gathermewool Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 What: Higher frequency vibration that shakes the car. In my mind, a low frequency vibration would be if a cylinder were missing or if the car were running roughly. This is not that. When: 1. Fully stopped, regardless of whether my foot is on the brake or not. 2. Acceleration at greater than granny-style or accelerating uphill between 2-3k RPM. I've noticed this both in second and third gear. Recent Maintenance: 1. Both CV shafts replaced with new within the last 3 months. Replaced the driver-side CV shaft again last month thinking that was the issue. No change. 2 Plugs changed out from NGK plat to NGK Cu along with new wires 6 months before the vibration started occuring. I pulled them last week and they looked perfect, no fouling and the gap was spot on at .04 3. Fuel pump replaced in the freezing freaking cold last night in my parking lot. The strainer is new and the filter was replaced as well. The death rattle coming from the pump is gone, but the vibration remains. 4. Tranny fluid drained and filled a few times in the past 40k. The latest was with 6 qts of Amsoil ATF 1.5 years ago. Fluid looks great, and is at proper level. What I've noticed: 1. Tranny mount and passenger side motor mount both look good - probably not the original. The driver-side is old-looking and dirty, but seems sound - no cracks or bulging, and it feels as pliable as the newer looking passenger-side mount. 2. The vibration issue isn't consistent. It SEEMS that it's MUCH better after driving around for a while, when the tranny has come up to temp. My commute is 5 miles to work and, while the coolant just gets up to temp, I'm guessing the tranny hasn't. The bad when I leave for work and slightly better, but still very noticeable when i get to work. When I drive around town running errands it seems to subside even more. 3. My freaking front right caliper is leaking fluid past the piston Life time warranty on that one, though! What I've found on the interwebs: 1. Most people who had something similar had their mounts, plugs, wires and coil pack replaced, none of which fixed the issue. 2. No one come back when they've either given up or solved the problem! Every one asks for a solution, and while knowing what does NOT work is good, knowing how you fixed it back n 2007 is probably better. I promise to update this if I figure out the issue. '15 FB25 Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles) RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 is it somthing you just feel, or do you hear a corresponding noise as well? if its occuring when you are stopped, then it has nothing to do with the trans, axles, diffs, tires or wheel bearings. so you can rule all those out. the onlything thats moving is the engine and accessories when you are stopped. so what you can do is first take your accessory belts off, you will loses you alternator and power steering, but you will be able to drive the car to see if the noise is still there. if it is, then it could be an enigne bearing, oil or water pump, or somthing related to the tq converter impeller/turbine since the imput side spins with the flex plate(the flywheel on a autotrans). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gathermewool Posted February 4, 2010 Author Share Posted February 4, 2010 It's a vibration I feel. The only noise is something in the dash making noise due to the vibration. I'll remove the accessory belt tomorrow and see what happens. The vibration is worse when the car has been sitting and cold. When cold, the engine is at a higher idle, in-gear RPM (750+) than when it's warm (650-660), but the vibration is still there after the car has warmed and the idle has lowered to normal. Giving a little gas with the brake still applied doesn't change much. I forgot to mention that I'm also have an issue with frayed wiring at the alternator connector, which seems to be causing sporadic low charge Voltage. I was readin as low as 12.2 at idle and 13.5-9 at speed. After jiggling the wire and spraying some electrical parts cleaner I've been getting ~13.5 at idle and 13.9 while driving, which is still lower than normal. '15 FB25 Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles) RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 also check the pitch stop for damage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gathermewool Posted February 4, 2010 Author Share Posted February 4, 2010 I'll make sure to check again, but the last time I remember looking at it there was nothing that stood out. What would a failed pitch stop look like? Obvious? '15 FB25 Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles) RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitetiger Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 yes, obvious. broken or loose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gathermewool Posted February 5, 2010 Author Share Posted February 5, 2010 I was over and under the car; nothing obvious...Well, I did pull each wire, one at a time, from the coil pack. Each arced from the coil innards to the wire normally; however, number 4 was arcing from the outside a small amounts as well. I didn't want to sit there and arc jump all day, so I didn't get a great view of it, but it was definitely noticeable. Upon closer inspection (with the car off) I noticed a hairline scratch in the coil pack. I put a little pressure on that edge, but the crack didn't expand or do anything. Resistance from 1-2, 3-4 both read 22kohm secondary. Primary were all around an ohm. I did replace my leaky caliper, though! Yay for small victories... '15 FB25 Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles) RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gathermewool Posted February 5, 2010 Author Share Posted February 5, 2010 Checked the coil this morning in the dark, before work; no arc. I pulled off all of the belts and ran the engine yesterday, as well; no change. One thing I did notice was the alternator bearing had a bit of a squeak that seemed to coincide with the slight wobble in the pulley/shaft. I don't notice a lot of noise while running, but it's there. Any advice? I'm still having low voltage issues, but I'm attributing that to the insulation being gone from the wire to the alternator connector. Any ideas how to fix this? '15 FB25 Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles) RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gathermewool Posted February 6, 2010 Author Share Posted February 6, 2010 Found this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2489&highlight=vibration I've got another shaft on order from AA to replace the passenger side. If this doesn't fix it I'll chalk it up to other-than-OEM replacements being the culprit, and just live with it...for a while, at least I'll report back whether the replacement changes anything. '15 FB25 Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles) RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05bikemobile Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 My 2005 does this also. Vibration in gear. Neutral makes it stop. I have also felt it change on driveways, uphill, downhill. It is more pronounced when its cold outside due to the engine running a bit rougher overall. Better after a long drive on the highway. The engine loves 100% gas so when I can find it the idle vibration is almost gone due to the smoother idle. I bought my car at 39k certifed used with a clean accident history. So no reason that an axle has been replaced. Both front and rear axles look to have the same patina of gravel, snow, dirt and miles. Rears are the same. Its possible but doesnt seem likely. Is there a way to isolate this axle