Transmission issue

[thebigevilfoot]

Hey all, I just got my transmission fluid changed and for some reason ever since ( I think) my gears would slip when shifting from 3 to 4. If it give it some good gas through third it will attempt to shift at say 5000 or 5500 rpms and never engage and the rpms would fly up to 7000. Any ideas?

[mwiener2]

How many miles on the tranny and when was the last flush done?

[thebigevilfoot]

70000. I dont know because I got the car with 63000.

[mwiener2]

your symptoms are consistent with an auto tranny that has never had it's fluid changed till way too late. Coupled with stage 2 power levels, I'm not surprised it slips.

[thebigevilfoot]

Will it improve? Or am i screwed?

[mwiener2]

If that really is the case, yes. You can try another flush and see if that helps... but most likely the tranny needs a rebuild or replacement.

 

 

But I'm not 100% that's the problem

[spect2k]

Where did you have your fluid changed?

 

I don't know much about the 5eat, but at the dealership, they generally put a fairly generic fluid into the tranny. With the 5MT and 6MT, a lot of people have had much better results getting rid of the dealer fluid and putting in a better quality fluid. Again, I don't know if this also flies for the 5eat.

[thebigevilfoot]

My mechanic did it, but he does very good work, and I got tranny fluid straight out of the dealership. Aren't rebuilds like 1500? Plus if I do that I might as well get a valve body mod... damn :\

[fishbone]

Get the rebuild kit from IPT (clutches, bands, etc) if you are also getting the valve body work done. Sounds like there is no return for your clutchpacks. Did the dealer comment on the condition of the old fluid when it came out? Was it gritty? Did the ATF you got from the dealer come in silver bottles specifically saying it is for 5EAT trannies? I would also change the ATF filter if I were you, it's probably got quite a bit of debris in there if the clutchpacks ate themselves.

[thebigevilfoot]

I called ipt today, for them to do an entire rebuild it's gonna cost me 6200 after everything.

[fishbone]

You'll have a tranny able to handle around 500hp though, it is a high performance rebuild, not your average shop rebuild. Personally if it were me I would do what I just mentioned above at least for now. You'll be tearing the transmission apart anyways so it will be down for service for at least a day or two, why not take that chance and send IPT your valve body? It should tie you over at Stage 2 for a long time.

While you are at it, why not also get a transmission cooler such as the TruCool 4452 or 4454 and also look into a tranny bushing such as RalliteK's blue (street version). It'll hold the tranny better in place and help the shifts. This is also a good time for you to consider if you want to go with a synthetic fluid or stay with OEM. Drain once a year/20K miles or so and if you do go aftermarket, stick to Amsoil. It has been proven to work.

[JoeFromPA]

Sounds like money is an issue. Just my take, but for far less than that you could swap in a brand new transmission and an oil cooler. Or swap to a 5mt or heck even 6mt for about the same amount.

[thebigevilfoot]

I have a tranny cooler. It's not that money is an issue so much as I don't know if it's worth it. To get my tranny bullet proof'd I would pay like 3000ish, but 6000?!?!

 

And I would love to do a MT swap but I have no idea as to how to go about doing it/ getting someone to do it.

[jerseyglock]

I called ipt today, for them to do an entire rebuild it's gonna cost me 6200 after everything.

 

Welcome to the 5EAT club. Look on the bright side, your 5EAT will be able handle 400 plus torque if you have IPT rebuild it. They have new cluth pack designs !!!

[fishbone]

Why cut corners and possibly end up in this same situation a year or two down the road? Get the valve body mod from IPT, get the rebuild kit and have a local shop do the work.

/thread

 

LE: OR, get a refurbished transmission, swap it in and you'll have this donor to f- arund with.

[thebigevilfoot]

The rebuild kit is 1500 right? And the valve body is 750 ish? How much would the average shop charge for labor? If I get the rebuild kit from IPT would it be more reliable for higher power than subaru just rebuilding it?

[fishbone]

The rebuild kit is $830, the valve body will run you about $200 on top of the $770 if you figure shipping. You better package that thing WELL, you don't want solenoids to break during shipping or it means a whole new valve body since they are not sold separate. I wrapped mine in a big towel, then placed it in a box, then that box in a larger box full of packing peanuts.

Labor-wise it really depends, work with your local shop and see how much they want. My shop quoted me around $1200 just to do a tear-down.

[thebigevilfoot]

No shop would do it unless I buy parts through them... I am having 0 luck with this nonsense, I don't know what to do.

[thebigevilfoot]

Update

 

I drove my car tonight (when it's a little cooler temps) and it was doing considerable better with its shifts. Any ideas?

[fishbone]

Could be a number of things, not sure but keep us posted. Have you changed the ATF filter? I would. It's very easy to do, just remove the battery and you'll see it. Looks like an oil filter.

[thebigevilfoot]

I did not, I should give that a try.

 

Also, when I turn my car off, or when it's running I hear a sizzling sound under the car right near the tranny as if it's frying from the inside, I never heard it before, people have told me that's just from it getting warmer outside, and the transmission getting warm but it's a pretty violent clicking, not like the regular click every few seconds it's constant.

[thebigevilfoot]

My car is shifting much than it was a couple days ago I don't know why.

[mwiener2]

Did you ever check the fluid level?

[thebigevilfoot]

Yes, levels are fine.