Skyguardian Posted May 20, 2010 Share Posted May 20, 2010 this may have been discussed before but oh well .. I just bought a set of F/R Zero/Sports sway bars and I'm still debating if I want to go with solid or spherical endlinks. I'll buy the AVO reinforcement bracket to go with it. The car is mainly for DD but will see a few track days this summer ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tito_b0y Posted May 20, 2010 Share Posted May 20, 2010 Kartboys http://www.fredbeansparts.com/index.php/suspension-parts/sway-bars-sway-bar-links/kartboy-subaru-legacy-gt-sway-bar-end-links.html Currently on my wishlist 2006 SWP 3.0R 5EAT VDC BBQ 2008 OBP 2.5i 4EAT BBQ [RIP] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecBGuy Posted May 20, 2010 Share Posted May 20, 2010 im using rallitek endlinks which are similar to stock but stronger with 5yr warrenty. great price too and fits great. good luck with avo rbs i had a hard time. if you dont have a high torque air wrench take to to a shop and ask if they can loosen it for you after take it back and tell them to tighten it for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 20, 2010 Share Posted May 20, 2010 I just bought Parin's from my Tuner I'll put them on over the long weekend, $135.00 for the fronts. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mindspin311 Posted May 20, 2010 Share Posted May 20, 2010 Im a fan of the Rallitek links. Stock design, stronger, affordable, warranty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skyguardian Posted May 20, 2010 Author Share Posted May 20, 2010 alright thanks for your input ! So far the best choice/bang for the buck seems to be rallitek HD's .... Tjanks for the input on the AVO rsb, I only have an electrical impact so that won't do Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 20, 2010 Share Posted May 20, 2010 FWIW, I just had to use a cutoff wheel to remove the end links on a 97 Honda Prelude. There end links mount the same way as the Subaru's. Some engineer thought it was a good idea to put a internal hex in the stud with a big nut that rust's onto the stud. Hint, cut the end link off close to the bar and then use a punch to drive the stud out towards the nut. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mindspin311 Posted May 21, 2010 Share Posted May 21, 2010 Yea that internal hex thing F'in sucks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skyguardian Posted May 21, 2010 Author Share Posted May 21, 2010 thanks for the heads up on the endlink ! I'll do that if I can't remove them with the rusted nut ... do you know if there's a writeup somewhere for front and rear sways installation ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mindspin311 Posted May 21, 2010 Share Posted May 21, 2010 Real simple on the front. 1. Take off the under tray 2. Remove the brace that is bolted to the subframe, its like 8-12 bolts 3. Remove swaybar 4. Repeat in reverse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mindspin311 Posted May 21, 2010 Share Posted May 21, 2010 Oh and dont burn yourself on the exhaust if the car happens to have been on for a bit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skyguardian Posted May 21, 2010 Author Share Posted May 21, 2010 ty very much ! i guess that the rear is pretty much straight forward too ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mindspin311 Posted May 22, 2010 Share Posted May 22, 2010 Yea, you'll have to remove the y-pipe to get the bar out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecBGuy Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 Yea, you'll have to remove the y-pipe to get the bar out you dont really have too but may be easier and faster. i took it out through the driver side and put a heavier and bigger new sway through the same way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nemo Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 ^ same here. Took a little bit of finesse, but i didn't have to remove the y-pipe. i did drop my mufflers, though. If you don't vote Trump, out, you're a bigot who hates america. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mindspin311 Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 I tried to finesse it out, but I have having no luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skyguardian Posted May 24, 2010 Author Share Posted May 24, 2010 haha well guess i'll have to find if finesse works for me Since I will be pulling out the oem shocks and struts to replace them with biltsteins with swifts , can I pre-install something while i'm there or should I put the biltstein and then put the sways ? Yet another newbie question ... what king of grease did you use for the swaybar bushings ? I'm not a mechanic n00b but its my first mods on the leggy so I want to take all the precautions ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mindspin311 Posted May 24, 2010 Share Posted May 24, 2010 I used wheel bearing grease. The toughest stuff you can find, the better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecBGuy Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 didnt ur sways come with grease? i got extra from here: http://www.jegs.com/i/Prothane/311/19-1750/10002/-1 since i wiped out most of the grease that came with my sways. im installing my fronts tomrw since my raceramps came today, hopefully i wont have any problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skyguardian Posted May 25, 2010 Author Share Posted May 25, 2010 nope no grease with the Zero/Sports sway i'll try to find a good synthetic grease like yours I think ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mindspin311 Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 Seriously, wheel bearing grease. Toughest shizz out there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecBGuy Posted May 25, 2010 Share Posted May 25, 2010 ok installed my fronts in 2hrs going back and forth to get tool form the house. pic of sway compared to oem http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2934542&postcount=3 http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/4827/0525001214.th.jpg raceramps expensive but makes everything easier http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/2332/0525001326.th.jpg passengerside rallitek endlinks with whiteline sway http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/9976/0525001326a.th.jpg driverside rallitek endlinks with whiteline sways Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSiWRX Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 Sweet, another guy with two-piece RaceRamps! <-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges '16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wpmarky Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 For the rears, it makes it easier if you just unbolt one of the mufflers from the y-pipe. Removing them from the hanger isn't necessary, but the gap makes it easier to get the old one off, and the new one on. After that, just unbolt the mounts, unbolt the endlinks, remove the sway bar, and reverse it for the install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Windy Road Posted May 26, 2010 Share Posted May 26, 2010 I didn't bother to remove the front splash guard. All I did was remove that plate that has the 20 million bolts in it and slid the old bar out and slid the new bar in. 276hp/347tq On a DynoJet Dyno Video - Had a big lean spot as you can tell in the second pull Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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