darkside Posted June 14, 2011 Author Share Posted June 14, 2011 I got mine sitting at home but not installed yet maybe in a month, funds are on holding back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danny boy Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 From those that did the installation themselves, any tips/advice/walkthrough? How long did it take? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
integroid Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 Took about 15 minutes but I had the motor out:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danny boy Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 Took about 15 minutes but I had the motor out:)Â Pretty sure I'll be leaving my motor in for now:) So: TMIC comes out; pipe across the fire wall is in the way -what is that?; disconnect hard lines from old MC; disconnect vacuum line, disconnect brake pedal remove old booster, implant check valve in vacuum line (properly oriented), install new booster, attach brake pedal attach vacuum and hard lines, bleed. replace TMIC Is it that about how it should go? What's missing? Predictable trouble spots? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboym Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 i'm doing this swap on my 08 wrx which may relate with you newer gens. i have a detailed thread about it here (http://www.3gwrx.com/forum/index.php/topic,20410). someone referred me to this thread and the potential for problems. i have specific bore diameter information for the different MYs, more photos, and lastly noticed that my car appears to have a check valve already installed in the hose so you may want to double check before shoving on in there. hope it helps. i'll be sure to post up information in my thread for reference and process for the unfamiliar.  thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shtbxr22 Posted July 12, 2011 Share Posted July 12, 2011 While changing the oil on a 2006 outback sport I noticed 1 1/16 cast into the master cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjwelna Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 Picked up a booster/MBC from an '05 sti, now I just need to get the booster line with the check valve so I can install it. This is going on an '08 LGT for anyone reading. Will post back once it's on with issues/impressions/results. -Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Power6 Posted July 21, 2011 Share Posted July 21, 2011 Picked up a booster/MBC from an '05 sti, now I just need to get the booster line with the check valve so I can install it. This is going on an '08 LGT for anyone reading. Will post back once it's on with issues/impressions/results. -Steve Just a heads up, you are going to have your work cut out for you swapping this on a VDC car. I have been following Monkiboy and gave him the heads up about this thread. What we did not know at the time, is that all the VDC cars have bigger brake line with larger fittings to the MC (12x1mm vs 10x1 thread). Everyone who has done the swap in this thread appears to have an earlier Legacy pre-VDC which has the smaller fittings to match the STI MC, so it bolted right on. On a VDC car, you will need to cut off the ends of your lines going to the MC, slip on a 10x1 threaded fitting, and re-flare with a double flare tool. Monkiboy tried adapters but they add too much length to the line coming out the side of the MC to clear the strut tower. If you check the link to 3gwrx above, you can follow Monkiboy's progress as he works out the issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DosRenshos Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 One week in on my swap and i am very pleased. Pedal travel is much better. Response is soooo much better, and feels much more accurate. I like that i can feel the pad takeup and that it takes just a brush with my toe to get the pads to the rotor instead of the 6ft it felt like before.  Install went great. If i didn't have a 5yr old wanting my attention every 2 minutes i would say that i could have had the job done in 2 hours max. The only difficult part was pulling the old booster out (it didn't want to pop past the the plumbing).  Some thing to think about: -the silver line that's in the way is an aluminum A/C line so try not to bend it to much or you will have refrigerant leaking out. -when you get ready to pull the old MC and booster, i found it easier to unbolt and separate them from each other. BUT, to get them separated easily, step on the pedal to remove any residual booster vacuum. The legacy booster vacuum is open to the back of the MC so they will be stuck together (there is an o-ring seal between the two while your new booster is a separate sealed unit from the MC). I also separated the MC from the booster going in. -when both boosters are out, measure the distance of the clevis/pedal pin hole to the back of the Legacy booster and duplicate that on the new booster. This saves you from having to adjust the pedal travel and spacing in the car. -the new WRX MC is of course bigger in OD by about .5 inches and sits flatter against the firewall. This means that it is VERY close or actually touching the brake lines that run up the back. Protect these from rubbing thru. -Spend the $60 and get a pressure bleeder. I'm kicking myself for not buying one earlier. It took longer to jack up the car than it did to bleed the system. I'll add more if i can think of anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboym Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 Just a heads up, you are going to have your work cut out for you swapping this on a VDC car. I have been following Monkiboy and gave him the heads up about this thread. What we did not know at the time, is that all the VDC cars have bigger brake line with larger fittings to the MC (12x1mm vs 10x1 thread). Everyone who has done the swap in this thread appears to have an earlier Legacy pre-VDC which has the smaller fittings to match the STI MC, so it bolted right on. On a VDC car, you will need to cut off the ends of your lines going to the MC, slip on a 10x1 threaded fitting, and re-flare with a double flare tool. Monkiboy tried adapters but they add too much length to the line coming out the side of the MC to clear the strut tower. If you check the link to 3gwrx above, you can follow Monkiboy's progress as he works out the issues. this is a very important post for those affected. thanks power6! i'll make sure to keep my progress up to date but you nailed my status down. waiting on a union fitting and am going to cut the line down a bit and then use a union and two male tube nuts to run new line where the old kinked to make sure i bend it (with tube bender pliers for tight radius turns) to the port safely and without kinks and i should be