner then later due to the negative camber on my car from the 18's with 245 width tires. I want a spring designed for the Bilsteins and if that means a little less of a drop so be it. I am running 17" STI BBS wheels on my car now and I have a spacer on the rear strut which raises the rear end to a even 3 finger gap all around.

 

I would have gone with Swift spings like alot of LGT guys run but I dont think they are designed specifically for the Bilstein suspension.

 

 

Pinks group buy price is $340 + shipping, install is easy - you can do it yourself no problem If you don't have spring compressors, your local parts store will rent them to you for free. Other than that all you need is a jack, jack stands, and socket set. A 4 wheel alignment might run you $80.

 

The Cobb springs were never designed for the Bilsteins, where the Pinks obviously were. Depending on which exact part numbers you use, your drop will be very similar to the Cobb's.

 

Here's a pic of a spec B (vwown3d's) w/Bilsteins using the following part numbers

Front: ST2033021010 Rear: ST2038021000

 

- If you want the rear slightly higher, use the rear 1010's

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b330/vwown3d/IMG_8785.jpg

I was 0.

 

 

 

And I'm still a zero.

 

:lol:

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They most definitely are. ;)

 

 

are you positive? are the swift springs made for the spec.B the same part # or spring that are made for a reg LGT without the bilsteins?

I was 0.

 

 

 

And I'm still a zero.

 

:lol:

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Yeah, I would've bought those off of vwown3d already, if the rears were 1010's. Personally i think it has a little butt sag going on which I'm trying to avoid. But if that is no big deal to you, you should jump all over those. That's a decent price for used Pinks with not too many miles on them.

2013 Ford Taurus SHO

2009 Spec.B SWP Stg 2+ Airboy tuned

2010 Toyota Sequoia Platinum 5.7

 

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Swifts are JDM. Designed and engineered around the JDM car. So, yes they are designed around the Bilsteins. My Tokico/Swift set up is currently for sale as my 5EAT was in an accident.

 

No spring compressor needed for the install. Only time you need a spring compressor on a LGT is if putting the OEM spring back on. Off is fine, only enough pressure to shoot the tophat nut a few inches. With the shorter springs (Cobb and Pinks) no compressor needed to install. But the local auto parts store will loan them for free.

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Yeah, I would've bought those off of vwown3d already, if the rears were 1010's. Personally i think it has a little butt sag going on which I'm trying to avoid. But if that is no big deal to you, you should jump all over those. That's a decent price for used Pinks with not too many miles on them.

 

with the springs he has will the saggy butt spacers solve that issue like they did with my Cobb's?

Swifts are JDM. Designed and engineered around the JDM car. So, yes they are designed around the Bilsteins. My Tokico/Swift set up is currently for sale as my 5EAT was in an accident.

 

No spring compressor needed for the install. Only time you need a spring compressor on a LGT is if putting the OEM spring back on. Off is fine, only enough pressure to shoot the tophat nut a few inches. With the shorter springs (Cobb and Pinks) no compressor needed to install. But the local auto parts store will loan them for free.

 

How much am i losing using the Cobbs with the Bilsteins? Does the car act and handle that much different? What do Swifts normally cost new or used? I am sorry for all the questions but today I need to try and figure out if its my springs that are making noise or a bushing or something. it is def coming from the front of the car and even when I get out of the car I can hear the noise. I am only 185lbs also...

I was 0.

 

 

 

And I'm still a zero.

 

:lol:

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Swifts are around $300.

 

Hard to say what you are "losing" with the Cobbs. Just that the spring is prob a itle soft for the strut.

 

I use(d) Tokico HTS with Swift Springs (wagon specific) and 3/8 saggy butt shims on my 2008 5EAT. Perfect stance. Nice adjustment. Rode good enough to get around NYC all winter.

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yeah the spacers should visually solve the butt sag problem, it's just that you're losing a little bit of spring travel by doing that, and opening up the possibility for squeaks from the rear upper mount area due to the spacers not being rubber....but probably not a big deal.

2013 Ford Taurus SHO

2009 Spec.B SWP Stg 2+ Airboy tuned

2010 Toyota Sequoia Platinum 5.7

 

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The shims cause no loss of travel or preload. Using two upper spring seats does. This is the way it was done before the shims were available. I used the shims for 20k miles with no noises or issues. Shims work just like the tophats on many coil overs.
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The shims cause no loss of travel or preload. Using two upper spring seats does. This is the way it was done before the shims were available. I used the shims for 20k miles with no noises or issues. Shims work just like the tophats on many coil overs.

 

 

The shims that are on my car now are white and when they were installed he installed them through the trunk. I am guessing they went on the top of the rear strut to raise the car a little. Is this the same shim you are speaking of? It is a very hard plastic piece the previous owner gave them to me but never installed them. When I pick up vWowned's springs the rear will have that issue I am assuming however these shims will solve the issue.

 

If these are not the correct shims where do I get a set from that will work properly?

 

I am also wondering about the pink spring drop vs. my Cobbs. I know I have talked about this before but it seems the pink springs are 3/4 drop all around so vs. my current Cobbs its going to be 1/2 the drop in the front and close to the same drop in the rear...? Confusing part is Cobb uses inches and Subaru pink uses mm's.......?

I was 0.

 

 

 

And I'm still a zero.

 

:lol:

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You have the correct style shim already.

 

You might not need them if using Pinks. If using Swifts, the car has too much rear rake without them, IMHO. The car has too much from the factory. I know it is an optical illusion, but I don't like it.

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So I ended up taking my car to a well known alignment shop I CT they found out the problem was dry and rusted front and rear sway bushings. Good news it's all fixed and I don't need new springs. I am going to keep the cobbs as they work fine even though they aren't the perfect spring for my Bilsteins. The bad new is they charged an hour labor to remove the sways plus the alignment. I am upset they didn't call first and I know that's illegal but I'm ok with it as I don't have a lift and he greased it up good. So in the end no springs are needed the fix was simple.

 

Thank you for the help and if I do new springs in the future I have the knowledge

I was 0.

 

 

 

And I'm still a zero.

 

:lol:

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