rob Posted December 19, 2009 Share Posted December 19, 2009 See, I'm worried about breaking them... Being Ape-ish, I have a LONG history of breaking bolts much larger than flywheel bolts. Impacts tend to not break bolts or strip if seated properly. Damn sure don't want to hand to drill anything on my back though! I have to have the bit this week, so will try and find it local. If I can't find it tomorrow, guess I'll see about overnighting it. You guys using breaker bars have any issue finding a way to hold the flywheel while removing them, or torquing them? I'm in the middle of this right now; new flywheel and clutch are on, just fighting (and losing) to get the tranny back on. For the flywheel bolts, they are only torqued to 50ish ft pounds, so was no problem to breaking them loose by hand. I just put a breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt and that kept the flywheel from turning. -Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted December 19, 2009 Author Share Posted December 19, 2009 Persevere. There's no magic to it - you just have to get the trans and engine lined up perfectly before they'll go together. Keep an eye on the turbo outlet housing - if it touches the bellhousing it'll hang up. Don't forget you may have to try turning the flywheel a couple of degrees in case the splines aren't matching up. And I hope you remembered to use a clutch alignment tool. I feel your pain! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted December 20, 2009 Share Posted December 20, 2009 Persevere. There's no magic to it - you just have to get the trans and engine lined up perfectly before they'll go together. Keep an eye on the turbo outlet housing - if it touches the bellhousing it'll hang up. Don't forget you may have to try turning the flywheel a couple of degrees in case the splines aren't matching up. And I hope you remembered to use a clutch alignment tool. I feel your pain! I got it mostly on now. The snout is in the clutch disk and it's right at the alignment dowls. The final trick was removing the oil filter cover plate and putting a jack on the exhaust manifold in order to tilt the engine back. I finally realized no matter how I tilted and adjusted the tranny jack, there was no way to get the rear of the tranny high enough to have it slide in straight. Comparing the engine forward method from my impreza and this time with the tranny down, I think I'll stick with the engine fwd method. It's just seems much easier lining things up with a hanging engine than with a raised tranny. I panicked slightly with the alignment tool. I knew where it was in the toolbox, but when it came time for the job, it turned out to be the on for my Toyota, DOH! After some mad scrambling, I found the sube one at the bottom of one my parts crates . I'll post up picks of my 93k '05 parts compared to the '07 parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeus Posted December 20, 2009 Share Posted December 20, 2009 Well, I'll be trying the "trans to the back" method in the morning... hope it will go well enough. We'll see. On a silly note, is there a central jack point for the front of these cars? One thing I love about the Evo is the front goes up from right under center behind the bumper. Right below the main motor torque mount. On the Suby, wow, wide expanses of nothing, and my freakin' good jack just gave up the ghost. So I now only have a 17.5" Harbor Freight 3 ton (feels like 3 tons) steel floor jack, and a scissor tranny jack to work with. Well, I could break out the engine hoist too, but will try not too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted December 20, 2009 Author Share Posted December 20, 2009 I jacked up the front of the car using two identical floor jacks under the control arm rear mount plate, two pumps per side until the car was high enough to get jackstands under the frame rails. The trans subframe may be a good central point but the car is too low to reach that far in with a jack. At least not with any of my jacks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted December 20, 2009 Share Posted December 20, 2009 Yep, at the engine cross member just at where the undercovers end. As mentioned you don't have to take the axles out. A couple of pointers as they are fresh in my mind; 1) If you drain the tranny fluid into an open pan, get it into a sealed container right away. Don't be lazy like me and just move it around the garage out of the way. Every single thing that could possibly fall into the pan will fall into the pan and will forever smell like ass.....ask me how I know. 2) Don't be a dumbass and forget to unplug vacuum hose from the BPV (even the sube manual overlooks this step). The nipple will break off. I have the pleasure of repairing mine after I get all the clutch business finished. 3) Don't put up with crap in your way, just remove them. The dogbone and the IC bracket come to mind. 4) Before unbolting any of the tranny bolts or the dogbone, remove the tranny crossmemters AND the mount from the tranny housing. This make is a lot easier to position the tranny and to remove the shifter rods. 5) You will need to find a way to tilt the engine back. I didn't want to break out the engine hoist so putting a jack under the headers did the trick. 