Results from 68HTA EFI tune

[grimsleeper]

To the OP - how do you like the XLE BOV? The small portion of me that is ricer wants one but I'm leary of even the 50/50 ones.

 

the XLE does what it's supposed to do, especially with the fmic. No surging on the factory setting either, worked right out of the box.

 

You don't have to run it in 50/50, it works in all 3 modes. I use mine as a BPV with full recirc, but the plate can be taken off the back to make it 50/50 or full vta. It's definitely audible in full recirc with my setup, but in a pleasant way:)

[grimsleeper]

22psi is pushing it on pump gas IMHO...

 

21.5psi:lol: and yes I'm aware.

[Bolksey85]

Nice graph (like all 68's) and nice numbers as well. There's a guy near me with a very similar setup with his 68HTA and after a tune for 22psi on 93 pump the stock motor blew up in under a month. He wasn't easy on it, but it wasn't raced or abused either. The stock motor had 60K miles on it. After a new short block with forged internals and machined heads went in, it was retuned for 21psi and put down 315whp / 338lb-ft. I hope your motor lasts longer than his did!

Was that your boy with the Baja? Hahaha, I was just watching his dyno vid on 1320's website last night!

[Ridgeracer]

21 max on pump for me..

[Infamous1]

21 max on pump for me..

When you self tune and can keep up with logging, tweaking small adjustments here and there I would say high boost is fine. But when you don't have the capability to do these things is when it gets dangerous IMHO. Too many potential problems, climate changes, inconsistant fuels, boost leaks, or just normal wear and tear. So when tuning I try not to push the envelope.

[LittleBlueGT]

I can't see your intake having a problem at altitude.

[grimsleeper]

When you self tune and can keep up with logging, tweaking small adjustments here and there I would say high boost is fine. But when you don't have the capability to do these things is when it gets dangerous IMHO. Too many potential problems, climate changes, inconsistant fuels, boost leaks, or just normal wear and tear. So when tuning I try not to push the envelope.

 

Like I said, I'm aware and I keep a close eye on logs. Chris is less than 5 minutes from my house and if I thought anything was out of the ordinary he would be the first one I would discuss it with.

 

On the flip side, doing daily wot pulls for every possible condition on a 21-22psi tune 'to make sure evrything's ok' seems counter productive to me. Eventually you are going to end up causing the problems you're looking to prevent;)

[LittleBlueGT]

On the flip side' date=' doing daily wot pulls for every possible condition on a 21-22psi tune 'to make sure evrything's ok' seems counter productive to me. Eventually you are going to end up causing the problems you're looking to prevent;)[/quote']

 

Funny cause it is true.

[Infamous1]

Like I said, I'm aware and I keep a close eye on logs. Chris is less than 5 minutes from my house and if I thought anything was out of the ordinary he would be the first one I would discuss it with.

Neither of my post were directed at you, sorry for any confusion.

 

On the flip side, doing daily wot pulls for every possible condition on a 21-22psi tune 'to make sure evrything's ok' seems counter productive to me. Eventually you are going to end up causing the problems you're looking to prevent;)

I would have to disagree, since I beat on my cars far worst in day to day activities then any single gear logging. But that is just me, my car vistis redline daily

[jfg22557]

subscribed for info leading up to my own 68hta tune date up at EFI:).

 

but grimm, out of curiosity (and maybe you can chime in on this too LittleBlue) with the lower temps we see around here in the north east in the winter, I'm just slightly concerned as to weather or not you'll be seeing those MAF voltage tables go north of your current 4.55v.

 

Now I'm not positive what the ID of the cobb sf intake is but LittleBlue and I a while back had looked into the KsTech 73mm intakes for this exact reason. We both had typhoons at first but after his research proved to show that the smaller (68mm i believe? correct me if Im wrong) ID of the k&n would undoubtedly cause an over voltage and cut fueling in the colder temps, we opted for the then prototype 08 WRX 73mm CAI. which has now been fairly popularized through Itsme's racerx fmic thread(s).

 

Just some food for thought, although if Chris up at efi wasnt too concerned about it, then that kinda contradicts my research but hey, he is probably the best subie tuner on the east coast.

 

-Jake

 

p.s.: dammit grimm! I wanted to be the first 68hta + racerx fmic LGT up at EFI:p

[Legend]

^^ The seasonal variation I've seen on MAFv's is arount 0.06-0.1v. So, if grimm is 4.7x at 45F, he's never going to hit 4.9v and he's probably in the high 4.6's in summer. The Cobb SF intake looks to be probably good up to around 340whp on the EFI dyno (and still have a little margin up top). Looks like it easily covers the hta68 but would be pushing it for a 20G.

[grimsleeper]

subscribed for info leading up to my own 68hta tune date up at EFI:).

 

but grimm, out of curiosity (and maybe you can chime in on this too LittleBlue) with the lower temps we see around here in the north east in the winter, I'm just slightly concerned as to weather or not you'll be seeing those MAF voltage tables go north of your current 4.55v.

