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What aftermarket air intake will fit the 2.2L engine?


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i want an aftermarket air intake. but i can't find any sites that offer one for the 2.2L?? can anyone post a link for me that would be great. I want a Ram intake set up. No cold air intakes where i'm going to suck water up in the damn thing. prefer a Ram intake with cone filter and heatshield.

 

if not i'm thinking on measuring and buying some metal air intake tubing from schucks. a K&N Cone filter. and either buying and making a heatshield and wrapping it some kind of heat resistant tape or foil.

 

A hood scoop air intake set up would really be sick then i get cold air and more *sinking room* :cool: . the damn stock box is way too constrictive. I unbolted the box flipped it upside down rebolted it up without the top half and duct taped a K&N box filter to it (LoLz) and serously i get so much more power...feels like i freed up 10hp if i give it full throttle at a low rpm it hits sooo much harder and not to mention sounds way sicker. so let me know. post a link.

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They're usually never a good idea. Subaru designs a hell of an intake actually. It's hard to justify ripping it off to replace it with a dust magnet that sucks in hot air the whole time. If you're planning on going offroad it wont matter if you have a short ram or not cause water will get to that thing with a big enough puddle. I would just stick with the stock and keep that drop in K&N if anything...but then again if your dreams are to make a car with 130hp accelerate fast I would give up on that now. Just go fast offroad. My friends and I have no real problem going upwards of 60 through the trails in these cars. They're incredible. But if you plan on doing this find abandoned trails like we did and make sure you keep tools with you :)
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yes i know a ram intake will still get sunk. the 1st gens intake is sucked from below the bumper on the legacies so unless you only drive half your subaru through the pit then your always sinking it. The Injen air intake kit from http://www.boxer4racing.com/motor.htm#Motor Intake

is actually sick. it's a cold air system but the filter is actually located where the stock box sucks from. check it out . its sick. but expensive. I might make my own in that case.

Also, i have the phase 2 EJ22 engine. here's the difference.

 

EJ221 Naturally Aspirated (phase 1)

 

  • Horsepower: 133 bhp (99 kW; 135 ps) @ 5800 rpm
  • Torque: 137 lb.ft (186.3 N·m) @ 4800 rpm

EJ222 Naturally Aspirated (phase 2)

 

  • Horsepower: 142 bhp (106 kW; 144 PS) @ 5600 rpm
  • Torque: 149 lb·ft (202 N·m) @ 3600 rpm

+10bhp

+12 lb.ft @ 1,000 less Rpm's

To get exact

 

 

all i usually hit is trails with my buddies and wide open dirt pits to rally around, but always where nobody is. I'm not trying to kill anyone! with my whole extra 10 horsepower!!!!! lol!! 60 through the trails all day everyday! ya baby!

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It's nice, but crap that's expensive. How can you tell if you have the

phase 1 or phase 2?

 

Just a horror story, I was going through the woods with a few friends of mine

and I was leading doing about 65 around this corner. I took the inside and there was a small bump that you couldn't see in the shadows and it was enough to shift the weight to the front left side and it sent me sliding off the road into a huge bed of water (we have marshes and swampland here). It was probably about 2 or 3 feet deep and I hit it sideways after some maneuvering. Water came up through my hood to the top of the windshield...big splash. Well anyway I have no armor underneath and I actually in one swift motion went from sideways to driving straight out of the water like it was nothing. Once I got out I dried all of the connections and it ran perfectly :) I'm pretty comfortable with the stock intake now :p Subaru's are built freakin awesome! I'm more worried about the fact that the filter is exposed whereas it's not exposed to water quite so much with the stock airbox

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Get the $20 MAF adapter from Boxer4Racing (Link is above) and buy a 3" cone filter from Autozone. This setup will put the filter right about where the old box was, only a little closer to the engine. I ran this setup the entire time I had my Legacy with no issues. Occasionally some water would get the filter wet and it would miss for about 1/4 mile of driving, but unless you hit the car wash you shouldn't worry about it. The car sounds really cool too.

 

I too have a horror story... I was mudding in my diesel one time and went through a massive mud puddle where water climbed up over the hood. The truck started to gargle but stayed running. This truck was a 1990 Dodge 1-ton with big BF Goodrich A/T's (Great tire BTW), so it sat pretty high. After the truck emerged from the water I let it sit for a few minutes just revving the engine and it was still gargling and missing. I thought I was going to have to tear the truck apart and fix some stuff, but after one good jolt of the throttle and the biggest puff of black smoke I've ever seen from a 12V Cummins diesel with a stock fuel pump, it ran just fine. Smooth as a kitten. About 10 minutes later is when it got stuck in about 3' of clay and had to be left. It was later burned to a crisp by punks in the time it took me to find something big enough to pull it out. :(

 

And I'd stick with the Phase 1 over the Phase II anyday, just because the Phase II is a non-interference design... Meaning the valves won't hit the piston should the timing belt break. The redesigned pistons on the Phase II along with the steeper valve angle in the heads eliminates the clearance between the valves and the piston at TDC. The main reason for the performance advantage is the compression ratio increase and the swap from hydraulic lash adjusters to mechanical lash adjusters which should be checked and adjusted every 100K miles or so. They both last just as long providing you replace the timing belt when you should, and the Phase II does perform better so it's pretty much down to personal preference. The extra low end grunt would be nice on mine, but I'm not sure it outweighs the comfort of knowing I can run my belt forever with no consequences. My personal preference would be the EJ22G with 275 HP and 268 ft/lbs. If I could get my hands on one of those.... WHOO!!! Let me tell ya! :lol:

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h hell ya i want to do a WRX swap when i get the money. and yes the timing belt breaking scares me, luckily I can replace those timing belts all day long so i'll just change it every 60,000 miles or less probably like 50,000 miles to be safe since it's such an easy job. Interference sucks but i can handle it. plus the extra power is noticeable and helps. I raced one of my buddies that has a stock legacy wagon and i smoked him on my buddies dirt track, then again i can shift waaay better than him. he's a good grinder lol!

 

as for the intake. ya i'm not spending $300 in the end for that air intake. I'd rather buy a snorkeler set up! I'm defiantly taking your route platinum..... the $20 adapter is a big help in my decision.

The stock air intake set up isn't too bad....i shouldn't down on subaru for that.(there's worse issues....like bad 2.5l head gaskets!) I have some good sink'em stories with the stock box. you can literally sink the whole engine at full throttle for about 5 seconds give or take before the car will bog out. so you can smash through some deeeep puddles/pits if you go fast. I'm really more about good sideway drifts in dirt pits or sliding around in the snow. I love hearing good subi stories though!

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The snorkel kit isn't a bad idea either... It would probably look nasty (in a good way) when it's all done. I'd suggest cutting the fender so it goes out through there instead of the hood, that way you can still open the hood normally.

 

And my horror story wasn't about my Subaru, it was about my 1990 Dodge W350 4WD Cummins Turbo Diesel w/ a Getrag 5 speeed tranny on big BFG A/T tires. Thing was nasty.

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