issue to be 100% sure that is the problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gathermewool Posted February 8, 2010 Author Share Posted February 8, 2010 Regardless of some of my findings online, it being the brand new CV shafts is pretty hard to swallow. I can understand a different-than-stock length being an issue, and I can believe that this could possibly cause an idle vibration, but, to me, this would only be exacerbated under load while driving. In other words, if it's causing a vibration at idle under idle load, wouldn't it always create some vibration while driving under a specific load condition. I do have vibration/shuddering in 2nd and 3rd gear, but when I drove aggressively in 4th it was as smooth as a brand new car. Does the rotational force some what dampen the vibration, maybe? I'm not sure of a way to isolate the axle other than to put in two OEM axles - now back with GSP as cores. I've only replaced the passenger-side axle once with a new GSP axle. I'll be replacing this one again with another new GSP tomorrow or the next day. If it's a bad axle I'll know. If it's an inherent flaw with aftermarket axles, I don't expect much to change. Here's hoping... Again, aside from a small amount of cold-start idle missing, the car runs great. When I'm up at temp and on the highway, she drives like a dream; no missing, studdering, loss of power. For this reason I'm not eager to soon put out another load of money for higher tier axles unless I can prove undoubtedly that it's the cause. If you can think of a way to isolate the axles let me know. I don't want to spend money, but time spent trouble shooting is actually kind of fun : ) '15 FB25 Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles) RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gathermewool Posted February 12, 2010 Author Share Posted February 12, 2010 I replaced the passenger-side drive shaft yesterday; vibration hasn't changed. : ( Either there's an inherent design issue between Subies and new GSP CV shafts or something else coincidentally began vibrating very soon after replacing the CV shafts the first time. Back to the drawing board... '15 FB25 Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles) RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98JDMLegacyLimited Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 OK I just installed an JDM EJ25 engine and I have the same problems the car runs great but shakes or vibrates when I come to a stop, if I put in park the car stops shaking/vibrating. Tomorrow my plan of attack is to replace all vacuum lines take of the EGR and IAC valve and clean the hell out of them and maybe do the same to the throttle body, I will let you guys know the results. Is it posible that the problem is the tranny, seems like everyone is focused on the axles? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98LGTLover Posted February 13, 2010 Share Posted February 13, 2010 LegacyLimited, my car does the same thing! When I am stopped with my foot on the brake and the car is in drive it shakes so bad that I can hear the change in those spaces in the center console rattling and I have the change in there really tight. I expected vibrations from a 4 cylinder but not like this! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gathermewool Posted February 13, 2010 Author Share Posted February 13, 2010 OK I just installed an JDM EJ25 engine and I have the same problems the car runs great but shakes or vibrates when I come to a stop, if I put in park the car stops shaking/vibrating. Tomorrow my plan of attack is to replace all vacuum lines take of the EGR and IAC valve and clean the hell out of them and maybe do the same to the throttle body, I will let you guys know the results. Is it posible that the problem is the tranny, seems like everyone is focused on the axles? It could very well be the tranny. I jumped on the axle first, since the problem surfaced almost immediately after replacing them. Let us know what you find. If you can, try to do one at a time so we know, if any, changed something. '15 FB25 Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles) RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98JDMLegacyLimited Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 ok replacing all the vacuum lines and cleaning the hell out of the IAC AND EGR did not fix the problem!!!! however while changing the vacuum hoses I noticed my CV boot was ripped and grease was everywere, I also noticed the vibration is greatly reduced when I turn the steering wheel every so slightly while at a stop with it in gear? So maybe it is the Axle, I will be replacing the Axle today and will update. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gathermewool Posted February 16, 2010 Author Share Posted February 16, 2010 ok replacing all the vacuum lines and cleaning the hell out of the IAC AND EGR did not fix the problem!!!! however while changing the vacuum hoses I noticed my CV boot was ripped and grease was everywere, I also noticed the vibration is greatly reduced when I turn the steering wheel every so slightly while at a stop with it in gear? So maybe it is the Axle, I will be replacing the Axle today and will update. What're you replacing it with? OEM or local parts store special? '15 FB25 Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles) RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blacksus Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 i know i bringing up a dead thread but i been searching and all threads end up like this. has anyone had this problem and fixed it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang70Fastback Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 Have the problem. Have not fixed it, lol. Annoying as HELL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baddog Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 Same here. I think it may be transmission related really. Or maybe Non-OEM axles? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blacksus Posted June 8, 2011 Share Posted June 8, 2011 see you would think its the axles, but with my search not just on this forum (the entire web) it seems as though this isn't just a subaru issue. the exact same problem is reported on many different cars. the only thing that all of them have in common is that they are all Automatic Transmissions. i have tried spark plugs, wires, ATF replacement, all mounts replaced; no luck. my next question is has anyone with this issue replaced their torque converter to see if that was the problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98LGTLover Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 I got a lower mileage tranny put in my car and it doesn't do it hardly at all anymore. There will always be slight vibrations but I'm not feeling it nearly as much as I used to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blacksus Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 the normal vibration can be felt in all cars, but I'm sure everyone who drives can tell the difference in the vibration we are referring too or any vibration that is out of the norm. so in your case you replaced the whole transmission. was it because you had a problem with the transmission already or where you trying to specifically fix the vibration? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted June 9, 2011 Share Posted June 9, 2011 and, did you change the axles in the process? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blacksus Posted June 10, 2011 Share Posted June 10, 2011 and, did you change the axles in the process? i would also like to know that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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