eekay Posted May 6, 2011 Author Share Posted May 6, 2011 Not a problem at all. In fact, it's nice to see that this is still helpful to some people. What you're mentioning as far as the beam pattern that you see when you cover one lamp and the other sounds perfectly correct. If you're still planning on cutting the metal to get the USDM beam pattern, be sure that you get the new cut(s) as close to the center location that the original cuts were and you shouldn't have any problem at all. Luckily, even if you go too high or too low, the projector housing is easily adjustable to make up for any imperfections. So, I think you're in the clear. As far as relaying, neh. I wouldn't even bother. I don't think it's worth the trouble (and rat's nest of wires involved) to do any more good that using the stock setup. Thousands of people have simply swapped out the lights and I've never heard of anyone HAVING to do any relaying. So, it'll be fine. Good luck! My 9.3 cups EJ22 makes me feel like my **** is 2.8 decimeters! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camroncamera Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 1-year BUMP! I finally completed this mod. I baked the lights as directed, but found that there wasn't enough heat on mine to soften the sealant up; however, a heat gun got me the rest of the way there. Instead of painting the plastic chromed reflectors completely black as in this guide, I instead gave them a very light coating of VHT Nightshades spray tint, which I'd had laying around for years. The projector bulb reflectors and high-beam bulb reflectors were left in their factory chrome for maximum road illumination: http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g432/camroncamera/IMG_3283.jpg http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g432/camroncamera/IMG_3285.jpg To convert the shields for Left Hand Drive pattern, I first carefully shaved down the high side of the shield using a Dremel Moto-tool with flex attachment (to get deep into the shield housing) until the edge was as level as I could manage. Before: http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g432/camroncamera/IMG_3295.jpg By shaving the high side, I am maintaining more of the "sweet spot" where the beam is brightest (the added material in the following step will conversely take some of the sweet spot away ). After: http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g432/camroncamera/IMG_3296.jpg http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g432/camroncamera/IMG_3299.jpg I used the foil tape mentioned in one of my earlier posts to add the shielding for LHD pattern conversion. It has incredible adhesion and is easy to fold and trim: http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g432/camroncamera/IMG_3301.jpg http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g432/camroncamera/IMG_3309.jpg http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g432/camroncamera/IMG_3312.jpg http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g432/camroncamera/IMG_3316.jpg http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g432/camroncamera/IMG_3317.jpg After reassembly, I wasn't confident that there was enough sealant in the seams to keep the housings weathertight. I used a pliable 3M tape around the seams to help ensure that they would stay dry inside: http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g432/camroncamera/IMG_3325.jpg http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g432/camroncamera/IMG_3328.jpg http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g432/camroncamera/IMG_3330.jpg Amber corners were removed, but I have amber-colored bulbs. End result: http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g432/camroncamera/IMG_9563.jpg http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g432/camroncamera/IMG_9597.jpg http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g432/camroncamera/IMG_9582.jpg http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g432/camroncamera/IMG_9603.jpg Thanks again eekay, couldn't have done it without your awesome how-to! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eekay Posted May 5, 2012 Author Share Posted May 5, 2012 Thanks! The lights look really good, man. Some great ideas in there. A couple of pictures of the light pattern would be nice if you get a chance. My 9.3 cups EJ22 makes me feel like my **** is 2.8 decimeters! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camroncamera Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 Before (photo taken last year): http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g432/camroncamera/IMG_7365.jpg After (lights not yet aimed to spec, but in the ballpark): http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g432/camroncamera/IMG_3383.jpg Closeup: http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g432/camroncamera/IMG_3384-1.jpg Equal camera exposures, but not necessarily equal vehicle-to-wall distances. Hope I didn't cover up that sweet spot. I did consider not adding any foil to the shaved shields, and simply leaving the beams as a flat line across. I think it's the aim of the lens, more than shield cutoff, that eliminates or creates a hazard for oncoming drivers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eekay Posted May 7, 2012 Author Share Posted May 7, 2012 Looks great! You didn't cover up any of the sweet spot. And leaving it a straight line is perfectly fine as well. You're correct in thinking it's the higher light when mis-aimed that creates the hazard for oncoming traffic. Well done, sir! My 9.3 cups EJ22 makes me feel like my **** is 2.8 decimeters! