mrmako

Currently own a 2017 Outback. Nice car, the wife uses it and it does have good room inside. Think of it more as a wagon than an SUV and you'll be alright.

Honestly, I think the EZ30 was a great engine and in very basic form it was at 256HP. A slightly more stout design could easily run at 350. Heck, isn't the dude from Finland with a supercharger on here? I forget.

Well, I live in Germany, so $8 to ship it overseas makes the price very attractive. And I saw the $2 difference, WTF?

I wound up getting it from RockAuto. $104 and $102, fully loaded. And shipping is only $8 so it works for me.

UPDATE: Jegs just changed the price to $138 each, and I hadn't even checked out yet. F'er's.

I just had my car inspected today and the guy told me the bushings were starting to go, so I saw this thread looking for a how to do but got some great pricing information. Jess.com has them for $95 each with free shipping: Shopping Cart Control Arm and Ball Joint Assembly 2005-2009 Subaru Legacy 2005-2009 Subaru Outback Part Number # 662-CMS80182 This item is expected to ship 01/12/16. $95.99 Control Arm and Ball Joint Assembly 2005-2009 Subaru Legacy 2005-2009 Subaru Outback Part Number # 662-CMS80181 This item is expected to ship 01/12/16. $95.99 I'll scour the 4th Gen area and find the how to.

I did use a zip tie for one side, as I left the axle on so the room was tough to work in. So next time I will pull both fronts and re seal the boots. I think re-greasing would also be wise. It's not like I have a lot of mileage on the car (53K Km over 8 years), but cleaning out the joints and fresh grease will make it last longer.

Very little has leaked, but the passenger side grease seems a bit thin, so I think a reboot is in order. The driver side is seeping very, very little. So if I am under there, I may as well do both.

After being under the car this weekend, I can only say this applies to my 3.0R: Who the !@#$ though this would be a good idea without removing the half shaft? Heh. Really, the outers were both fine, it was both inners (not 1) that were leaking a little. No tears. I left the shafts in place, which meant working between the cats with little room to do the work. I could not re-band the boot, but I used a really good tie wrap (very wide and strong. It should hold until I can figure out the next move. So I am pondering ordering two new boot kits and rebuilding or getting two new half shafts. Hmmm.... Is the aggravation worth the $50-100 saved? And if the half shaft does not fit then what? I must mail order (2 weeks), then if it does not work, pay to ship it back. Damn. These Germans are just so expensive for parts/service.

I ordered the kit, so it should be here late next week. However, I will get my first close look at it this weekend. If the clamp is loose only, I'll inspect, re-grease, then camp it down. The nearest Autozone for me is about 4700 miles away. Shipping heavy things to Germany is expensive. I'll try the inspect/reboot option first. I do have access to a full garage with lift bays and air tools, so that makes it a lot easier.

Guys, I read all 33 plus pages, but my car is a bit different. It's a 3.0R JDM spec B (5EAT), and it is an EZ30 engine, the same as the USDM. So armed with that knowledge, here's the situation: The passenger side outer boot has a small leak (very fresh grease). So I think I caught it just at the start. The part listing for what I think I need is this: Non-OEM CV Axel Shaft OEM CV Axel from Subarupartsforyou.com Or should I just reboot it? Beck Arnley CV Boot Kit I hate the thought of going to a dealer here in Germany for a JDM car. But I do have access to a lift and proper tools.

Love the thought behind this. Love being different. Subscribed. Have you talked to Tomcat? He has a H6 3.6, but may be able to offer some high HP advice? I was too lazy to read the whole thread, so if you are just shoot me.

For normal to spirited driving, the OEM pads should be just fine. As long as you are putting new pads/rotors, you may as well have them flush your brake fluid and give you new. That will help pedal feel a lot.

What I would do is get a good set of pads that are non-OEM (Akebono, Hawk HPS, etc...), then before putting them on, have your front rotors turned. If they have a lot of metal left, this should result in a nice, flat, rotor. Then follow the instructions with the pads for the "nbedding process and you'll be all set. I had warping issues in Europe, where 125 mph to 60 mph slow downs will heat op the rotors a bit. I had a Volvo V70, and I warped the OEM brembo rotors after only 10,000 miles. Once I replaced them with Power Stop rotors, and matching pads, all was well. Just my experience.

Mobile 1, 10W40 here in the tropics......But it gets down to about 50 in the winter, so a 20 weight was not in the cards. So far, no issues. I'll update this in about 5000 miles (I change every year because all I do is stop and go city driving).

Paint code: DGM = Diamond Grey Metallic I have it on my JDM 2006 3.0R SpecB. I think this hit the USDM in the 08 MY.

I just looked at the harness information on the following link: http://www.geocities.com/svxdc/Legacy-pinout.htm It is an exact match for my JDM 2006 radio harness, which is the same design as the 2007 MY and up (WMA/MP3 6CD changer). This is a great start for anyone that is rewiring their audio.

Nice write up. I can't read my Japanese manual, so this helps a lot.