jamato998 Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 whats up guys? ok so i have had a problem with my car stalling out for the past couple weeks. no its not my driving! once the car is warm and its sitting in neutral for at a traffic light for example the idle is all funky and the car ends up stalling out on its own. i talked to my buddy who is a mechanic n he said idle air control and throttle body is most likely the problem. my mods are turboback exhaust, intake, hks bov, and cobb accessport stage 2 flash. any ideas or suggestions would be very helpful! if you are in the penn state hazleton area and u can come and take a look at it for me that would be very helpful as well! thanks everyone joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeblow Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 Is it a full bov? You need a some sort of recirc to prevent the car from stalling out. Go for a 50/50 valve instead of a full blow to atmosphere. It's cool; I'm with the band Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boosten-n-bluntin Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 - how does the car idle? is it ruff? +1 on the bov. the hks is a full bov Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamato998 Posted February 6, 2010 Author Share Posted February 6, 2010 yeah i had my buddy whos a mechanic check my mass air flow sensor n its all good to go. the car idles rough yes and it sputters to stall out. its a full bov Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamato998 Posted February 6, 2010 Author Share Posted February 6, 2010 when i installed the BOV the car was working perfectly and then i retuned it to stage 2 it got all funky on me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boosten-n-bluntin Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 by my understanding a full bov will cause your car to run leaner. witch your ots cobb map isn't tuning for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamato998 Posted February 6, 2010 Author Share Posted February 6, 2010 so what are you saying exactly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boosten-n-bluntin Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 put ur stock one back on and see how she runs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
underpowerd Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 bov (regardless of atmo/recirc) shouldn't be affecting your idle, unless it's leaking vac. if it's mechanical, i'd bet most likely an air leak, bad injector, or bad plug/coil. iirc, fairly certain 4th gen lgts do not have an IAC valve. are you able to read any codes, even via AP? you said this began with the reflash; consequently you might want to try the previous tune again to rule out mechanical issues. best luck with the fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsme Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 Did you just flash your car? If you did that could be the problem. It takes a while sometime for the drive by wire to get the idle right. When I flash or reset my ECU can take up to 300 mi before it to goes back to normal. Everytime I get off the gas the car stumbles. Some time it shuts off. I even log the car and brought my Idle up to 1000 rpms(I use opensource tuning) and nothing help. It just took time to learn. Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CTSubiefan Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 I had probs with Cobb Stage 1 map stalling out as I came to a stop light. RPM would drop and she would occasionally stall out on me. This only occurred with cold weather driving. I fixed it (after reading a boatload of threads here) by upping the idle RPM (+100) via the AP. No BOV on my setup. It's an easy thing to try out. I hope this helps, I know how frustrating it is. Good Luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itsme Posted February 6, 2010 Share Posted February 6, 2010 One other thing we found. After you flash the car turn the ignition on don't start and let the car sit like that for about 2 minutes. You wil hear the fuel pump. Then turn the car off. Then start it. That help to reduce the stumble when you start. Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackfang Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 The OE BPV works pretty darn good. Not sure why you have a BOV anyways as they can lead to other issues(leaning and other sorts) and really good for just making noise. OP any updates to itsme's questions?Reflash's will affect the engines behavior so to say. [SIZE=1][URL="http://public.fotki.com/blackfang/"]Pics[/URL] [B]08 KawasakiZZR 600- exhaust and other mods 98 Camaro Z/28 HT- some mods......street/strip car 07 Legacy 2.5i- SPT exhaust...daily driver[/B][/SIZE] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamato998 Posted February 8, 2010 Author Share Posted February 8, 2010 yeah im gunna throw the stock valve back on and flash it back to stock and see what happens thanks for the input i will let everyone know what happens! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
schwinn Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 Not completely on-topic, but with your list of mods, I wouldn't run a stock tune, nor the OTS Cobb tune... intake changes and other mods pretty much require a custom tune, otherwise you might be damaging the motor... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrmako Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 I agree with Schwinn. And it sounds like it's too lean. Take it to someone you trust and have them do the tune for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.