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted September 26, 2012 Share Posted September 26, 2012 Cool camroncamera! I also used the foil tape for my JDM to USDM conversion problem and have had no problems with my DDM HIDs. I didn't do the black out and I have to say that my cutoff is much sharper. I love the blacked out look when your lights are off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camroncamera Posted September 26, 2012 Share Posted September 26, 2012 Looks terrific! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaeDM413 Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 looking to attempt this on saturday, i hope mine comes out as well as yours did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero1 Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 I'm not terribly fond of baking my brand new JDM lights for this but I can TOTALLY appreciate having the lights configured properly... O.o Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eekay Posted December 3, 2012 Author Share Posted December 3, 2012 looking to attempt this on saturday, i hope mine comes out as well as yours did. Excellent! Let us know how it went. I'm not terribly fond of baking my brand new JDM lights for this but I can TOTALLY appreciate having the lights configured properly... O.o The baking is actually really easy. As long as you don't over-bake them (kinda hard to do if you follow the directions) then it doesn't harm them at all. My 9.3 cups EJ22 makes me feel like my **** is 2.8 decimeters! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero1 Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 The baking is actually really easy. As long as you don't over-bake them (kinda hard to do if you follow the directions) then it doesn't harm them at all. I cleared my USDM headlamps by baking them and went so far as to use extra silicone to seal them afterward. The clear lens is never the same after baking however... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eekay Posted December 4, 2012 Author Share Posted December 4, 2012 Which clear lens are you talking about? What happened to it that made it different? My 9.3 cups EJ22 makes me feel like my **** is 2.8 decimeters! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zero1 Posted December 4, 2012 Share Posted December 4, 2012 Which clear lens are you talking about? What happened to it that made it different? 4th gen lights but this mod would apply to more than just the 2nd gens. My lenses became more susceptible to fogging and spiderwebbed after R and R from the housings. I would LOVE to do this, however, to correct the extreme imbalance in light projection but I no longer have a garage to house the lady and not worry about her being disassembled for extended periods of time :| Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Failbot88 Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 Amazing write up!!! I just ordered my one pieces and am holding up to get the harness. In the mean time I will definitely be doing this!! I had no idea that this needed to be done before. So if I was paying attention, passenger side cutoff just needs to be straight, and drivers side needs to be reversed? Thanks again and I will be buying a harness from you very shortly! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camroncamera Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 Amazing write up!!! I just ordered my one pieces and am holding up to get the harness. In the mean time I will definitely be doing this!! I had no idea that this needed to be done before. So if I was paying attention, passenger side cutoff just needs to be straight, and drivers side needs to be reversed? Thanks again and I will be buying a harness from you very shortly! Left and right really ought to have the same pattern after the mod. The way I did mine was a full pattern reversal on both sides. You already know about the Plug-and-Play JDM Conversion Harnesses, right? http://www.4zero1motorsports.com/product-p/4z1-jdm-h4.htm it's not yet shown on the order page but there are two styles - one for H4 connector (1995 to 1996 or so) and one for 9007 connector (1997 or so to 1999). 1996-1997 seems to be transition years, so the easiest way to confirm which style you need is to inspect your stock headlight harnesses before you order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Failbot88 Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 Left and right really ought to have the same pattern after the mod. The way I did mine was a full pattern reversal on both sides. You already know about the Plug-and-Play JDM Conversion Harnesses, right? http://www.4zero1motorsports.com/product-p/4z1-jdm-h4.htm it's not yet shown on the order page but there are two styles - one for H4 connector (1995 to 1996 or so) and one for 9007 connector (1997 or so to 1999). 1996-1997 seems to be transition years, so the easiest way to confirm which style you need is to inspect your stock headlight harnesses before you order. Yeah, im going to be buying the harness as well. My leggy is a 99 so im fairly sure its 9007 but I will make sure before I place my order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eekay Posted April 9, 2013 Author Share Posted April 9, 2013 Amazing write up!!! I just ordered my one pieces and am holding up to get the harness. In the mean time I will definitely be doing this!! I had no idea that this needed to be done before. So if I was paying attention, passenger side cutoff just needs to be straight, and drivers side needs to be reversed? Thanks again and I will be buying a harness from you very shortly! Great! Both patterns need to be reversed. So, the picture I posted of the foil being reversed is what you need to do to both projector housings. My 9.3 cups EJ22 makes me feel like my **** is 2.8 decimeters! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Failbot88 Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 Great! Both patterns need to be reversed. So, the picture I posted of the foil being reversed is what you need to do to both projector housings. So basically just buy some foil tape or foil, fold a couple of times and then cut into the round shape on bottom and then ___---- driver side ----___ passenger side? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camroncamera Posted April 10, 2013 Share Posted April 10, 2013 So basically just buy some foil tape or foil, fold a couple of times and then cut into the round shape on bottom and then ___---- driver side ----___ passenger side? No, you need to flip-flop the shield pattern on both sides so that you end up with driver's-side and passenger-side shields the SAME (not mirror-image): ___---- driver side ___---- passenger side http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g432/camroncamera/IMG_3317.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Failbot88 Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 No, you need to flip-flop the shield pattern on both sides so that you end up with driver's-side and passenger-side shields the SAME (not mirror-image): ___---- driver side ___---- passenger side http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g432/camroncamera/IMG_3317.jpg thanks for clearing that up. What did you use to keep the tape on? I think i read jb weld? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eekay Posted April 11, 2013 Author Share Posted April 11, 2013 I used JB Weld on mine but I also used regular foil. Some of the others used foil tape and simply taped it on. Either way works. My 9.3 cups EJ22 makes me feel like my **** is 2.8 decimeters! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camroncamera Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 thanks for clearing that up. What did you use to keep the tape on? I think i read jb weld? I think eekay used JB weld and aluminum strips, so that is one way to do it. I used foil aluminum tape that has its own very strong-bonding adhesive after peeling the liner off. There are some versions out there that are specifically heat-resistant to a couple hundred degrees F., you could look for some of that kind. Here is what I had laying around at the time: http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g432/camroncamera/IMG_3301.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevenva Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 Excellent write up. Instead of removing the 1/16" raised portion and adding 1/16 tape to the opposing side, could you remove twice the amount (1/8"), avoiding the tape completely. You could still adjust the height after installing to compensate RIP 96 Legacy 2.2 4EAT lost reverse @ 374,000 miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camroncamera Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 Excellent write up. Instead of removing the 1/16" raised portion and adding 1/16 tape to the opposing side, could you remove twice the amount (1/8"), avoiding the tape completely. You could still adjust the height after installing to compensate Yes, if you have a way to get tooling down in the shields, that would be one approach. There is not a lot of room to work due to the side walls of the shields. It was easier for me to simply shave off the rise so that the entire shield edge was relatively flat, and then tape the opposite edge. Maybe a computerized milling machine could do it perfectly, though? One thing about changing the overall height of the shield cutoff like that, however, is that it would change the height relationship between the light source (the bulb) and the optical center of the projector lens. This *may* have a negative impact with regards to the aim of optical "sweet spot" and its chance to cause stray light to glare into oncoming traffic. I, for one, would love to see some experiments comparing the various approaches that could be undertaken: 1. Unmodified JDM Projectors - carefully aimed to not glare into oncoming traffic (control). 2. Modifed JDM Projectors - no material cut from metals shields; only foil tape or metal shims applied to make the low part of the shield become the high part. 3. Modifed JDM Projectors - the rise is carefully shaved flat from the metal shield, and foil or shim is added to create a rise on the opposite half. 4. Modifed JDM Projectors - the cutoff pattern is reversed by cutting the rise down by twice its natural height, leaving the other half unmodified. 5. A custom-machined USDM shield component created from all-new material. Will you be able to try your method out and report back? It would be great to have another data point to add to this thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevenva Posted June 10, 2013 Share Posted June 10, 2013 If I get a pair I would do my idea (#4) and report my findings. Worse case scenario is I would have to resort to using tape in a bulbs housing. RIP 96 Legacy 2.2 4EAT lost reverse @ 374,000 miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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