good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjwelna Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 Just a heads up, you are going to have your work cut out for you swapping this on a VDC car. I have been following Monkiboy and gave him the heads up about this thread. What we did not know at the time, is that all the VDC cars have bigger brake line with larger fittings to the MC (12x1mm vs 10x1 thread). Everyone who has done the swap in this thread appears to have an earlier Legacy pre-VDC which has the smaller fittings to match the STI MC, so it bolted right on. On a VDC car, you will need to cut off the ends of your lines going to the MC, slip on a 10x1 threaded fitting, and re-flare with a double flare tool. Monkiboy tried adapters but they add too much length to the line coming out the side of the MC to clear the strut tower. If you check the link to 3gwrx above, you can follow Monkiboy's progress as he works out the issues. Well doesn't that just throw a wrench into my plans! Thanks for the heads up before I pulled it all apart, I may have to rethink this. Is the strut tower clearance on the LGT's the same as the WRX's?  -Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjwelna Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 So, just to add to the thread, my car, MY08 LGT has 10mm flare nuts on the ends of the hard lines on the brake master cylinder, NOT 12mm. I don't see any reason why they won't screw right into the MY05 sti master cylinder I have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Power6 Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 So, just to add to the thread, my car, MY08 LGT has 10mm flare nuts on the ends of the hard lines on the brake master cylinder, NOT 12mm. I don't see any reason why they won't screw right into the MY05 sti master cylinder I have. Well we are talking about the thread not the hex size ;-) But the key here is...do you have VDC or not? I looked at cars101 real quick, I didn't realize only some LGTs got VDC in the later years, and it looks like the 5MT didn't at all in 08 and only mid year did all 5EATS get it. Will a small exception all Imprezas have VDC so I assumed the LGT would be better equipped in 08-09, though you have that rear LSD. If your LGT does not have VDC you will be good to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjwelna Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 Well we are talking about the thread not the hex size ;-) But the key here is...do you have VDC or not? I looked at cars101 real quick, I didn't realize only some LGTs got VDC in the later years, and it looks like the 5MT didn't at all in 08 and only mid year did all 5EATS get it. Will a small exception all Imprezas have VDC so I assumed the LGT would be better equipped in 08-09, though you have that rear LSD. If your LGT does not have VDC you will be good to go. Yeah I know you didn't mean the actual nut size. That being said in the pictures on monkeyboi's thread you can see that the m12x1.0 thread has a larger nut than the m10x1.0.... http://i687.photobucket.com/albums/vv233/monkiboy/WP_001154-1.jpg ...I'll bet money that the m12 has an actual 12mm nut on the end of the sliding flare fitting. The diameter of the threads on my car are the same diameter as the MBC from the STI so I should be good to go! Now I just need to order my booster hose from the local stealership so I can get the checkvalve put in.  EDIT: Mine is a '08 5mt so I guess I got lucky with no VDC. -Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shtbxr22 Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 08 spec b here. VDC ftl!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Power6 Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 ...I'll bet money that the m12 has an actual 12mm nut on the end of the sliding flare fitting.  I see what you are saying from the pic there, the hex is pretty much the size of the fitting, so 10mm matches the threading size. Looks like you are good to go. Just us VDC people with no easy options... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboym Posted July 24, 2011 Share Posted July 24, 2011 don't forget to double check your existing line for a check valve. my 08 wrx already had one determined by the bulge and taper seen in the vacuum line located in the typical sti valve location. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mortal2None Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 I was going to do it this weekend when installing my Brembo's but the rear stainless brake line install ate up all of my time. What a PITA! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboym Posted August 7, 2011 Share Posted August 7, 2011 swap completed, reference link above to my thread if applicable to your situation and/or interested. thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yebokmj Posted November 2, 2011 Share Posted November 2, 2011 I don't know if this will help others but I installed my check valve today and taking a Bic pen apart and just using the body of it to push it the check valve into the hose worked really well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyscoodle Posted November 12, 2011 Share Posted November 12, 2011 So I've got a '06 sti MC/booster and the sti vac line with check valve ready to go in. Once it's all swapped out do you simply bleed the lines through the caliper bleeders as usual or is there any special procedure for bleeding the MC? Are there any concerns with air getting trapped in the ABS module? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DosRenshos Posted November 12, 2011 Share Posted November 12, 2011 I prebled the MC on the bench (covered the holes with plastic stoppers and let the fluid squeeze around them) so there were no major air pockets and then bled as normal with the caliper valves once it was in the car. Had no issues but I used a power bleeder and lots of fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkiboym Posted November 12, 2011 Share Posted November 12, 2011 I prebled the MC on the bench (covered the holes with plastic stoppers and let the fluid squeeze around them) so there were no major air pockets and then bled as normal with the caliper valves once it was in the car. Had no issues but I used a power bleeder and lots of fluid. +1, you'll want to bench bleed the MC first. more detail and/or instructions are in your FSM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyscoodle Posted November 12, 2011 Share Posted November 12, 2011 Thanks guys, I have the Motive PB and have used it before should be pretty simple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swine Posted November 21, 2011 Share Posted November 21, 2011 Good to know on the bench bleed, glad i read this before i started Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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