6) practice your swear words. After a couple hours you will get tired of the repeating the same ones and some creativity here will help you pass the hours as you lay on your back bench pressing the tranny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeus Posted December 20, 2009 Share Posted December 20, 2009 Thanks Scruit, but not an option for me now (with one dead jack) on a Sunday morning... was hoping there was some sort of center member on this thing somewhere under there. That's what I get for sticking to Evo's (work/customers) since 03'. Other than fluid changes, and brake work, the LGT has solely served the Wife as the daily driver/kid hauler. It literally got brakes/lines the first week cause they sucked so bad. Then a poly shifter bushing for the same reason. Last, was hooked up with a known DSM/Suby tuner so it got a flash tune along with the resonator box removed. First time I'm opening anything up on it til now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeus Posted December 20, 2009 Share Posted December 20, 2009 Yep, at the engine cross member just at where the undercovers end. As mentioned you don't have to take the axles out. A couple of pointers as they are fresh in my mind; 1) If you drain the tranny fluid into an open pan, get it into a sealed container right away. Don't be lazy like me and just move it around the garage out of the way. Every single thing that could possibly fall into the pan will fall into the pan and will forever smell like ass.....ask me how I know. So at the cross member where the undercover ends I can jack the car? As to #1... still laughing my ass off Been there, done that LOL! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted December 20, 2009 Share Posted December 20, 2009 So at the cross member where the undercover ends I can jack the car? As to #1... still laughing my ass off Been there, done that LOL! Yep. As long as your jack can reach far enough back. I saw a picture of it on this forum somewhere, but now can't find it.. No joke, in that damn gooey mess I lost a couple bolts, a wrench, a few printed pages of the manual, and the sleeve of my coveralls (which then dripped on my farking shoe!) ARRG! The best part is, I still haven't drained it because I *know* it won't happen again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted December 21, 2009 Share Posted December 21, 2009 A couple more tips; - Don't forget to undo the grounding wire that goes from the pitch stop frame mount down to the transmission case. I forgot and broke the end off the connector. Not a big deal to fix, but I would have preferred one less hassle. -Take extra care not to pull the shifter arm down out of it's rubber boot. If you do, you have to take out the shifter trim to reinstall it. Again, just an extra damn hassle that can be avoided. -Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeus Posted December 21, 2009 Share Posted December 21, 2009 LMFAO! Guess what little wire got pulled loose... oh well, solder and a small torch and all was good. All in all it went well... believe it or not took more time to get the trans off the motor than stabbing it back in. Only spent about 15 mins from the floor to putting the bolts in. Was just time consuming to say the least. Bout 9-10 hours total including wrangling the "help". My boys did a decent job helping out though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted December 21, 2009 Author Share Posted December 21, 2009 Followup: Since the clutch work I've been hearing a low end rattle under load at 4.5k rpm. I replaced the gaskets either end of the downpipe (took 1.5 hours) and the car is back to normal now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Posted December 22, 2009 Share Posted December 22, 2009 Crap, one more suggestion. If you choose to remove the connector bracket that lives under the IC, be careful moving it around. Apparently I was a bit rough with it and somehow ended up snapping the wire off the knock sensor connector which is mounted on the backside of said bracket. I didn't realize it until I started the car for the first time and had a CEL in light glowing back at me. This one was a PITA to fix. -Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ultimakf7 Posted January 4, 2010 Share Posted January 4, 2010 Scruit, how close to the ground did you have your tranny? and how much more clearance would you need to get the tranny out completely? I'm curoius to know how tall this bell housing is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruit Posted January 5, 2010 Author Share Posted January 5, 2010 Not sure how low your jack will let you lower your tranny. If you could get the tranny on the floor then having the car on 24" jackstands should do it. Problem is that once teh tranny is on the floor then how do you get it back on the jack for putting it back in? If you want it completely out then you can use an engine hoist through the engine bay (between the engine and firewall) to lower the front of the trans down but you'd need a jack on the back fo the trans too as it extends too far back to balance for the engine hoist (rear is heavy too, so lift/drop would have to be co-ordinated) onto a sheet of plywood then pull the plywood out from under the car. If you're short of space then you *may* be able to remove one of the control arms and pass it out through the wheel arch. Don't be tempted to raise the front of the car even further with an engine hoist while the back is on jackstands. the combination of solid footing / wheels is VERY unpredictable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ultimakf7 Posted January 5, 2010 Share Posted January 5, 2010 Ah, ok. I picked up this not too long ago.. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=4075 Hopefully it's worth the investment. I currently have my Miata 20" on jack stands waiting for a clutch upgrade, and the Legacy's clutch will have to wait till spring/summer. That should keep me busy for awhile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted January 6, 2010 Share Posted January 6, 2010 Good thread... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mccorry Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 Just watched your videos, Scruit.... thanks for the contribution!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ultimakf7 Posted January 7, 2010 Share Posted January 7, 2010 I agree.. great videos. Not quite step-by-step, but it'll definately help me in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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