carguyco Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Just wondering what to expect from Stage 1 and deciding if that is what I should do since I'm not quite ready for stage 2....I know I know, skip 1 go straight to 2...but what if I don't? Will I have more low end boost or still long spool times? Better MPG? More torque? Driveability? I read on here that I would have a more driveable car..just looking for confirmation b4 I spend 300 bucks.... Thanks in advance.. Or you can seriously tell me to just go stage 2....but I'm interested in folks who only went stage 1 I have 38k on my car, have owned it less than a month...and I'm already itching for more ooomph. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgtgirl06 Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 I went stage 1 before I went stage 2. The car had a little less lag and a bit faster turbo spool. It was fun but couldn't stop there. I'm sure you won't either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TravisS Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 The cost / return for stage 1 is very low. You have to buy an Access Port regardless of stage (not strictly true... but is easiest route) which has the potential to be the single most expensive part. As an '07, all you need to get is a downpipe to go stage 2, which adds only a bit extra to the total cost for noticeably more gains. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carguyco Posted February 23, 2010 Author Share Posted February 23, 2010 How do the tunes affect the SI drive? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainhook Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 The SI-Drive will function the exact same way regardless of the tune on the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carguyco Posted February 23, 2010 Author Share Posted February 23, 2010 Thanks hook..I presumed so.... I know it makes way more sense to go with stage 2 right off the bat....I play to go opensource w/ infamous so no need for AP... I'm just eager to get more out of my car....and winter is slow for car sales so no extra cash laying around and I don't use CC for this type of thing....ever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobydoobie Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Alot of people have went stage 1 before stage 2... It's a noticeable improvement, just not as much as stage 2 is. Just get the Infamous tune, you will love it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exsterminator Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 As an '07, all you need to get is a downpipe to go stage 2, which adds only a bit extra to the total cost for noticeably more gains. I have an 09 OBXT - what would I need to go straight to stage 2? Would this mod plus a stage 2 flash void any warranty??? Ballpark cost for a downpipe? And what else ought you to consider doing to the car - sways, shocks etc - along with stage 2 to get the most out of the car? Ballpark cost for this? I know, lots of questions, but when you know next to nothing about something, asking questions helps you to learn . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-WDC Spec B Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 I have an 09 OBXT - what would I need to go straight to stage 2? Would this mod plus a stage 2 flash void any warranty??? Ballpark cost for a downpipe? FREE!!! gut your first cat and if you want your second cat and your good then contact infamous. (this is the cheep way) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carguyco Posted February 23, 2010 Author Share Posted February 23, 2010 Can the same be done on an 07? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-WDC Spec B Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Are you asking me? If you are yes. I have another stock dp that and im gutting the first cat. im going to run a cobb stage 2 ots until the weather gets better and then im going to go infamous. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exsterminator Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 FREE!!! gut your first cat and if you want your second cat and your good then contact infamous. (this is the cheep way) Instead of gutting the cat which I am sure would lead to emmissions testing failure, would you use a high flow cat? Would you see the same performance results? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-WDC Spec B Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Instead of gutting the cat which I am sure would lead to emmissions testing failure, would you use a high flow cat? Would you see the same performance results? that would be about $300-500 depning on used/new and brand. edit: exsterminator im not trying to be sarcastic im just answering the guys pricing question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exsterminator Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 that would be about $300-500 depning on used/new and brand. edit: exsterminator im not trying to be sarcastic im just answering the guys pricing question. didn't notice any sarcasm, appreciating your responses. would you recommend gutting both cats if I go cat-gutting route? or is only one needed to be gutted? would i pass an emissions test with one fully functional cat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-WDC Spec B Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 gut both for more power. but 1 if you want to pass and hate the smell. I dont know about your area but jersey only does obdii test for modern cars and several people passes emissions catless. ask others from your area. I know fisbone told me he gutted the first and then tuned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exsterminator Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 gut both for more power. but 1 if you want to pass and hate the smell. I dont know about your area but jersey only does obdii test for modern cars and several people passes emissions catless. ask others from your area. I know fisbone told me he gutted the first and then tuned. thanks again for the reply. so in summary - for me to be ready for a stage 2 tune, all I need to do is gut one or both cats? nothing else needed to run a stage 2 tune safely? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-WDC Spec B Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 Stage 2: There is much contorversy about what calssifies stage 2. I have been on these boards now for 2 years and I have seen many many different takes... This is what the majority of members will agree with me on. Stage 2 at a minumum: Cattless stock down pipe/after market down pipe. the key to stage 2 is either the stock catylatic converter is removed from the down pipe or a high flow or catless down pipe is added. You will also need to use COBB/TDC/PDX stage 2 map. WHY???? because you will need to eliminate your EGT (Electronic Gas Temperature) which monitors your exahuast temps. The Cobb/TDC/PDX maps will do this for you. Stage 2 can also consist of: Catless up pipe, top mount intercooler, Dyno tune, ProTune, Under drive pulleys Cat back exhaust, Intake and certain turbo upgrades. REMEMBER, its not nessacarily the mods that make you a stage, it's the amount of mods and the correct combination. Wheel Horse power ratings usually range from 240 - 260 depending on your tune. COST This really depends on what parts you buy... It can range from $400 - $2000 $400 = used access port and decatting your own stock DP. $2000+ if you buy all the parts listed Stage 2.5: Some members may disagree with me on this... but this is an in between point of stg 2 and 3. For stage 2.5 you need(at a minimum): Up pipe, Down Pipe, Top mount intercooler, COBB AP, DYNO or protune. Basically at this point you have maxed the potential of your stock turbo and Injectors (19.5 lbs of boost is the highest safe range with our turbos and injectors) this stage can also include Under drive pully, cat back exhaust, Intake. Wheel Horse Power ratings usuall go from 245-290 (max) with these mods, depending on your tune. At a minumum your gonna spend $2000+ for new parts. Again.. you can find all this stuff used for much cheaper. taken from this thread which you probably read. Post # 6 Topic 10 http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67940 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exsterminator Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 F-WDC, you da man. Thanks for the link, am researching now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exsterminator Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 Oh, and just to clarify (the obvious, I'm sure, but want to be 100%): I need to gut the first BEFORE I datalog and send them to Infamous . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTTuner Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 Go straight to stage 2. Better MPG if you keep your foot out of it, midrange torque is the silver lining for stage 2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-WDC Spec B Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 Oh, and just to clarify (the obvious, I'm sure, but want to be 100%): I need to gut the first BEFORE I datalog and send them to Infamous . . . Yes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captainhook Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 would you recommend gutting both cats if I go cat-gutting route? or is only one needed to be gutted? would i pass an emissions test with one fully functional cat? Gutting both as opposed to just the first will only gain you a few whp and the exhaust will be significantly louder and smell way worse. Even completely catless you will pass every emissions test unless your car is smog tested. (which may very well be the case in CA) Catless you'll fail the smog test, with one . . . who knows. Best you ask some tuned LGT owners in the state. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-WDC Spec B Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 ^ what he said. Also if you dont wanna do the work yourself http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2843287#post2843287 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exsterminator Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 Thanks for all replies. Assuming I went stage 2 with only an ECU reflash and gutting a cat or two, will my stock parts be able to handle all the extra power at the wheels? Will I get the same longevity out of the stock parts or will they wear quicker? Ought I to consider improving some of the stock parts? I ask because it seems in my case, I can go to stage 2 for the same cost as stage 1: tactrix cable and Infmaous e-tune. Sounds too good to be true . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F-WDC Spec B Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 JB weld the endtanks. stage 2 boost pressure will cause them to blow. everything else will be fine. you can slowly start improving your suspension too. ie sways you can also start looking for a catback if you want louder boxer rumble. you can look into brakes. you need to stop the extra power. better pads are very important. but you can do that when its needed. or you can do an LGT brake swap but still get better pads. Most would recommend Hawk HPSs. i agree. or even a BBK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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