 

Now I'm not positive what the ID of the cobb sf intake is but LittleBlue and I a while back had looked into the KsTech 73mm intakes for this exact reason. We both had typhoons at first but after his research proved to show that the smaller (68mm i believe? correct me if Im wrong) ID of the k&n would undoubtedly cause an over voltage and cut fueling in the colder temps, we opted for the then prototype 08 WRX 73mm CAI. which has now been fairly popularized through Itsme's racerx fmic thread(s).

 

Just some food for thought, although if Chris up at efi wasnt too concerned about it, then that kinda contradicts my research but hey, he is probably the best subie tuner on the east coast.

 

-Jake

 

p.s.: dammit grimm! I wanted to be the first 68hta + racerx fmic LGT up at EFI:p

 

The K&N and COBB are two completely different intake designs. IIRC the K&N is 65-66mm all the way to the inlet, while the COBB has a ~64mm MAF housing going to a 76mm intake hose.

From the research I've done, and in looking at Little Blue's 68hta thread it seems like .25v (my max is 4.75v) is a decent amount of headroom for my current setup considering those numbers were taken from a 45° day.

 

When's your tune date? It'll be great to have another LGT on the same dyno to bounce graphs against, especially since we have slightly different setups with the same turbo. Looking forward to the results!

[LittleBlueGT]

I think the K&N intake would be fine on a 68HTA................. at 5500 feet!

[yamie700]

I run the K&N with my 18g at 22psi, I'm at 900ft elevation latest log was IAT 61, hit 4.78v. Back in Dec. I logged at IAT 28 and hit 4.82v. At 5v I have it scaled to 330g/s, not sure how accurate that is though as I've only ever hit about 300g/s.

 

I know itsme runs the typhoon with his 20g on a pretty maxed out setup. Not sure what his highest volts are though.

[Ridgeracer]

Plenty of headroom on an AVO intake with the 68HTA even in the winter.

[Infamous1]

 

I know itsme runs the typhoon with his 20g on a pretty maxed out setup. Not sure what his highest volts are though.

I tuned his setup....Even on another 68hta at 20psi at redline and 55 degree weather on the typhoon at sea level I seen a max of 4.8ish volts.

[yamie700]

I tuned his setup....Even on another 68hta at 20psi at redline and 55 degree weather on the typhoon at sea level I seen a max of 4.8ish volts.

 

What g/s are those setups pushing?

[Infamous1]

In 310-320 g/s range.

[LittleBlueGT]

In 310-320 g/s range.

 

Sounds right. I had my K&N scaled at 316 g/s at 4.8 volts.

[grimsleeper]

Well if anyone is interested this illustrates exactly what I was referring to earlier in the thread regarding the difference in power curves with the 68HTA. No translation between different gearsets, mods etc. The first tune was done on a 40° day, yesterday's was about 75°.

Note that even though the new graph is listed as a fixed boost leak (there was a sneaky uppipe leak in the original tune), it is not the sole reason for the change in curves. Obviously the tune has a lot to do with the shift in the power band, but I found it interesting to see two examples of what the turbo is capable of with the same setup and on the same dyno.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=605&pictureid=3203

 

I'm very happy with the additional low/midrange power. The tradeoff after 6k is well worth it for mostly street driving imo, and I'm hitting peak boost about 300rpm sooner.

 

I'll also add that Chris and Rob were very cool about working with me after the original tune in troubleshooting a few issues that popped up due to my angry gorilla style turbo install. I still owe them a few beers.

Chris also gets props for handling my sometimes delusional paranoia like a true pro.

 

Really can't say enough good things about these guys and I feel pretty damn fortunate to have them right down the road from my house.

And this is coming from a guy who has refused to go to a mechanic for anything other than tire mounting in the last 10 years. It's a strange feeling to actually trust the entire crew in a shop.

[Ridgeracer]

You must of had a pretty bad leak to pick up that much power considering you did it in warmer temps. Thats about right compared to my 68HTA as well. Are you able to do datalogs with Romraider?

[grimsleeper]

You must of had a pretty bad leak to pick up that much power considering you did it in warmer temps. Thats about right compared to my 68HTA as well. Are you able to do datalogs with Romraider?

 

The thing is it really wasn't, not to the point of being audible anyway. There was a 1" area of soot around one of the turbo flange nuts which was pretty much a dead giveaway though.

The second possible boost leak during the original tune may have been from the #3 injector. There was no leaking fuel but the retaining bracket was in a bit of a funky position which allowed the injector to pop up about .25mm. Once I fixed it I did notice a gain in peak boost, so I suspect it was only leaking pressure at higher (~20 psi) boost levels.

 

What we both found strange though was that he had to use slightly higher WGDC during the second tune to achieve the same whp. With the leaks present during the original tune one would think that he would be able to run lower wastegate due to overcompensating the first time, but for some reason that was not the case. Food for thought..

 

Yes I am logging w/ RR.

[Ridgeracer]

Well considering the first tune was done at 40 degs vs. the second tune at 75 degs that makes perfect sense. I would probably adjust the WGDC temp comp table to fix this. The warmer temps require higher WGDC since the air is less dense.

 

Could you run a 3rd gear log and put in though Airboy's spreadsheet?

[grimsleeper]

I'd do a dyno plot if I could get it to work in OpenOffice. Macros don't function at all even with security disabled and I don't have Excel installed.

[Ridgeracer]

Just post up the .csv file