Transmission slipping?

[Jeffzguy]

So I can't really tell because this is my very first automatic but only when I hit the gas enough to downshift it kinda feels like a clutch slipping for a few seconds. Am I dreaming or is there something goin on?

[Legacy Wagon]

Well your torque converter's probably old. If it's only in 1st to 2nd shift I wouldn't worry too much. If it's pretty quick or maybe a bit rougher shift it's just because it's an old car and has to learn your driving habits. If it's actually a few seconds (not an exaggeration) and then it shifts really hard into gear you may have a problem.

[Jeffzguy]

I notice it when it downshifts into third from fourth, and its about 1-1.5 seconds (no exaggeration) and then gently drops a few hundred RPM and feels like it engages then I let off and it shifts nicely back to 4th. Also it only happens around 40-60% throttle, if I pin it its fine...

 

It's not affecting my driving at all I just figured I would mention it just in case it might lead to something later.

[Legacy Wagon]

Worst case scenario you have to replace the transmission, which is going to suck much more since you have no junk yards around you (not that they're guaranteed to work, but they would be much cheaper)

 

If it gets progressively worse I would start to worry, but if it stays like that just keep driving it. You can always do a transmission flush or get one done, but just make sure that they change the filter.

[Platinum_Racing]

 

If it gets progressively worse I would start to worry, but if it stays like that just keep driving it. You can always do a transmission flush or get one done, but just make sure that they change the filter.

 

True. +1 on making sure they change the filter, most mainsteam places put the car on a machine that pumps transmission fluid through the tranny via the transmission coolant lines. This isn't ideal because the old filter is still old, and contaminated. Plus, this hardly drains anything from the torque converter. At least a full transmission flush will drain something from the torque converter.

 

I'd give it a flush. Its not that hard, just make sure you're not checking or replacing the diff fluid, as it's very easy to get that confused on these cars (I know from experience ).

 

As far as the shifting is concerned, it should be fine. If you're talking about highway speeds, then the slow drop in RPM's is the torque converter locking at speed. When the throttle is over a certain point, the converter cannot lock as quickly as it would under easy driving conditions. If this is at regular speed under 65 MPH then chances are its just a lazy shift, which is normal for these cars as they get older. Don't fear, however, it's not a sign of wear. These transmissions are EXTREMELY durable, to the point that you hardly ever hear of one failing. Most times when you hear about these transmissions failing its in the more powerful, 240HP SVX. The SVX has way more power and no dedicated transmission cooler. The Subaru 4EAT shares many internal components with the Nissan 4 speed auto transmission in the second and third generation Pathfinders. The clutch packs are beefed up a bit, and the transmission case is different, but the gear packs are virtually identical. The Nissan doesn't have a center diff though. Instead it's hooked up to a transfer case like a normal 4X4. Since I own both a second gen Pathfinder and a first gen Legacy, I can attest to the similarities, even the feel of the locking torque converter. The Pathfinder has way more low end torque and is a way heavier car though, so it's also a good testament to the strength of the transmissions internals. Nissan wouldn't have bought the stuff from Subaru to make the transmission if they didn't think it was going to work.

 

If the 4EAT can move a heavier Nissan SUV with a 3.3 V6, and a 3.3 boxer 6 in the SVX, it should outlast most everything on your first gen Legacy.

[bepa]

these tranys go bad often! when down shifting it is a sign of the clutch pack going away.

 

some good news is blackbart on legacy central has a few last time I looked. also can use an SVX unit as well.

 

when changing the fuilds in an old automatic trany you are in fact flushing out the thicker fuild. new is thiner cause it does not have the little bits of the clutches that has wore off.

 

the first generation legacy would eat trany's. having had over 12 of these I know first hand about this.

 

if you replace it two thing should be done. put an after market cooler on it. second have the trany rebuilded.

 

good luck and to make it last as long as possible down shift with the gear selector. that will help alot. you may want to let the trany get in gear before going back to the power also.

 

be well, Bepa

[Platinum_Racing]

Shifting with the gear selector eats the clutch packs way worse than letting the car do it on its own.

 

Ever notice the car jerks when up shifting with the selector, and nose dives when downshifting with the selector? That's your clutch packs being worked to the max. If you're smart with the throttle you can minimize the stress, but it's still not better for the transmission than to let it take care of the shifting itself.

[bepa]

having been employed at transmissions shops and working with several managers for same I have been shown many things.

 

yes upshifts and downshift will move the front end but it is okay and allowed to manually shift your automatic tranys.

 

have you read any reviews of new cars as of late. done all the time by test drivers. sugar if it could not take it you need to buy a different car.

 

first two automatic I got from subaru the automatics would not hold up to wot upshift's. traded in second one for a stick.

 

I learned to let off the gas just before the up shift. still it did not live up to the torque of the turbo at full boost.

 

still I love these cars. have own or had more then 14 of them. know a little about them. even passed a couple of them to Blackbart.

 

either way if it can't be shift up and down it is worthless to own.

 

be well bepa