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Rear disc removal?


JohnSellers

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New user here - with a couple of Subies; I drive a 2002 Impreza Outback Sport, and my wife drives a 2003 Outback LLB.

 

I have not done much work myself on the 2003 Outback - have done more on the Sport wagon, but fewer miles on the Outback. I decided to tackle the brake replacement last weekend on my wife's car - bought Centric rotors and pads for both ends.

 

My work went fine until I got to the rear wheels, and found both mounting bolts for the caliper support shaded by the hub housing (knuckle). It might be possible to get to the lower bolt head with an offset box wrench. (if you have the EXACT amount of offset...) In fact, that's what ONLY picture in the FSM shows - an offset wrench on the lower bolt, while the text says "remove both bolts".

 

I don't see any way to get a wrench on the upper bolt. It's shaded completely by the upper lateral link pivot casting. I couldn't remove the disc without unbolting the caliper support. To remove the support looks like it would require complete disassembly of the knuckle from the suspension.

 

How do you get the rear discs off? Any hints?

 

Thanks,

John

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u can get the bolt with a box wrench. :).

 

No, you can't get any kind of wrench on the upper bolt - there is no clearance at all. An offset box end wrench will go on the lower bolt, but I defy anybody to get to the upper one without removing the lateral link arm.

 

Tell me again how I can get a wrench on the upper bolt for the caliper support bracket?

 

Thanks,

John

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I had a '00 Outback and worked on the brakes many times. For the rear, I vaguely remember having to use a long extension on a 1/2" ratchet and feed the extension/socket through an access hole to the bolt. Basically the ratchet extension was essentially parallel to the CV shaft and went straight in to connect to the caliper bolt.

Hope that helps!

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I had a '00 Outback and worked on the brakes many times. For the rear, I vaguely remember having to use a long extension on a 1/2" ratchet and feed the extension/socket through an access hole to the bolt. Basically the ratchet extension was essentially parallel to the CV shaft and went straight in to connect to the caliper bolt.

Hope that helps!

 

That is how my 05LGT is, just did it.. its not easy to see, might need to crawl under and figure it out.

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Okay guys - I appreciate the responses.

 

I'm still skeptical - but I will admit my perspective was what I could see from the wheelwell; car was only high enough to get wheels off the ground, and jack stands weren't high enough for me to get under the car and inspect for an access hole that you've described from an inside-out viewpoint.

 

My recollection is that the pivot for the upper lateral link arm is right in front of the bolt head for the caliper support. And there is only a half inch of clearance between this casting and the bolt head. Clearance to the side of the bolt head is even more limited, because of the curved-flanged nature of the hub housing piece. It was all I could do to put the trouble light in there to illuminate and see the bolt head - it took me the better part of 2-3 minutes to even find this upper mounting bolt.

 

Before your mention of an "access hole", I would have bet money that there is no way to get a wrench on this bolt head. However, I will admit that my vehemence in saying there is "no way" must be balanced by the absurdity of a design where Subaru would not allow access to the fastener.

 

I'll chalk this up to my limited experience as a driveway mechanic. And, I still have to jack the car up again and finish the job.

 

Best regards,

John

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I just did this on sunday. I used a long 14mm socket with and extension and ratchet to reach through the opening. Ratchet handle end up swinging arount he rear sway bar mount. The lower bolt has a similar pass hole.

 

I can take some pics but not till Wed night.

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You MUST use a short socket a a long extension. YES there is an access hole but the socket won't fit through. I put the socket on the bolt then the extension in the socket. And like rubberman said, you'll be parallel to the axle (approximately). Honestly I use a 3/8 drive impact for this, no awkward forcing.

 

What's there to be skeptical about? That you might have a custom made subaru that needs the knuckle removed to change the brakes? Seriously, get a light under there, or feel around, there's easy access, you just have to know it's there.... which you do.

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^^^ditto.

 

Once you do, make sure you have some anti seize handy for when you have to do it again.

 

 

Yep, or since you already have synthetic caliper lube, while you're doing the breaks, you can put a drop o nthe threads. My buddy (mechanic) would crucify me for saying that, cause it's not recommended, in case a bolt loosens up, but I do it anyway. He'd tell you to clean the bolt and the receiving threads with break cleaner instead.

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