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Looks like Whiteline is comming out with more bushings for the BL/BP LGT


whitetiger

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Subframe and diff bushings should finish off the back end of my car.

While you guys were racing,i was stuck at work. Made the best of it by installing the KTA124 toe/camber arms. KSR207 rack bushings and an alignment are next.

 

Glad to see Whiteline still investing in BP/BL parts.

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well, I sent some emails, and it seems that Whiteline has the the rear trailing arm bushings W63217 in stock along with some others.

 

from globalperformanceparts.com

I heard back from Whiteline and they have the following in stock:

W63225

W93230

W93231

W63217

ETA would be 4-6 weeks

 

 

These are still in development:

W93388

W93386

W93387

ETA unknown

 

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They are expensive but they save a bunch of weight. Like 7-8lbs/side if I recall correctly. Combine it with aluminum upper links and WL camber and toe links and you have... well, my suspension. :)

 

I will find out if we can get these parts for you guys.

 

http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/2976/img8202s.jpg

 

http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/673/img8207s.jpg

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Okay, so just to be clear:

 

http://www.whiteline.com.au/Plus/part_images_new/thumbs/tn_W63217.jpg

W63217 is the front bushing for the rear trailing arm.

 

http://www.whiteline.com.au/Plus/part_images_new/thumbs/tn_W63225.jpg

W63225 are replacement bushings for the upper control arm.

 

I can't quite discern where W93230 and W93231 go. How do these compare to the normal KDT903 that some people have used (diff inserts)?

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http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/2976/img8202s.jpg

 

Looks like the backend of my car as well.

Small observation....shouldn't the helper spring on your coilover be extended at this point? With the suspension at full droop,the spring should not be fully compressed. In other words why have it at all?

Are we doing a little V2 exhaust testing?:)

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Looks like the backend of my car as well.

Small observation....shouldn't the helper spring on your coilover be extended at this point? With the suspension at full droop,the spring should not be fully compressed. In other words why have it at all?

Are we doing a little V2 exhaust testing?:)

 

Very observant my friend. :)

 

Regarding the helper spring... I didn't even notice that as I was fixated on the KTA124 and the exhaust install. The inner bolt on my 4BoxParts camber links had frozen on both sides and I spent at least an hour extracting each side... the nut would spin right off but the bolt and sleeve bushing had frozen solid. :(

 

Upon reviewing my pictures, it appears both sides have the helper springs in the fully compressed state at full droop. I think it's rather unlikely that the divider has seized to the shock body on both sides, especially since I clean the coilovers every six months when I swap wheels.

 

The alternative is that I have the ride height adjusted so high that the helpers are fully compressed even at full droop... Seems unlikely though since I lowered the car from the RCE preset height (-1.22"F/-.34"R from stock). Actually... now that I do the math, -.34 is only ~8.6mm which is very close to what RCE ships (-10mm). I guess I'm really not sure. :redface:

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No, you sacrifice compression travel by lowering ride height.

 

Think about it... you have the same amount of shock stroke either way. If you are lower than you are starting at a lower point in the stroke so you can't go down as far (compression), but you can extend (droop, rebound) the remainder of the stroke.

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Are most people running the RCE's at a lower ride height than what they are set up for? It looks to me one would be sacrificing droop travel for lower ride height.

 

No, if you had stock ride height the helper spring might be slightly uncompressed at full droop, but not much.

 

There is enough compression in the rear, it is the front that will suffer if lowered too much.

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