JoeFromPA Posted October 16, 2011 Share Posted October 16, 2011 One hour since my last note and got done installing the front new centric rotor after cleaning it up, bracket reinserted, caliper slide pins clean and greased, new front stoptech pads installed and greased...(just pass side) and pulling the rear wheel, retracting the caliper, taking off the old rear pads, putting on new centric pads, greasing em up, reinstalling the caliper, wheel back on, lug nuts spun on front and rear, and torqued down to 85 lb/ft on the ground. Without issues, this is a lot more fun. Now I just need to go get a new radiator bolt and do the driver's side Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRS Posted October 16, 2011 Share Posted October 16, 2011 To prevent the same situation in the future use a thin film of anti-seize between the hub face and the back of the rotor... Anti-Seize For Automotive Brake Rotor/Hub Assemblies Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted October 16, 2011 Share Posted October 16, 2011 I just put a thin film of brake grease since it was at hand but yeah. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bermo Posted October 16, 2011 Share Posted October 16, 2011 Reviving this thread. It's 11:30 and i've spent almost an hour on the pass. side front rotor. I stopped using the radiator hold down bolts when I put the first one in and before it had even made it to the hub the threads had stripped off the bottom! It was threading in fine, so I'm not sure if I cross-threaded it or what, but now I have a loose radiator till I replace that bolt. After reading the links, I'm blown this is actually that much of a BFD....I can see how some people would spend eons working on this with a hammer. ...for those interested, this is a 3.5 year old legacy with 68k miles on it. It's got 3 winters on it, and this rotor at least is ridiculous. I also had to use a small floor jack on my 17mm caliper bracket bolts to get them to break loose - that's after soaking in PB blaster and slamming the rachet with a hammer. It looks like you got it solved. Just wondering, before screwing in the 'pusher' M8x1.25 bolts, are you cleaning the threads with a tap? It might help stuff move. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRA_35 Posted October 16, 2011 Share Posted October 16, 2011 Another trick that's worked for me everytime, is scoring the seam between the hub and rotor with a screwdriver, then use a wire brush and knock as much of the surface rust off as possible. Then, instead of pb blaster, I use brake fluid.... Let it set for 5 or so minutes and use the air hammer on the flat sections (or BFH), but I try to use the air hammer because I like to try and save my hub bearings, the BFH is the last resort for me- the air hammer is repetitious vibration versus brute one strike force..... Just my 2cents Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 I could be wrong, but I figure the bearings take far more abuse from my throwing the car sideways at 50mph and getting 3500 pounds to shift into overwhelming something that's 12" from the bearing axis (the tire patch). IDK, if you can shatter the rotor altogether and not experience any bearing problems, I don't think some taps with a BFH that DON"T break the rotor are going to do anything. ... So for those who come across this thread in the future: I had soaked my pass side rotor in PB Blaster for a few hours. I pried at the back of the rotor with a pry bar against the hub, I slammed it with various 1-3 pound hammers. I spent quite some time on it and it wasn't budging. But then i grab a 12 pound sledge and let it swing approx 30 degrees worth of travel (with no force behind it from me) and hit the flat surface of the outer rotor. 1-2-3 times. Bam, it's loose. Now, maybe I loosened it, right? I don't think so. Here's why. The next day I go to the driver's side. I hit it with PB blaster when I get the wheel off. Then i remove the caliper and bracket, try to remove the rotor by hand/with strong prying for about 2 minutes (nothing), then hit it with the 12 pound sledge using just the force of the sledge swinging inwards from about a 30 degree arc. Bam, rotor popped right away. Now, again, this is a 3.5 year old car in PA winters with 70k miles on it. So maybe they're not as stuck as some. But for me, up to a 3 pound hammer was not doing the job....I just needed to go bigger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 Wow, sorry to hear you guy's have such a hard time. I know I've posted here about spraying the screw holes with PB Blaster and putting anti-sieze on the 8mm bolts. Walk them in slowly and the rotor should come off. May be run the bolt's in/out once or twice. You may have to back off the parking brake nut on the lever too. Just pull up the fake leather boot thing. If you need to back the shoes off, the worst part is trying to put the rubber plug back in. Remember the shoe back off in oppsite directions. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RWebb Posted August 28, 2018 Share Posted August 28, 2018 http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/2906/grbanghead.gif Of course it would be better to get your hands on some M8 x 1.25 Grade 10.9 bolts and use those. However, if you don't realize that there are TWO threaded holes and that you should be applying pressure to EACH hole in an EVEN manner to pull the rotor off then you really shouldn't be working on your brakes. If you feel the need to bust out a breaker bar to lean on the M8 bolt because the rotor is frozen then you rally shouldn't be working on your brakes. http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/2906/grbanghead.gif I miss rao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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