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What tools do you need for a timing belt change?


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Aight guys,

So I did my research and have a bunch of threads printed out about HOW TO CHANGE A TIMING BELT. I have the dealer PDF manual, some other manual print outs, and some thread posts that are detailed. Im looking to change all pulleys, belt, water pump, cam seals, crank seal, and timing cover seal all in one weekend. I want to be as fully prepared as possible. Soo....

 

Can you guys shoot up some lists of what custom tools, fabricated tools, rented tools, or any other tools you used to make the job easier and possible.

 

Initial thoughts:

- Seal puller

- Cam pulley puller

(where do I get one? what does it look like)

- A new breaker bar with torque ratings

- sockets 19mm - 24mm (along with a basic socket set)

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That's pretty much the list for special tools. Seal puller and cam sprocket puller/holder tool should be rentable at Advance auto and possibly even Autozone.

Don't forget RTV for the oil pump. I recommend using the Permatex Ultra Grey.

 

I'm trying to think of some of the other things I use. I know a Dentist's mirror for locating the bolts of the timing cover, a lot of PB Blaster, some large screwdrivers, a hammer...it's not necessary, but you never know, right?

 

Also, I press in my new seals with deep well sockets the same OD of the seals, so they seat nicely. That's pretty much the only way to do it to ensure they get all the way in.

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I found that the cam sprockets weren't hard to remove once you had gotten the bolt out. That was the tricky part though... the bolts took a 10mm hex key and required a ton of torque to remove. It is very easy to accidentally turn the camshaft and bend the valves. I'm not sure if this is the same for the older Legacy engines.

 

Best picture I have for you at the moment:

http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/7146/img7658c.jpg

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Well that's definitely not a good thing. Any tips on avoiding bending my valvues? Just need to make sure you have them locked down tight enough I guess. I see most people just take a small square metal plate and drill four holes in it. Then bolt the top and bottom cams together right?

 

When you say "hex key" you mean the star shaped looking allen wrenches correct. Sorry for the lame terms. Your not just talking about a simple allen wrench?

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In my service manual there is a procedure that outlines what position the engine must be in when the belt is removed or installed. As part of the procedure one head has both cams in "zero-lift" position where there is no risk of damage, but on the driver side head both cams must be rotated in a certain direction to open the valves and avoid collision. That is where the metal plate would come in handy.

 

hex key = allen wrench. On my car it was a 10mm but the service instructions showed a regular hex bolt. It could be different between model years.

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